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MG MGA - Clutch push rod
|Ordered a clutch push rod from Moss 180-200 and it is about 1" too short. Old one is 3.25" from hole centre to tip.|
|I have a new one in my hand. 2-3/8" center of hole to tip. Looks right to me. Better be right, 'cause I'd be pretty PO'd if it didn't fit when I needed it. And incidentally, this one is about to ship off for Japan, so the recipient could be even more PO'd if it doesn't fit.|
When I rebuilt my clutch slave cylinder I found that the PO had welded an extention to the end of the clutch push rod. Presumably to take up the slack from oblong hole wear in both the clutch push rod and the MC push rods.
I rebuilt mine with the Moss supplied part and all new connecting hardware. All works fine.
|Interesting these variations. I appreciate we are talking about the slave cylinder push rod here, but when I converted my car from LHD to RHD I found the clutch MC operating rod was too short and had to fabricate a longer one. I presumed at the time that this was down to variances in new build pedal assemblies.|
|I'm talking about the slave push rod.|
|The new one is 2-3/8". The slave cyl. is quite deep and it will only protrude about 1/4" when pushed right back. I must mount the gearbox and test it against the clutch in position. were there ever two types of cylinder and pushrod? This is a '61 1600.|
My UK Moss catalogue gives 13H21 as the P/No for the push rod, and mine is 2-3/8". Don't forget, when first bleeding, the piston will travel forward to take up all the slack. Not a lot protrudes through the rubber cap and, in operation, the rod only moves a small amount. Only one cylinder type for the push rod cars, but make sure you have a pushrod car cylinder as a Twin Cam (& Austin Healey) slave will physically fit but will give a different length of throw due to different bore size and displacement. Also, If you have changed to an MGB Clutch this has different gemoetry and requires an MGB fork and cover plate.
|The fork is MGA. The slave cyl has the same bore as MGA standard (rebuild kit seal fits). The 2-3/8 rod end is just visible when pushed right back (the rubber boot tip and the eye are about the same position). I can't imagine how someone could have used a 7/8" longer rod. Will see when I get the box mated to the engine.|
This thread was discussed between 11/05/2010 and 12/05/2010
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