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MG MGA - Bleeding the Brake & Clutch

For the last two Saturdays I have been trying to bleed my brakes and clutch. Prior to last Saturday the brand new system has been dry. I did not bleed the master cylinder before trying to bleed the rest of the system. The traditional bleeding process has not worked in this case. What should I do to get my brakes and clutch to bleed properly?
gerard hutchinson

Try Eezibleed, has always worked first time for me.
Neil McGurk

Agree on the Eezibleed. You'll probably get a bubble in the clutch slave, so it's worth pushing the piston in as far as you can, and tying the release lever up with wire or something.

For the brakes, I've heard that some people leave all the nipples open overnight, but it must be rather messy. Just start with the one furthest from the master cyl., and it'll get there eventually. If it doesn't, then your master cylinder isn't sealing properly.

Did you rebuild it yourself?
Nick

Have someone put a tube into top of master and blow giving it some air pressure . The air pressure was enough to put you over the hump and we got brake and clutch pressure .
Karl LaFollette

Sometimes the pistons on a recently rebuilt master are so stiff that the piston does not fully return. Air in the top of the master will force it back. Pictured is an air nozzle blowing into the master through the rubber tip of the shown compression tester. Barely blip the air on or use a regulator down to 10psi or so or it can blow back up into your face.
With one person manning the air and the other opening the bleeder you can use this method to bleed the clutch and brakes.


R J Brown

The problem, when trying to bleed the clutch, is that there is no non-return valve in the system. So as you pump the clutch pedal, all you do is move a column of fluid, with air in it, up and down the clutch line, and nothing comes out the bleed screw.
I have not tried "eazibleed" on the clutch side, but feel it will not work. In practice, patience is required, and in due time the air bubbles will work their way to the surface. It may take three or four days for this to happen.
One bush mechanic told me you can connect the clutch bleed screw to the front right brake bleed screw with a long rubber hose, and with both screws open, you can then pump the clutch pedal, and the non-return valve in the brake system will then work for the clutch side. Haven't tried this, but it sounds plausible.
Peter.
P. Tilbury

Eezibleed works a treat on brakes and clutch. Very quick, no bubbles.
Neil McGurk

The EEzibleed works just great for brakes and clutch. Having the combination of a helper and the Eezibleed makes bleeding brakes and clutch into a ten minute job from start to finish.
dominic clancy

Thanks guys.

This weekend was a bitter-sweet success. I was able to bleed the brakes and clutch but I'm afraid I need to adjust my cluth mechanism -- a minor setback.
gerard hutchinson

Gerard,
The only adjustment is at the operating rod at the pedal/master cylinder, and it is to ensure there is free play when the pedal is in the resting position.
Peter.
P. Tilbury

This thread was discussed between 06/04/2008 and 15/04/2008

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This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGA BBS is active now.