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MG MGA - Clutch slave cylinder

I was on Moss Motors site and priced a new clutch slave cylinder. The one for $104.00 said Lockheed. The other for $54.00 said classic gold.
Is the Classic gold a repro of the original and has anyone tried this one?

Thanks....Ray
Ray Ammeter

Hi Ray. The less expensive one is a reproduction. It is apparently made in Asia. I have not tried one personally, but have read a comment from a Canadian supplier, who says the cylinder seems to be of decent quality. Perhaps someone else has direct experience. At $104.00, a person could likely have the old unit sleeved in stainless steel, which would NEVER pit or corrode. Just an observation. Cheers, Glenn
Glenn

If you have a good core, University Motors lists a rebuilt unit for slightly more than the cost of a new repro, but less than the new Lockheed:

http://www.universitymotorsltd.com/goldstar.html
Del Rawlins

I haven't had any experience with that particular part. I haven't repalced any hydraulic cylinder on my MGA in 20 years and 205,000 miles since first restoration,although I have repacked them and replaced hoses a couple of times.

Not to jump to any rash assumption, my question is, do you really need it? Just because a cylinder may leak or bind does not automatically delegate it to the dust bin. If you can hone it out smooth, a repacking kit is cheap. With proper hydraulic maintenance and occasional honinig and repacking, hydraulic cylinders may be serviceable longer than your lifetime. The only reason to do otherwise is if a cylinder may be scratched or pitted beyond the ability to hone it smooth.

Of course if you don't trust your own work or are superstitious or paranoid feel free to spend the money on a new one (and send me the old one). Or if it IS badly pitted, well the dust bin is right over there, as a new repro part is cheaper then a sleeve (unless you have your own boring machine).
Barney Gaylord

Ray,

I have a slave cylinder that was purchased from Scarbourgh Faire and was used for about 2 weeks this past July. It would not work on my car because I have a DeLuxe and the bore is not the same. I would be willing to let it go cheap. Send my an e-mail if you are interested. I will have to see how much I paid for it.

Mark
M Gannon

Occasionally replacing the cylinder is the way to go, versus just resleeving it. After time the bleeder threads can wear down making it very difficult to properly bleed the system. I just had experience with two cars with this problem- one had worn down threads which made for a loose-fitting bleed screw, the other had a "NOS" Lockheed cylinder that I had purchased at a swap meet. The threads on that one, though they looked to be in good shape, would allow air past the threads while bleeding- even though I tried a new bleed screw and a few old ones.

The classic gold isn't an exact repro of the A cylinder- it's like the B cylinder, with one fitting at the top and the other at the rear. That said, it works fine as I have put one on a B before. I believe the deal with the classic gold cylinder is that you can't use a standard Lockheed rebuild kit to repair it. Once the seals go, it's toast.
Mark

Twenty years ago when I rebuilt the slave cylinder it had a few pits inside the cylinder, but the rebuild kits were cheap and I thought I would give a try. Well it worked, surprised me. When ever I notice the slave cylinder under the car, I always think with all those pits it really should be leaking. Maybe I am a better mechanic than I give myself credit for. Ya Right. It's still is doing the job, but I can't believe the bore has gotten any better. I do have a hone for a small bore and I may give it a try, but since bleeding the slave cylinder can be a real pain, I don't need anymore troubles while trying to bleed it.
Since the motor is coming out soon. I think it is time to consider buying a new slave cylinder.

Ray
Ray Ammeter

Here's something no one seems to have mentioned. I don't know if the MGA slave is iron or aluminum. But aluminum ones are anodised if I am not misinformed. And honing will remove this protective layer, making the time between seal changes shorter. New ones may be harder to come by in the future, and saving money today may be important. So it's up to you.
Tom

Hi Folks. Often, slave cylinders, and other hydraulic cylinders corrode or rust because of using "ordinary" brake fluid that absorbs water. Of course, if water is absorbed into the hydraulic system, it will settle in the lowest points, and begin to rust or corrode metal parts, both aluminum and steel. One can flush the hydraulic systems every year or two to purge the system of water contaminated fluid. However, I think that using silicone fluid is a much better solution. Install the silicone fluid and forget it. Since silicone fluid does not absorb water there are no more corroded hydraulic parts, and silicone doesnt eat paint if you accidentally spill some. As I have stated before, I believe silicone brake fluid to be vastly superior to anything else, and highly recommend it's use in our British hydraulic systems. Use of silicone fluid makes the hydraulic system last for unbelievably lengthy periods of time! Cheers, Glenn
Glenn

Here is an article about silicone (DOT-5) vs. DOT-3&4 fluids. http://www.xs11.com/tips/maintenance/maint1.shtml


Steve

I have been using silicone brake fluid in my MGA as well as two vintage Triumph motorcycles for many years with absolutely no problems.
@20? years ago there was a spate of problems involving rubber seals swelling when used with silicone. This apparentlywas caused by old stock using material incompatable with the silicone. Since that time there have been no problems I am aware of.
Both my motorcycles have been using silicone for 20 plus years on the same master cyl. and calipers. The MGA has gone nearly that long since its last re-hone
John
John

The real advantage of silicon fluid is it does not attack paint. Any fluid kept clean and fresh is safe. Only silicon wont screw up your paint.
R J Brown

This thread was discussed between 23/11/2006 and 28/11/2006

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