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MG MGA - brakes/door closure
|brakes.(1600 Mk 2)|
Getting towards MOT but not happy with the brake response.(bearing in mind I am used to modern servo brakes.I have bled the lines several times and last time I only got about two inches of fluid coming up the bleed tube from each corner(with no air bubbles) and I would have thought that using a pressure bleeder the fluid would have been forced out from the M/C fairly quickly.The clutch was OK, with plenty of fluid being pushed through.Your thoughts please.
They closed perfectly with hardly any pressure until I fitted the inner pockets and panels, now they won't shut at all(only on to the first click)The door seals are from Bob West.Solution?
P.S.Should have more pairs of stub stacks next week.
|Something wrong with the brakes. If you use the eezibleed then the fluid comes out of the tube at a reasonable speed. Long shot, but the bleed nipples are at the top of the calliper aren't they? It is possible to fit the brakes callipers on opposite sides and then the bleeder is at the bottom.|
Seems like the gap between door and flange is too tight. the extra 3/16" or so of the door panel is squashing the seal too tight. The solution is to find where this is the case (hopefully not around the whole door) and then remove the seal and tap the flange inboard to open up the gap. Take the panel off, close the door and see how much thickness material can be inserted between seal and door at different points.
How did you get on with the front bumper? I just had mine on and off for a test fitting prior to painting.
|I find that on the brakes, you need someone to press the pedal even when using the eezibleed. It's just faster to do with the eezibleed than the standard way. There's probably nothing wrong mechanically.|
|Disregarding what the instructions might say, I always use the pressure bleeder with full tire pressure, about 25-28 psi, and it works well. If fluid does not go through with pressure, there is something amiss in the hydraulic system. Clogged bleed nipple, clogged hose, smashed pipe maybe. morel likely something obstructing flow through the master cylinder. If the master piston is not returned all the way to the end plate, then low pressure (less then 10 psi) may not push fluid past the primary rubber cup seal.|
If normal bleeding practice is not working (due to stuck master piston for instance), then reverse bleeding is sure to work.
|For door seals, see here: |
This thread was discussed on 17/05/2012
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