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MG MGA - Body removal

O.K. I have removed the fenders (rocker pannels still on), removed dash,doors,grill,seats, floorbaords (exept the one infront of pedals). I haven't draned the gas tank, or clutch, brake lines. So now what, I am tring to get the car down to the frame.
D.M. Black

D.M. you now need to construct some bracing to run across the door openings and ideally as a diagonal across the cockpit to keep the body from distorting when it's lifted off. This can also be a handy place to hook on a lifting device if you're doing a one man operation. (A good photo of this operation is on the
Eclectilc Motors web site , http://www.eclecticmotorworks.com/dhtc02.html) Disconnect the lines from the clutch and brake master cylinder, and remove the master cylinder and it's mounting. You also need to remove the upper steering column support clamp. Pull back any electrical connections that extend into the body from the chassis. You'll have to remove the rear bumper and brackets as these extend through the body. That should be about all except for removing the body to chassis bolts and you should be ready to lift the body off. Of course I know I've forgotten something, I usually do and don't find it until I have something heavy halfway lifted, so check carefully and then double check. ;-)
Bill Young

Remove the doors, radiator, steering column, heater, clutch & brake master cylinders, peddals & brackets, wiper motor, fuel filler pipe, shift lever. Disconnect all the wiring and remove the harness from all enterances to the body. Brace the body between the front scuttle panel and rear cockpit rail area so that the body won't bend when removed. Before lifting the body get a copy of the original factory workshop manual, you are going to need it anyhow and it includes a step by step instruction for removing the body.
John H

DM,

I've got some bracing already made up of 1" angle iron. You can borrow it if you want to pick it up.

I live in SE Denver near 25 and Hampden.

j
JohnB

John once it is off I have a jig that fits where the 4 body bolts would attach to the frame. Before it comes off reinforce the opening, I have been thinking about making a jig to fit accross the cockpit that would bolt to the holes that the the upholstered rails bolt to. Now would be the time to make it if you want to use it.
Randy
R J Brown

You need to remove the fuel tank too. The angled filler pipe which is part of the tank protrudes through the boot floor and will prefent lifting of the body.

The factory had a cute way to deal with this in production. They would install the fuel tank but leave it hanging down in back until the body was installed, then lift the tank into palce and secure the straps.
Barney Gaylord

I made a cockpit brace using 1" angle iron and 3/4" square tubing. I did as RJ mentioned and took 2 lengths of angle iron, one for the front and one for the rear, notched them to aid in bending, lined them up with the holes that the cockpit trim mounted to, drilled holes and mouted the newly formed angle iron with some small bolts.

I then took the sqaure tubing, cut several pieces to length, and welded them in being careful not to impede the removal of the bolts later. My one mistake was not taking into account for the steering wheel! This made it a little 'tough' to steer the car with the brace in place.

I was able to remove the body several times, even took it to have it media blasted, and it always bolted back up to the chassis with minimal effort.

You can see it here in the 'Paint Process' folder if you like.

Tom

http://pg.photos.yahoo.com/ph/mgb1972/my_photos
Tom Baker

This thread was discussed between 17/01/2006 and 18/01/2006

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