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MG MGA - 1500 to MGB disc brake conversion

Wife Cindy drove the car a lot to/from Whistler and didn't like the brake action. The 1500 (WW) to MGB disc brake conversion sounds all too easy:
1. Remove MGA king pin assembly (king pin, hub, and brake) 2. Install the MGB king pin assembly 3. Add two 3/8" spacers to the top MGA shock arm bolt to fill the gap. 4. Cut and rethread the outer tie rods 5/8". 5. Reset toe-in. Was there anything I'm missing? Reposition the mounting plate for the flexible brake hose? Any clearance problem with a knock-off sport wheel?
thanks, Tyler
C.T. Irwin

Could it be that she's just used to driving a car with power brakes?
David Breneman

Barney has a page on this. See http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/brakes/bt202.htm
He doesn't seem too keen on the idea.
David
David Marklew

Haven't driven a drum brake car of any make for a long while, but as I remember it the drum brake cars had a softer pedal with less effort. My first car was an MGA 1500 and the drum brakes never seemed difficult, but that was 40 years ago and my right foot was seldom on the brake.
James Johanski

I had my 1955 MG-ZA at the Whistler event. When the 1500 MGA's were losing their brakes on the mountain run I had no problem with my 2500lb car, even with 3 200lb+ adults on board. I have MGA1600 front hubs and discs with MGB calipers mounted on Jason Green brackets on the original king pins. This system is a bit more expensive, but you get a bolt-on setup that you can install in an afternoon.
I would certainly recommend it!

Rich
Rich McKIe

There's no trouble with the brakes, but Cindy just isn't used to manual drum brakes. The conversion was an idea I was considering for some time, and I think I have a good picture of what's required.
The bracket conversion method involves a pair of brackets, 2 new 1600 hubs, and brake parts. I haven't compared the cost yet to the MGB swap method. The MGB method definitely soulds more labor intensive. To solve the upper shock connection problem (there's a gap to fill), I'm told to install MGB shock arms on the MGA shock. Removal, disassembly, and machining of the rack and tie rod is the biggest chore. What about fitting the MGB tie rods to the MGA rack? Can this be done?

thanks, Tyler
tyler

Tyler

I converted my 1500 (wire wheel) car about 4 years ago, as described by Rich above. Works fine.

http://www.mgaroadster.co.uk/mga_1500_disc_brake_conversion.htm

Steve
Steve Gyles

When I converted my 58 to MGB front suspension I got a complete B cross-member with suspension and brakes from a wrecking yard. The whole conversion is bolt on and reversible except for shortening the tie rods. The B shocks fit if the arms are removed and reversed. I did the conversion in 88 but all I think I had to buy was caliper kits, pads and flex lines. If you can find the parts I can take pictures and send them to you with a how to. At the time I did it I spent less than $50.00 for the whole thing. Cost me more just for shocks this year when I bought a set of rebuilts. If you order shocks see if the can leave the arms off. Taking off one of the arms was the hardest part of the job.
R J Brown


tyler says:

"There's no trouble with the brakes, but Cindy just isn't used to manual drum brakes."

Sorry to be the stick in the mud, but if she isn't used to manual drum brakes, what makes you think she will like manual disk brakes? And of she doesn't, what's your next step?
David Breneman

I'll be the anti-stick in the mud. Even without the power assist, there's a big difference between drums and discs on these cars. Should be a noticeable improvement in stopping power and it should brake a little more like cars she's used to.
Mark

Forgot to mention, the Jason Green brackets are the way to go. I put them on my Magnette. They run about $450, plus you'll need to collect MGB calipers, MGA hubs and rotors and new bearings. I did the whole conversion for less than $700. The hardest part is finding the 1600 hubs.
Mark

From memory I believe that if you fit a disc conversion without a servo that your brakes will be harder and not so powerful as your current drum set up. This being the case you will need to fit a remote servo from a B in order to better your current braking performance.
Iain MacKintosh

I find my brakes on my ZA harder, but much more effective. There was a substantial difference in braking performance and less propensity for fade
Next winter's project involves installing rear discs so it will be interesting to see if that improves brake performance as well. (I don't expect as big an improvement on the back end)

Cheers,
Rich
Rich McKIe

Disc brakes require more pedal pressure?
Tyler
tyler

Not really, not more pedal pressure, but the pedal is harder...not as much cush, so to speak.

Rich
Rich McKIe

This thread was discussed between 03/08/2007 and 10/08/2007

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