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MG MGA - 1. Fuel Pump keeps clicking...
|I noticed, as I started my A yesterday, that the fuel pump seemed to take a long time to fill the bowls...I didn't wait until it quit, but she started right up. I drove her about 15 miles, but when I as I went on an uphill curve, I lost power. I was able to downshift and keep the engine free-wheeling enough to pull me off the road. It started right up again, and I continued my trip, until the next uphill. It cut out again...and started again after turning off. I looked at the archives (brain freeze! there were so many on this subject...and so many possible answers.|
I just went out and turned the key...and the clicking doesn't stop. Could you all give me some help.
(I numbered the thread, so maybe it will appear at the top of the archive responses and be of help to others with simular problem.)
Thanks in advance...guess I'll have to drive the wife's TD today, it's too nice out to stay at home!
|Have you any fuel in the tank?|
|Full tank, topped off last week, probably a gallon or two used for local fun drives.|
BTW as I was pulling out of the garage, my wife yelled, "TD is a little low on gas", I got 1/2 mile before it was out...luckily able to restart and limped across the hiway to a gas local gas station, hated to pay 4.29 per gallon, she took 9.5
|Check the pump filter that it isn't full of crud. Also check the filters at the carb banjos. Look for leaks or collapsed hoses. Look also for loose electrical connections at the coil and distributor. Check the electrical connection to the fuel pump.|
|There is a plastic/clear fuel filter(which appears in need of replacing)to the left of #1, is #1 also a filter/screen.(it looks different from the manual). Is #2 the fuel pump (it looks different from the manual too). I also have #3 under the hood, it's dialed to 2, should it be higher possibly?|
|If the pump is an "HP" as originally fitted to MGA's it has probably reached its "use-by" date and I understand that it is impractical to try to repair them. I now have later pumps on both of my MGA's, in one case a late MGB pump and on the other a Fuelflo (made in NZ?--which I have on several cars) but I have been told that these are no longer available (much quieter than a Facet and completely reliable).|
|It will not be a blockage in the fuel lines or filters. With a blockage the pump would stop ticking as soon as the pressure built up to normal.|
I assume that fuel is not coming out of the carburetter overflow pipes?
If it keeps ticking it appears that the inlet valve is leaking and the fuel is just returning to the tank.
|M F Anderson|
|Filter changed (bled rear brakes while I was at it). Continous ticking/clicking still. The ticking isn't slow, but pretty fast. No fuel out of overflow, even after 5 minutes with key on. I loosened the line going into the carbs, and fuel squirted/ran out.|
Took A for 5 mile run, ran good as usual, even up/down hills. Maybe that ticking was always there and I couldn't hear it over the radio...whoops, no radio...over the wind and that wonderful exhaust sound MGs are famous/loved for.
I still wonder about #3 and is #2 the fuel pump? Ticking seems to come from RH footwell area, but that could just be an echo.
|Chuckle. You have a bunch of aftermarket parts there. #1 is an in line filter. #2 is an "Airtex" or Master" type electronic fuel pump (or something similar), see here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/fuel/fp201.htm|
#3 is a Spectre fuel pressure regulator (similar to Purolator).
The electronic fuel pump should start quiet and get quieter when pressure builds. It should be inaudible when engine is running, but the pump should run continuously, no problem there. It should work best with output end up or horizontal. That type of pump has free floating check valves (gravity assisted), so it likely will not work with output end lower than input end.
The pressure regulator is only needed if you have the wrong pump. Pressure output from the pump should be in the 2.5 to 4.5 psi range, which makes the SU carburetors happy. If the pump puts out 5 psi or more, then you need the pressure regulator. With the regulator near the carburetors like that, set it to 3 psi, and then the incoming pressure makes no difference.
If the car starts and runs fine, but bogs down under load at high speed or going up hill, that's a fuel delivery problem. Try changing the fuel filter and see if that doesn't cure all.
|Barney, thank you.|
The link states:
"It is electronic construction with just one moving part and a pair of check valves. In operation it runs (oscillates) continuously, and when the pressure comes up it goes from quiet to quieter. You have to listen carefully to hear it when you turn the ignition on. It is nearly inaudible with the pressure up even before you start your engine."
I would guess that is what I'm hearing (it is pretty quiet, unlike the TD's). Maybe it was just the filter that needed changing.
|I should have checked before "going into print", apparently Fuelflo's are still available (perhaps it is a rival that has gone out of business?) but Fuelfos may not be marketed outside of Australasia?|
|Barry (and others interested) - "...but Fuelfos may not be marketed outside of Australasia" The Fuel Flow ECCO pump is available in the US from Victoria British. Cheers - Dave|
|David, I am pleased to hear that these pumps are available in the US! In response to an earlier thread someone said that they were not available in the US or was it UK? They are probably the best replacement for our" cars (low pressure, relatively quiet, so light that they don't need mounting as the hoses will support them, etc). As well as one of my MGA's I have one on my our MGC and even on my F-type Magna (in which the fuel has to be drawn over the top of the tank!). I have been using them for several years. On my F Magna I have routed the fuel through the SU Petrolift but where the pumps is seen (eg TC, Y-type, etc) there is no alternative but to persevere with the SU pump.|
|Barry - "In response to an earlier thread someone said that they were not available in the US or was it UK?" That may have been me that put that word out. I have since been told that they are available. Cheers - Dave|
|I have just had the "constant ticking problem" which started immediately after fitting a complete servicing kit including conversion to electronic circuitry.|
After several frustrating hours of trial and error I discovered that one of the new valve plates was very slightly curved and thus would not seal properly. I had chosen that valve plate to go in the inlet valve position so the back leakage allowed the pump to tick continuously. The giveaway was the mark made by the valve seat on the brass plate - it was not a complete circle.
The slight curvature could only just be seen when placed on a flat surface such as a sheet of glass and viewed from the edge but it was enough to cause the problem.
This thread was discussed between 19/05/2011 and 22/05/2011
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