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MG MGA - An easy way to refit cannister type oil filter?
Does anyone have an easy way to fit a cannister type oil filter assembly? I don't have a hoist or a pit. I have jacked the front of the car up with a trolley jack and have it secure on stands and can slide underneath okay. It is a ball breaker to get the bolt lined up and thread started lying on your back trying to overcome internal spring pressure and turn bolt with only two hands (when approaching 60). You do do it from underneath? Any tricks? Mike |
Mike Ellsmore |
Mike, I have no words of encouragement for you. I too had difficulties overcoming the spring pressure while trying to align the main bolt with the threads so it would screw in without crossthreading. I ended up changing to the modern filter. Even then, with a full size filter, the assembly of the new filter is somewhat awkward with minimum clearance available. I now use a shorter modern filter and have no problems. I will be interested to hear from those who have a secret trick, although I will never go back. I have the original canister sitting in a box for the next owner should he or she be masochistic enough to want to change back. Sorry this doesn't directly answer your question, but I can recommend the adapter. Chuck |
Chuck Schaefer |
Don't think I would call it easy, but I install mine from the top. I reach my left hand under the distributor, and use both hands to pull the cannister up into place against the spring pressure. Once I get the cannister in place and in the groove, I can hold it there with one hand. I turn the screw with the fingers of the other hand until the threads catch, then finish with a ratcheting box wrench. |
Jeff Schultz |
Now I know why the PO of mine changed to modern type canister. I remember doing the old type filter on my midget in the 60s - dumped a gallon of oil over the path before I discovered it wasn't seated properly - cheers Cam |
Cam Cunningham |
Unfortunately on right hand drive cars the steering shaft gets in the way which makes the job even harder. I always removed and replaced from above before I got a spin on adapter in a similar way to that described by Jeff but you can't get under the distributor. |
Keith Morris |
I knew there must be something that was harder with right hand drive. A year or so ago, I was having a very hard time trying to replace the oil pressure relief valve, and a lot of people across the ocean wondered why I was have so many problems with it. |
Jeff Schultz |
Mike Like you I have lost skin and a lot of oil from a poorly lined up filter. Still trying to find an easy way to do it. My wife still gets extra cloths ready when I tell her that I am going to do an oil and filter change. Typical wife always remembers the one incident. |
Shane Rossetto |
I just completed the oil change on my 1600 on the weekend. I won't share with members the words I used when I discovered the spring clip sitting on the bench after finally re-filling the car with oil and pulling the starter to get the oil pressure up! This time round I had the distributor and starter motor out (for other reasons) but still couldn't manage to install the cannister from the top. My best method to date is to turn the steering wheel on a hard right hand lock and squirm under the car. What makes the job even more tougher on my car (and I presume other RHD's) is the hydraulic brake lines fastened along the chassis - they impinge on the bolt making it impossible to fit a ring spanner for the first vital few turns! |
Steven Hill |
The only trick is practice...lots of practice! Actually, I always found it easiest to push the canister into contact with the seal before trying to tighten the bolt. My current car has had the spin on conversion. Life is too short to have oily elbows! Rich |
Rich McKIe |
On the mga twin cam the wide cylinder head with the SU's on the oil filter side, and a sump (oil pan) which bulges out at the sides to almost touch the chassis rail, you think it would be a lot more than just difficult. More like impossible. However, the removeable body panel in the wheel arch makes it easy. Maybe a good modification for a pushrod MGA? Not concours, but it is a factory modification. Mick |
Mick Anderson |
Mike Even on my LHD car I tackle the filter change from the bottom. I would suggest putting the car up by about 30cm (12inches) at the front to get better access. The best for this is a number of paving slabs just under the wheels as this gives best access. I make a ramp and drive up then remove the ramp and chock the rear wheels. With this amount of access it is much easier even though you still are having to lie on the ground. Big tip is to fit the seal into the groove on the mount then place the cannister on top, hold it tightly in place and attempt to get the bolt in. Try not to move the cannister too much before the bolt is tight as the seal may come out (I know this to my cost. Twice!!). Once in and the oil refilled I suggest to run the car until it is warm and then get a piece of paper and hold it near the filter. If the paper gets oily then there is a leak. One leak I had was through a very fine hole and you could not see the oil coming out. I put my hand close though and it became covered in oil, the paper method is better. Neil |
Neil Purves |
Thanks guys, I have been interstate for the last week - I am going to give it another go this weekend. If I fail again I will have to resort to giving our local MG guru a call - his advice to me is that it gets easy to do the more you do it - he has been doing it for 40 years! Regards Mike |
Mike Ellsmore |
Change to spin-on. It's easier to change and filters the oil a lot better too. |
dominic clancy |
This thread was discussed between 16/07/2007 and 22/07/2007
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