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MG MGA - cracked paint

Hi all , my MGA was respayed in 1980 in wht looks like Ivory cellulose paint, which was put on too thick I would imagine resulting in crazing paving effect over most of the body I know the only proper way to sort this is to have it bare metal sprayed but this is not financialy possible and I wondered if anyone here might have a clever idea of how to fill in or reduce the effect of these cracks I have tried filling with paint and then rubbing back down even thought of using tipex the cracks not really wide enough to take the paint


gordon
g c pugh

You will never get paint into cracks. Painting over cracks only leads to more cracks in short order. Paint thick enough to be cracking must be removed.
Barney Gaylord

Gordon, there is hope! Going back over twenty years, I had severe cracks (looked like a dried oasis) over the entire body of my midget after I painted cellulose over many previous coats of various unsympathetic paint. I filled and lightly sanded the car down and sprayed an isolator coat. I then primed flatted and resprayed the car in two pack. The results were pretty much perfect and lasted without any signs of crazing or other problems untill I sold the car several years later. It was my everyday car and kept out in all weather too. I can probably scan some old photos, but pictures can always make a car look good.
Neil McGurk

Hi Barney, & Neil thanks for info I was trying to do something to make it look a bit better as any major work is not possible without lottery win lol


gordon
g c pugh

I sprayed my A (acrylic lacquer) in '73 and over the years it has cracked, fine hairline cracks. I have been able to very carefully sand and (hand) buff using 1,000 and 1,500 grit with a padded sanding block to get below the cracks. It has turned out well, there was enough paint, watching carefully for color change and using a soft pad between the sandpaper and the block and lots of water (rain drip emitters work well) to keep the area rinsed. Be conservative, try it in an inconspicuous area first. When the polymer paints first came out it was understood that this technique was not possible, I proved it can be done by doing the Unlimited Reno air Racer, Sea Fury "Critical Mass" in the mid '90's. The term used by custom paint shops is "Cut and Buff" for search. That airplane was SHINY!! So is my MGA.
Russ

Russ Carnes

Hi Russ,

I have tried gently rubbing down using fine wet and dry but the cracks are too deep going down to the undercoat, by coincidence my father flew Sea Furies with the Royal Navy before, during and after the Korean war



Gordon
g c pugh

Yep. Looks like either enjoy the patina or paint job time!
I'll bet your Father has had some stories to tell about his experiences in the Royal Navy. Those were some proud times for our parents and for us all. Although that was the end of the piston powered fighter era, there are many restored examples of these rare birds around today. The Sea Fury was contemporary with the TD, TF, and MGA, the stock seat from the racer is upholstered much like an MGA seat, complete with the piping around the edges! The Critical Mass is being restored to a stock T-Mk-20 as we speak. Our 300+ hours of paint job was soda blasted off this last summer. It will be a fine restoration though. See:

http://www.thehomepylon.com/critical_mass_restoration_progress_01112008.htm

Russ
Russ Carnes

Hi Russ, the cracks don't look so bad now lol, you are right he doesn't say much about it when he does there are some interesting stories, he actualy prefered the Corsair and Hellcat as fighting planes he flew those during WW2


gordon
g c pugh

I didn't mean to hijack this thread, Gordon if you don't mind I'll email you. Corsair and Hellcat are quite the different animal from Sea Fury.
Russ
Russ Carnes

Gordon

You can afford it. Do what I did and take up evening classes in body refinishing. The college I went to had full workshop facilities, including ovens and safety spraying helmets. After the obligitory 12 weeks of instruction on stock panels, the instructors allowed us to bring in our own projects. I did all the stripping, filling and undercoating. I could also have done the top coat, but preferred to let an expert do it. Cost of the course (including the paint strippers, lead filler etc) was less than 100. I just had to pay for the 2-pack primer and 2-pack top coat. It was a very satisfying experience.

Steve
Steve Gyles

This thread was discussed between 18/10/2008 and 20/10/2008

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