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MG MGA - Applying Waxoyl archive?

Hi to all readers of this BBS.
I am about to apply Waxoyl into the chassis of my '58 coupe, and tried looking for information on this in the archives without success. Can anyone give me the link(s), or relate their experience on this exercise.
I am told it is easier to apply if it is warmed up, but that it can be one helluva mess doing it. Also, what size of holes, and their location, works best? (I can rotate the chassis)
Any comments on this would be welcomed.
Peter.
P.S. I have the hand pump version of the product, not the aerosol.
P. Tilbury

Hi, Not used it inside the chassis - only externally on the chassis and behind body panels etc - but yes you need to warm the can up first. Either keep it inside the house next to a radiator for an hour or two, or immerse the can in a bucket of hot water for half an hour before starting and then shake it up vigourously. I tried it once without doing it and it blocked the jets in the nozzle until the pipe flew off - got a lovely coating of the stuff all over my jeans- cheers Cam
Cam Cunningham

Hi I have just sprayed inside all my chassis rails with an Aussie version of the stuff using a specialised gun and a compressor (car is in stripped bare chassis state). It was a piece of cake. You will find using it with the correct compressor gun and associated hose are adequate if you do not try to lengthen the hose or reduce its diameter to make it fit into existing drain holes (at least in my case I found it affected the spray pattern/rate). I drilled/enlarged the existing drain holes and added 2 extra ones so as to allow the hose and nozzle to fit in and reach the entire length of the chassis rails. The new holes were in locations the gun hose would not reach. I inverted the chassis and sprayed several times over the whole day rotating the chassis 90 degrees each time then returned the chassis to upright position. Used about 1.5 litres on each side plus 1/2 litre for the cross members. Have let it sit now for about 2 weeks and intend to place rubber grommets into holes and re-do every 2 years. Prior to doing it this way I considered just standing the chassis on its nose using an engine hoist, sealing all holes (you would be amazed at how many little welding gaps the factory left in a chassis) and filling it up with the stuff from a hole drilled into the end of the chassis (here in tropical Queensland it is hot enough not to need warming), then leaving it for a day and tipping the car up the other way but the quantity of stuff required, likelyhood of leaks and the low cost of the gun made me go with the first option.
By the way, to find any holes in the chassis I simply taped all the drain holes except one and then inserted a compressor hose into the last one at low pressure (so as to not blow the tape off) and felt along the entire chassis for any leaks then used por-15 sealant to seal these leaks.
regards
mark
Mark Mathiesen

This thread was discussed on 18/03/2008

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