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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Winter primer

Suffering from welding withdrawl since I finished all the bodywork on my Frogeye, I now want to start localised repairs on the other car. The problem is, no indoor space. So once a piece has been welded that bit needs to be primed in a way that will protect it from rusting over a wet winter.

Will a 2 pack epoxy primer, brush painted, achieve this? Alternatively I have 3/4 of a tin of red Bondaprimer which is good stuff but I dont know if it is waterproof.
GuyW

Guy, AIUI, epoxy primer is waterproof so you should be able to leave the car outside with painted over repairs. But, of course, it would be useful to read other opinions, especially from someone who's done this (I haven't).
Bill Bretherton

Years ago when I bought my 'B' I ran it for nearly a year with what was then called 'Finnigans No1 Brown Velvet' antirust/primer on the bonnet and boot - the original paint having weathered so badly with rust coming through everywhere, i totally stripped and painted it.
It stood up very well until I rebuilt the car.
However its now called Hammerite No 1, but I think they have altered the product to comply with all the new rules so not sure if its still any good.

I think for priming patches I would give this a try :-

https://www.bilthamber.com/paints-and-coatings/electrox

A friend is using it on his resto - a tin is incredibly heavy - so much solids in it and I am very impressed with all their products I have used.
Maybe just check overcoating compatibility.
richard b

Thanks Richard. I too like the Bilt Hamber products. I actually have a can of that Electrox as I use it as a weld through primer. It's good for that but I am not sure it would act as sufficient of a waterproof barrier to prevent the underlying steel from rusting. I think that the epoxy resin stuff will be better standing up to Cumbrian winter rain! About 75" a year where I am.
GuyW

I have a similar product Teamac zinc rich primer (not aerosol) from a local farm supply shop and learned the hard way to not leave it standing for too long as the zinc settles out. I came to use it and found a dense zinc powder deposit at the bottom of the tin and thought it might end in tears trying to power stir a virtually full tin so spent about an hour stirring by hand to get it back to a decent mix before using it. These days I invert the tin about once a week so next time I come to use it it should be OK.
David Billington

Different name, but sounds like the stuff I painted the inside of my sills and box sections with. Solid zinc and very heavy. Should keep the C of G nice and low on this car!
GuyW

Bonda primer(bp) can stand up against water. I know because I had an rwa midget for a while that had extensive coverage of bp on every external surface, after a fair bit of welding. It was used daily, and kept on my drive outside because there was only room for one in the garage. A couple of winters like that, and it hadn't rusted through the bp when it was sold. But I was able to paint the stuff on in the warmer weather, when I knew it was able to fully cure, and I could give it 2 coats. That said, I'm about to put my spare old banger on the drive, and that has freshly welded sections painted recently in bp. I'm as certain as I can be it won't rust.

A lot of boat supply shops sell bp. They must know something too.
anamnesis

Different nane, but sounds like the stuff I painted the inside of my sills and box sections with. Solid zinc and very heavy. Should keep the C of G nice and low on this car!
GuyW

? ! Where did that come from?

I might try an experiment, since I have the red Bonda Prima anyway and try both that and some epoxy resin primer. I know that ordinary primer doesn't hack it. I learnt that in about 1972!
GuyW

Guy
Are you sure youhave the same stuff as this one is the 'weld thru'

https://www.bilthamber.com/paints-and-coatings/etchweld
richard b

Works well as a weld through primer, but I think it is water permeable, or at least not sufficiently waterproof without a covering.


GuyW

The other possibility is just to weld, prime and then use up my collection of random rattle can colours to overcoat the area. Could do with a clear out!
GuyW

I ran my midget with body sections in epoxy primer for a year in various weathers and it was fine.

Hammerite is another quick and easy solution for those areas you arent going to paint.
Chris Madge

Guy
I wonder if its just that a spray can type paint is just thinner ?
The stuff my mate has is incredibly heavy with the amount of zinc in it but it is in a tin - not spray and the coat thickness is good.

Their data sheet is impressive :-

http://www.bilthamber.com/media/downloads/electrox.pdf

Next time I order I will get a tin and experiment as I could do with a replacement for the old No1.

I used to use Bondaprimer but I had problems with topcoat reactions, but it was OK on the old boat engine !
richard b

This thread was discussed between 01/11/2020 and 02/11/2020

MG Midget and Sprite Technical index

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