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MG MGA - Carb overflow pipes
|I have 2 overflow pipes. One is quite long, the other short. What is the correct routing for these? I should think they should both go to below the exhaust manifold for safety.|
|From the Workshop Manual. You can see the pipes.
|you can repar these by taking the old tube off and soldering in a new one. I used small copper tubing meant for ac line. Just make sure you don't solder the tube shut like I did. Makes it run really weird.|
|R J Brown|
|If you don't mind the lack of originality it is convenient and an easy fix for damaged drain tubes to splice them near the cover with a push-on short piece of flexible tube, fuel rated of course. This is how they were done on MGBs and it makes carburator or float bowl cover removal easier.|
|I have always thought that the pipes finishing at different points was a bit untidy. This was done so that only one length of pipe was needed to be made and stocked, and could be supported at the blanking plate.|
The Twin Cam has a much better setup, with supporting clips at the oil pan bolts.
See image of Twin Cam engine on production line at Morris Engines Branch Coventry.
|M F Anderson|
|I found that the overflow pipe was identical size to a used piece of brakeline I had laying around. Rather than removing the original shortened piece, I just extended it by brazing a copper tube as a sleeve over the joint.|
|Art, Like John, I have attached flexible tubing to both overflow pipes, and joined them with a T-piece to another length of flexible tube which is drouted down to and attached to the lower edge of the front left-hand wheel arch just behind and inboard of the wheel. It extends a couple of inches below the level of the wheel arch so I can easily check for leaks. AB|
|I've installed flexible fuel line, simply pushed over the ends of the metal tubing off the carb float bowls, and routed them to the bottom of the engine where they are attached to the frame with cable ties. Likely not a concourse solution, but completely invisible and functional, even for leak check. Am I asking for any trouoble with this solution?|
|Matt, sounds like a good solution. There is relative movement between engine and frame so make sure there is enough hose to allow for the movement and that it cannot touch anything (that will cause wear). Also ensure a big space between tube and exhaust!|
|Attaching the metal pipes from carbs to side of engine block is such a PITA chore that few people both to do it. Leaving the pipes hanging without bottom end attachment commonly leads to broken pipes when stress of vibration gets to then near the top bend. My easy "practical" solution is similar to Matt's. I put rubber hoses on the pipes near the float covers and drop them hoses down between frame and inner fender.|
This thread was discussed between 07/07/2009 and 10/07/2009
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