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MG MGA - 1500 BRAKE PIPE SET
| Does anyone have a recommended supplier fora complete set of RH brake PIPES _ not the flexible "lines"|
Needed for a complete rebuild on a LHD to RHD conversion.
Any links and advice would be welcomed - with particular reference to a supplier in Oz
|Hi, Automek in the UK sells copper and copper nickel brake lines ready made, and also sell just the tubing, so one can make brake lines from scratch. I bought some copper nickel lines because they dont rust. They are excellent quality, and give peace of mind compared to steel lines than can rustout and leave you with no brakes. Glenn|
|According to "official" Australian rules, these lines are not allowed in Oz....even though some of the imported top of the range Porches and Italian breeds have them as standard....some rules for some etc.|
|Gary, your right, The reason some do is because they have proved that their pipes pass ADR legislation. Anyone can do this all it takes is the thousands of dollars to get the required testing done, I remember when the first Lambo Espada came into Aussie in the mid 70s. The guy who imported it made the papers because he brought 2 in, one to keep and the other was crash tested to destruction to prove it was safe, it was then crushed to avoid import taxes...true story!!|
These guys sell a stainless steel brake line kit but at $400 it is kind of spendy. Then again, stainless is far superior to copper as a hydraulic line, and they should never need to be replaced.
did you use classics ss lines, i'm having trouble with leaks on both rear wheel cylinders
|No, I haven't gotten to that point yet, and if you used their lines and are having trouble with them, I would really appreciate hearing more about it and any possible resolution. Are they new wheel cylinders or old, did the problem manifest itself over time, or immediately after installation of the stainless lines? Did you have to install and remove the lines (maybe more than once) to get everything fitted properly?|
Possible issues could include poorly/improperly flared ends, work hardened flares that have either cracked or will not conform well to the mating surface on the cylinder (stainless work hardens very easily), worn and/or corroded sealing surfaces on the cylinder, foreign object contamination, etc. Stainless steel in contact with Aluminum is cathodic and under the right conditions can cause the aluminum to corrode away. I wouldn't expect that to be a problem in this application, or at least not until quite some time has passed.
|The lines were brand new. i believe it has to do with the flared end. the wheel cylinders are existing. the fluid is seeping up through the pipe itself.installed the lines once and just keep tightening to no avail|
|Interesting. I would first examine the mating surface on the cylinder for evidence of corrosion, damage, or foreign material that might have been introduced when replacing the lines. Check the lines for cracking or other defects at the flares, also. It's also possible that the flares are work hardened from the forming process and/or repeated tightening, and unable to seal properly to the cylinder.|
If the mating surfaces at the cylinders and the flares look normal, I would contact the manufacturer for advice, since they may have experience dealing with similar problems. Am I correct in assuming you replaced all the lines in your car with the SS lines, and are only having problems with the line at the rear axle? Either way, I think the relatively high cost of the line set should certainly entitle you to call the manufacturer for tech support on this issue.
This thread was discussed between 22/03/2010 and 30/03/2010
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