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MG MGA - Clutch push rod/clevis pin
|From a previous thread I'm trying to get the slack out of my clutch pedal and have been inspecting the clutch push rod and clevis pin. From the photo the rod seems a long way out of centre from the clevis pin and I assume this can only be due to wear in one or both of them. My problem is that having got the split pin out I can't rotate or budge the pin. Its only been 5 years since a rebuilt and I'm surprised at the wear. Access is difficult without a pit or ramp and I wondered if theres any tips for easing the out the pin.|
|J H Cole|
|Does look like a lot of wear. My idea would be to unbolt the slave cylinder and pull the pushrod out of the cylinder so it is hanging free. That way you can move the rod around and hopefully get the pin out. Just make sure to bolt the slave back in place so it is not hanging on the hose.|
|Oops, forgot that there is a ring holding the pushrod into the boot, but unbolting the slave should allow enough slack to get the pin out. Maybe could just push on the end of the rod to force the piston back into the slave and get some slack. Perhaps even crack the bleed screw to make it easier.|
|John, is there any side load on the pin now? If so you need to get that removed so that the rod can be brought back into alignment with the lever. As it is now the pin will stop on the side of the rod when you try to drive it out. From the looks of the assembly there is wear in both the pin and the lever and probably the rod as well. You won't know for sure which is worse until you get it apart.|
|Bill, by side load do you mean either the fork or slave cylinder pushing on the pin? I can't move the fork but I'm going to unbolt the slave cylinder as Jeff suggests to get a purchase on the rod. Do you think that I should tighten the hose to remove any possible pressure from the slave? I think there may be some residual pressure on the pin. I'm expecting the worst in terms of wear and will report back if and when I get the darn thing off.|
|J H Cole|
|John, If you open the bleeder it should release the pressure from the slave, if not remove the flex hose. Either way should relese any pressure and allow the push rod to move back towards the slave alowing the holes to line up. Another thought, does the rod have any up and down movement on the pin? If not, the fork may be pinching the rod holding it in it's current location. You can try to prise the fork slightly to release the rod or, using a drift tap on the end of the rod which should force it back and align the holes. Also, you might try taping the bottom of the pin, with the drift, upwards which should push the rod back aligning the rod and fork. Taping on the rod and then the pin a little at a time will probably work. I say this only from experience. Hope this helps...Norm|
P.S a little WD-40 will help lubricate everything allowing it to move easier.
|John, I forgot your from across the pond. I don't know if you can get WD-40, if not any penetrating oil will work.|
Also a little disclaimer, taping on the rod and pin will not take a lot of force so go easy. You don't want to damage the Clutch Lever (fork)
|Finally got the clevis pin out by unbolting the slave cylinder. The wear on the pin and fork wasn't too bad but the hole in the rod was badly elongated as pic. On inspection I found that a PO must have leaded the hole and re drilled it rather like early white main bearings for old cars. Most of the lead had worn away leaving the original deformed hole.|
|J H Cole|
|push rod pic
|J H Cole|
|That's about what I suspected from the photo. If you can't source another rod then you can get a fairly long lasting repair by brazing up the hole and redrilling. The brass makes a good bearing surface and will last for a long time before showing signs of wear.|
This thread was discussed between 19/05/2008 and 20/05/2008
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