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MG Midget and Sprite Technical - Witch tubular manifold?
I am looking for a tubular manifold. I own a 948 cc engine it is totally standard (with 123 ignition and K&N filters). The reason that I want a tubular manifold are the speed hums here in Holland. They crack manifolds; I just installed my third standard manifold in 7 years. I realize that it will take a lot of time to dial in the car and every modification makes a difference. When I put on the tubular exhaust I expect to have to go in and modify the H1 carb set and perhaps retime the 123 ignition. Is the small bore Maniflow the one to go for, the cheaper Moss one, or Peter May Maniflow LCB exhaust manifold (roadgoing) Flip |
Flip Brühl 948 frog 59 |
flip, Im guessing the pipes are hitting the ground when speeding over the bumps... They used to make a "Pass thur" exhauste...(Not the proper term) ... But the EX tube ran into, thur, and out the rear end of the transmission tunnel... they are rare to find, ive only seen one once on ebay ... but Id think it could be re-made by hand... I think it was used mostly in race cars the other thing that might help is to Over secure the EX system to the car... no give, completely rigid and solid... make it part of the car body... just guessing at this, as this is what I did to my truck, no more cracks devoloping ... 1 month now |
Prop |
DO NOT go fro the moss one! It is dreadfull. I don't know what diameter the small bore maniflow is. I think this http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx?ty=pb&pid=35078&title= is the one you want |
Onno Könemann |
Onno. Correct me if I'm wrong, but isn't the 948 one a smaller bore than the 1098/1275 one? The one on that link says it's for a 1275. Bernie. |
b higginson |
It says it is a 1.5" inner Diameter that would seem fine for a 948. Remember the A-series realy likes easy breathing for a 1275 i would go for the 1.75" |
Onno Könemann |
Prop What you have suggested there about over bracing it to the car is going to cause nothing but cracks. LCB's tend to crack at the join in the two outer branches, which is a pain in the ass to weld properly once it does crack. The actual manifold itself shouldnt be getting hit too often due to it being in relatively close proximity to the wheel providing you are road driving. My suggestion is to add a flexi pipe to the end of the collector where it joins to the rest of the system. This means a lot less stress put onto the monifold and its studs should the system under the car get hit by the waste of tarmac our authorities have insisted on placing everywhere in an attemt to destroy our cars. |
PeterJMoore |
Maniflow make the best LCBs - IMHO |
Dave O'Neill 2 |
Sorry peter, Im not sure a flexiable exhauste system works, My truck had one with lots of rubber mounts and it contianly moved around blowing out manifold gaskets and cracking, to the point it took forever to get my truck to pass inspection...finally I cut out anyhing that would allow it to flex and made it part of the truck in ragid form... that was a month ago... no cracking or ex manifold head gasket issues and passed inspection after having made the exhauste rigid mod 3 weeks before... still tight But that said... it is a unibody construction car, so you might have a better approach...perhaps it needs more flex so it can swing around independant of the car, while the truck is a body on frame and the exhaust system is rigid with in the frame not the body. |
Prop |
Prop, Peter means a flexible bit in the exhaust system itself and not just flexible exhaustmountings. The flexible bit stops the engine-vibrations getting thrue the rest of the exhaust & brackets. Like I had made on mine. Flip, on my 1500engine I had a Peter May LBC manifold and had it modified with a flexible part between it and the custommade remaining exhaust because my Peco kept breaking of by the same reasons yours is too. Once broken and welded it stayes weak and will go again probaly next to the weld. Spoil yourself with a good manifold and custommade exhaust system or get everything custombuild at EPS (groningen). Yes, its not cheap but replacing broken bits isnt either. |
Arie de Best |
My old Peco tubular manifold (fitted by the PO) used to regularly scrape the speed humps up our road. I've replaced it with a maniflow, which sits much tighter to the bottom of the car and I've only scraped it once or twice due to not slowing down enough. The maniflow is a real work of art compared to the Peco; it sounds much nicer and flows better. The chassis had been slightly relieved to get the Peco to fit through, but it wouldn't have needed the modification for the Maniflow. I think the Maniflow is great. Mark |
MarkH1 |
My vote for Maniflow (from Kim Dear) too. |
Gary lazarus |
Tank you gentlemen, So the Maniflow or Arie's is the one to go for. What is the price Arie? ( if you dont want to mention it here you can mail me..) Flip |
Flip Brühl 948 frog 59 |
Oh I gotcha... great idea Ill have to look around over here for one of those flex joints incase my "Rigid" idea dost pan out on the truck thanks |
Prop |
TUNNEL EXHAUSTE....thats what its called, several articals in the arcives, acccording to google as it relatess to my 1st posting.... then it would never scrap the speed Bumps agian. |
Prop |
And an other part of the trick is to mount it as close under the car as posible. 2 MGB rear mounts work great 1 behind the seat in one of the original bolt holes and 1 on the rear wher you have to grind a bit from the mounting bracket and bend a bit of steel bar to make a new mount. mine is now rely tight to the floor but i never hear it on hups again and my car is rather low. i'll try to take some pictures later |
Onno Könemann |
Flip, my 1500 Peter May manifold was actualy a maniflow too.(ive sold it to Rolf from Groningen who was with us at Spridget 50 Gaydon). Buying one of those and addapt it with a flexiblebit is (3 to 4 times)cheaper then a custommade manifold. I had to as ther is no one suplying a decent LHD Kspridget manifold. |
Arie de Best |
