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MG MGA - bonnet release rod guide brackets

Were two bonnet release rod guide brackets on the inner fender standard only on the 1600 models? I have a 1500 coupe with only one bracket and no evidence of a second bracket ever being there!

Thanks.
George G.

Having a heck of a time refitting the bonnet release rod. I think now that maybe the second guide bracket is needed to prevent the rod from rubbing on the top of the inner fender, hope someone can confirm this second bracket. Now, does the rod pass thru a notch on the bottom of the "latch bar", the sheet metal bit across the front behind radiator that has the latch assembly, or does the rod stop short just behind the latch bar? Help!

And Thanks again!!
George G.

Sorry, meant to say that the latch bar is in front of the radiator....
George G.

George,

I have put two vertical brackets on mine (1600 roadster) and I copied them from the ones on the original side flitch.
They are right angled pieces of sheet having the same thickness as the body (around 1mm). Both have vertical slots, one is blind on the bottom and the other is blind on the top. After the rod is placed in the slots it can neither move up nor down but is free to move longitudinally. It might be best if I post a drawing tomorrow if I can find it as this would explain it better.

The release rod after passing through these two brackets then passes through a large hole (around 1" diameter) in the bracket that holds the short 4" diameter tube for the flexible hoses. A rubber grommet is fitted into this 1" hole and the release rod passes through it. The end of the release rod terminates in a small right angled portion which fits into a right angled crank which is screwed to the left hand side of the latch bar. .................Mike
m.j. moore

George

My 1500 (Roadster) body has two brackets.

Steve
Steve Gyles

This is a diagram of the bonnet crank position when pull rod is released; I remember having a hassle when fixing the crank. The latch bar has a downwards flange on both sides so the crank has to be spaced from the bar to clear the flange. Also the latch bar at each end has a 45 degree downwards pointing section which acts as a stop on the LHS for the long end of the crank. So the special shouldered pivot bolt goes through the crank then the spacer and into the latch bar. There is a self locking nut to fix the bolt which I found a pig to fit.

m.j. moore

Mike

You have summed up the reason why I have not yet got round to fitting the missing tab and spring on my operating rod (other thread). I had one look in that area of my fully furnished engine compartment and decided it was too difficult until I next have the engine and everything else out!

At least I have the consolation that if the mechanism ever gets fouled up and 'seized', I have adapted my grille to be removed from the outside.

Steve
Steve Gyles

The second pic. is a diagram of the release rod brackets.
The brackets originally were spot welded to the body wall. On mine, and from the bulhead, the release rod goes past the cowl drainage pipe on the side nearer the centre of the car and then through the first bracket slot. See third picture. At this point the rod centre is about 23mm from the body wall. At the second bracket the rod centre is 15mm from the wall.

I'm not sure I agree with Barney's comment that the spring is not really an anti-rattle spring because it is described as such in the 1600 Parts Manual. I wondered whether the first cars had no rod brackets and they were added later to stop a rattle. The fact that adding brackets would increase the friction perhaps meant that the main return spring under the latch bar then had insufficient tension so the brackets (anti rattle) and spring really went together.

Anyway having a recent look on mine I found that the main source of friction is where the rod passes under the windscreen wiper motor bracket and catches the bracket.
I reckon if you carefully eliminated these three friction sources by carefully bending the rod you wouldn't need a spring.

m.j. moore

Here is the third picture..............Mike

m.j. moore

Steve, If you put a touch of grease on the rod touching points it should reduce the chance of siezing up. But it doesn't stop the new paint being scraped off the release rod ! .................... Mike
m.j. moore

Just in case you've lost your toggle plate, Steve, and while I have it to hand here are the dimensions. See pic. number four.


m.j. moore

Thanks for the diagram Mike. I will copy and store away for a rainy workshop day. Interestingly with no anti rattle spring in place my rod is not under stress in any area along its length. It's some 16 years since the rebuild and not a sign of worn paint along its length. The rod is absolutely plumb centre through the radiator wall hole and I don't even have the grommet in place that you mention. May be that is why my engine runs so cool, another access for all that cold air!

Steve
Steve Gyles

Thanks a lot Mike, the pic/sketches are a great help. I do have the one bracket nearest the bulkhead, so I used that as a model to fabricate the second bracket yesterday. I can use your info to position it, which I plan to do today. I agree with the close working space, but the grille is out so I can reach in from the opening and sort of get my hands in to attach the link and pivot bolt with the small locknut. Thanks all for the help!
George G.

Aha. Steve how did you adaptgrill to open from outside?
H L Davy

HL

See here: http://tinyurl.com/qcwndqw

Steve
Steve Gyles

A couple of comments: -

1)My car is a 1500 that I have had since 1972 hence know all but its earliest history. I only have one bracket which is the front one as per Mike's photo. There is no problem with rubbing on inner wing/fender as rod is shaped to avoid this issue.

2) Like Steve, for the same reason, I have converted the top grill fixing into 'a pin/socket' arrangement although in a rather cruder way than Steve. I like Steve's tip of sticking the trim strip to the grill frame to aid fitting.

I haven't looked at the rest of design but if anyone wants anything specific checking I could.

Paul
Paul Dean

Paul, your first comment is interesting. My car is also a 1500, but a late production number. My single bracket was the one closest to the bulkhead. Perhaps some "quality control" issues when the cars were built?!

George
George G.

George, Here are a couple of photos of my (now sold) '56 roadster. I can't remember what was there. I can't imagine that there was any difference between coupes and roadsters in this area. Unfortunately, thus is the best I have.

Chuck Schaefer

And here is the front tab

Chuck Schaefer

Thanks Chuck, and good to hear from you. Looks like you also had only a single rod guide bracket. Also, the tab that the return spring attaches to is also different from mine and others that I have seen.

Thanks!
George G.

Chuck, sorry, didn't see the front bracket at first look, so your car did have both. Now mine has two as well.
George G.

This thread was discussed between 10/07/2014 and 02/08/2014

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