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MG MGA - Clutch biting point
|Took the car out for its first good run of the year. It may be me, but it seems the clutch biting point is lower than I recall. There seems to be less travel for the pedal from the floor until it engages.|
Is this adjustable please? Or is it a sign of something wearing out?
|First action would be check the pushrod in the MC. Perhaps too much slack before the rod engages the piston?|
|Thanks Steve. I had a look, and although there is indeed a small amount of slack, I discovered there is a tiny amount of weeping down the push rod, when the pedal is depressed. So I guess this is the reason.|
I have a shiny new master cylinder sitting in the garage, so now is its moment.
One question please, does anything hold the push rods in place inside the MC, or will they come straight out, when I remove the split pins on the connection to the pedals?
|You have to remove the circlip item 20 in the attached image.|
|M F Anderson|
|Apologies, I attached an image from the MGA 1600 with four wheel disc brakes (Deluxe model).|
|M F Anderson|
|Better luck this time.|
The attached image for the standard MGA shows that there is not a bulge at the end of the pushrod retained by a circlip as on the Twin Cam and Deluxe models..
The pushrod has a constant diameter and no circlip and will just simply pull out.
|M F Anderson|
Once you remove the pins attaching the rods to the pedals they withdraw straight out, although you may have to screw the adjusters in a bit to get clearance with the pedals. However, as you are removing the MC just leave them there until you have undone the 2 MC retaining bolts. Lift the unit and the rods will come straight out.
Is your new MC an AP Caparo? By far the best. I would not touch other cheaper versions.
|Thanks Mick and Steve. Much appreciated. |
No it's not the AP Caparo which I had heard is considered to be very good. its the TRW Lucas. I did a lot of research after I bought it, which indicated some people using silicon fluid experienced problems with it, but those like me that still have paint stripper in the system, have given it good reviews. Time will tell.
It looks a pretty straight forward job as long as the clutch bleeds ok. I will probably use my eezibleed, although I have had problems in the past getting the cap to fit properly on top of the MC.
I will probably also take the opportunity to clean up some of the damaged paintwork behind the MC from splashed fluid.
That can be a problem with Eezibleed and if you have the container filled with fluid some of it can be forced out, damaging your paintwork - not an issue with silicon. Make sure you keep the supply air pressure very low.
I get round this by keeping the tank empty and just using air pressure on the MC fluid. This means that after each brake bleed I stop and refill the MC, then let it stand for a while for the bubbles to come out. Takes a bit longer. Perhaps a cup of coffee between each bleed.
This thread was discussed between 01/06/2017 and 02/06/2017
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