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MG MGA - 1500 Gear Box finally rebuilt

Finally got the parts to finish building the gear box on my restore project. A few notes for someone else.
A 1/2" piece of Copper pipe cut to the correct length makes a perfect Lay Shaft. The shaft was bad so it got replaced. I had play in the remote control shifter so I sent it to University Motors to have Bronze bushings installed. I replaced the front cover with a modern one with a rubber seal. This part was the most challenging. The area where the lay shaft goes into the cover is not deep enough and I had to grind some away until the shaft was flush to the rear housing. I replaced 2nd sync.. not too hard just take your time and take apart in a Clear plastic bag to catch flying little springs and balls. Was easier to install the Shift selector with everything in Neutral.
Now done and shifts really nice. See attached.
All exterior Steel parts were re plated with Zinc/ Nickel. Yes for you guys that watch my threads I personally have replated every Nut, bolt, washer on the car. I have a small system set up in the basement. It takes a lot of time.. But when I need something done I just go plate it.. about 5 minutes per peace.


Ron Bissland

What she looked like before.



Ron Bissland

Ron,

It is good to see that you have fitted the top cover correctly.
It is shown incorrectly in the Workshop Manual.
It was also fitted incorrectly in your "before" photo.
Note:

http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/gearbox/gt100.htm

Mick
M F Anderson

Ron, what do you use to clean the case?
Mike
Mike Ellsmore

Ron, you can't be serious - "A 1/2" piece of Copper pipe cut to the correct length makes a perfect Lay Shaft."
Art Pearse

I think he means temporary, to install the assembly and it is then driven out with the actual layshaft. I have done exactly the same thing. If it is cut to exactly the right length to be a slip fit in the case you can even install the thrust washers. Just drop the assembly into the bottom of the case and lift it up into place and then thread the layshaft through
John DeWolf

Sorry, John is correct.. a temp shaft..
Mike to clean the case I Used High pressure washer With ZEP degreaser. Had to do it 3 times before it was totally clean. Then I taped, plugged every hole .. Then while still assembled I sand blasted it. After it was dry I coated it in " DIAMOND CLEAR " by KBS. When Dry this stuff is rock hard and seems like no chemicals will touch it. Takes about 24 to 36 hours to get rock hard. After disassemble.. I put another coat on it. Now that it is back together I will recoat again to seal all the zinc plating I have done.
Mick.. Yes the cover was on incorrect. I think My Dad did that as he had the car brand new from the dealer purchased in England While he was in the USAF.

Also to remove the Rubber Trans Mount I used a Bushing remover and installer model number A57Q from Snapon-Tools. I have quite a lot of tools for a DIY.
Ron Bissland

I think I used the old layshaft to assemble the new.
Art Pearse

In the picture where the tranny is still in the car, I noticed the metal straps were still place that support the exhaust system after all these years.
Ray Ammeter

Would be curious to see some pics of your plating set up. Not everyone has the knowledge of what it takes to plate items, and a small introduction (by you) with pictures would be appreciated. Maybe you could create a pages for Mr. Gaylords tech pages. that would be very helpfull.
Gordon Harrison

Ray, Yes since we owned the car from day one and my dad stopped driving it in 1971 it has most all original parts. Oil leaks saved a lot from rusting. :)
Gorgon I like your idea on the plating. It is not really that hard.. but learned a few tricks along the way. The plating is not hard to do. I degrease, then sand blast, then sometimes throw in a tumbler to smooth out, then dip in thinner to clean, then put in solution. There are two D batteries that supply the current that does the plating. I only leave in for 3 minutes at first. Remove and dip in Hot water. Then with a stainless steel wire bush I clean off the gray coating. While I am doing that part another part is in the plating process. Then once the pieces have a single coat on them, I run them through again for 3-5 minutes. Adding another coat. Based on the size of the piece is now many times I do this. Biggest piece I have done was the hand brake lever. Looks Like it is chromed. Need to make sure you keep the Zinc/Tin rod clean of BLACK crud. As that slows down the plating process. To suspend the pieces in the solution I have made up many different brackets. all made out of stripped Romax cable I had laying around. When done every thing is bagged and labeled. I try to do as much of this ahead of time as everything is ready to put back together. As I said before It takes a long time to do but I have not bought any new bolts yet. ( beside floor board ). Is nice to be able to do Small items as some people who do plating do not take the little items. All P-clips came out perfect. When Put back on the car I take a small paint brush and coat with Diamond clear. That will lock it in place and protect it forever.


Ron Bissland

More Pics plating


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Ron Bissland

Thanks Ron,
I see you are using the Eastwood plating system. Time I take a look at that.
Gordon Harrison

What are you plating with?
Tin, zinc or something else?
Art Pearse

Caswell Plating is also a good source of plating (and powdercoating) stuff for the DIYer.

-Del
D Rawlins

Art I am using TIN/ZINC rods. Cool part is now I do other things around the house that need protecting other than MGA parts. I might be going a little over board but I only want to do this one time and then Drive around and enjoy.
Ron Bissland

One more added thing. I purchased an assortment of Stainless Steel brushes to put in a drill so I could clean out the stuff in the threads in the nuts. all were run with a thread chaser first,, then plated then cleaned with wire brush. And a few different types of wire wheels to put into the Dremel.
Ron Bissland

This thread was discussed between 14/10/2014 and 16/10/2014

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