Actualy im thinking of designing a carter-protection with build in/on exhaust protection as im planning to do serious rallying again next year. I believe Irish PeterJMoore sells them for A-series spridgets. They can be seen on his site. Perhaps worth a thought for you too Flip? |
Arie de Best |
This is the type The big advantage is that you only load the rubber bushes in pressure not in stretch. Result you exhaust never falls off! |
Onno Könemann |
home made angle to the orignal holes
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Onno Könemann |
the same in the midle
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Onno Könemann |
And using the right clamps realy helps. The angle of the pic is a bit wrong but the botom of the bolt is the same heigth as the lowest point of the exhaust. It is a maniflow with a Magfic midget rc40 exhaust. Fits perfect sounds great does not limit power and is affordable! |
Onno Könemann |
As Arie says Sump Guards that we produce could also prevent your problem. |
PeterJMoore |
Sorry, Forgot the photo :S .......... and the hijack, I dont really like pushing business through the forum |
PeterJMoore |
Any idea where to pick up a quality set that's chromed? Look at the attached piece of work. |
TS Smith |
yuck that is all Most chrome piping available will be done as cost effective as possible In turn this will equate to the chrome plating deteriorating and peeling off within weeks. Would match a hamper rack nicely though. :P |
PeterJMoore |
There are some good high gloss ceramic coatings. |
Trevor Jessie |
Oooohhhh Vary nice TS, Im a fan! Treavor is right... Ceramic, Huge advances in the past 3 years this is a vary popular one sold thur techline.com... called cermkrome... also Jet hot makes a good one also http://www.hotrodders.com/forum/cermakrome-vs-jet-hot-header-coatings-63990.html http://www.classicchromeco.com/capscoating.htm Prop |
Prop |
that looks like car porn TSS! Flip |
Flip Brühl 948 frog 59 |
good feedback... looks ok when new, but won't last. I've had powder-coated, painted, and unfinished, and they all seem to look the same over time. My Harley exhaust seems to hold up well though.... |
TS Smith |
I just want to see the K&N filters on H1 carbs. |
D Ramsay |
Flip - give Maniflow a call. I did, and had a very informative talk with a chap who seemed to know what he was talking about. He spoke about pressure etc., which I only half-understood, and advised me to go for the small diameter pipe for a 948 engine. I told him mine is mildly tuned, and he still thought a larger diameter would not be appropriate. Maniflow's number was +44 1722 335 378, the last time I spoke to them. |
Nick |
Prop, here's a "thru-tunnel" header design... http://www.spridgetech.com/thru_tunnel_exhaust.htm |
TS Smith |
Thanks to everybody for the advices. I bought the Maniflow. Nice very nice tone and much less loud than the original. I can hear the dif and tranny now. Top speed is not affected; a somewhat richer needle is needed as pulling the choke ads 2 more miles. I do have the impression that acceleration is even a little bit better. I encountered 2 problems: -The damper sits to low and to close to the fuel tank. I tried every possible position; this was the one where the dif can’t touch the exhaust. -The manifold is to close to the inner rail of the chassis. At first it was perfect. After a pleasant drive at top speed it sat to close to the inner rail. What did I do wrong? How can I bend the maniflow manifold? I do not have a welding torch. Or do I have to change the front engine mounting rubbers? Flip |
Flip Brühl 948 frog 59 |
an other photo
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Flip Brühl 948 frog 59 |
Flip, what does Maniflow suggest when you contact them about these questions? Maniflow: TEL: (01722) 335378 Email: info@maniflow.co.uk Norm |
Norm Kerr |
I did sent them an e-mail an hour ago. The e-mail adres is maniflow at lineone.net Flip |
Flip Brühl 948 frog 59 |
Realy think about changing the rear mounting to a modified MGB mounting. (as i posted above) That rubber block will rip in 1 year and then your nice exhaust will grind over the street. By making your own mounts you can position it way better to. I mounted my exhaust as high a posible (your pic shows normal maniflow height) As a result the axle can not drop totaly without leaning on the exhaust. But this gives no problems when driving (though my car is lowered) no help with the manifold though |
Onno Könemann |
Onno, I ordered the MG B rear mounting. Maniflow called me back! The advice is: slacken the engine mounting rubbers. I'll try. Flip |
Flip Brühl 948 frog 59 |
Eh? So their manifold doesnt fit, and yet you have to slacken your engine mount rubbers to get it to fit. Don't think that would rub too well with me. Is it rubbing on the chassis leg itself or on the panel that the exhaust goes though (we have that metal totally removed for clearance) What condition are your engine mounts in? Maybe a new mount on the manifold side would tilt the engine enough to allow it to slip on passed the chassis leg. |
PeterJMoore |
Sorry to come in so late on this and apologies if I've got this wrongbut my maniflow manifold (for the 1275) downpipe sits one in front of the other rather than side by side, therefore there is no problem clearing the rails. |
Gary lazarus |
Apologies for the quality as it was taken with my mobile with the car in the garage but as you can see, even though ot's also a maniflow, it is much more sensibly (to me) designed to fit between the chasis rails. Bought from Kim Dear. |
Gary lazarus |
"So their manifold doesnt fit, and yet you have to slacken your engine mount rubbers to get it to fit" C'mon PeterJ, there is slack enough in the engine mounts to put the engine in wrong. Just undo all the bolts, lift the engine a bit and situate in a way everything fits and redo the bolts. |
Alex G Matla |
"Just undo all the bolts, lift the engine a bit and situate in a way everything fits and redo the bolts". That is what I did. I worked out well yes indeed. My next manifold will be the one you have Garry! How can I bend the last part of the 38 mm tube, just before the silencer, and without a torch? Flip |
Flip Brühl 948 frog 59 |
This thread was discussed between 11/10/2010 and 08/11/2010
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