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MG MGA - Crankshaft Replacement
|Does anybody within the US have an extra good crakshaft to a 1500/1600 either standard or .020 over they might be interested in selling? I would only be interested if it is really good shape!|
PS I am in the Phila Area and I would pick up the shipping?
|Sh*t Bill, what does that mean? Did you get a new motor with a bad crank?|
I hauled the MGA parts car to the bone yard last weekend with the engine/trans/rear still in place.
It is at Friendship Auto Parts, in Tabernacle, NJ 08088.
I can't say for sure if the crank is good but it might be worth yanking out.
|T, I yanked the "New" motor with the "Bad" con berings and will be "Returning" it to the previous owner for a "Refund". I'm not a happy camper right now! Decided to now trust no one and have a machine shop clean and work my 1600 block. The crank is iffy so I will either by new if I cannot find a good used one. I will also be checking all work from the machine shop along the way and do all assembling myself. As the "Who" so elequently put it! "I won't get fooled again, No No No!"|
PS; I can now pull a MGA motor in 26 min Flat!
|I have a buddy with a B, his engine went bad. I advised a rebuild. Wanting a cheaper solution, he bought a used engine. That went bad in a few months. I advised a rebuild. Still wanting a cheaper solution, he bought "rebuilt" engine online. I inspected it and it was basically crap. Honed cylinders, but still had the ridges on top of the bores. Pitted lifters, cracked and welded head. After I slapped him around a little bit, we took his orginal motor to a machine shop where the guy specializes in british engines. He figured he could do an overbore and rebuild for no more than $2000. If he had done that in the first place, he would have spent less money and been able to drive his car. I guess the writing's on the wall- there is no point in fitting a second hand engine in your car. Sorry you had such a bad experience Bill.|
|Mark J Michalak|
|Well I'm glad you are at least getting a refund. Good luck and let us know what the story is.|
|Wow, After removing the crankshaft from the engine with the guy that sold it to me it was discovered that the Brass inserts had come loose on two of the rods jurnials and worked there way out and damaged the bearing. Luckly they stoped running the engine on time as to not damage the jurnials. To his credit the crank was otherwise beautifully done. We suspect that when he had it "Chemically hardened" and cleaned, that it some how lossened up or desolved the brass fittings. Go figure! So let this be a warning to everyone who is having there cranked worked! He is being nice enough to sell me just the crank which I brought to have polished, checked, and have the inserts remove since there is really no need for them. I will be putting it in my newly conditioned 1600 block that has the macanical tach provisions which the other block did not. So Dominic, I will not need the elec. tach afterall but thanks a lot for your efforts!|
Boy, am I getting quite the education on Engines :)
|"He is being nice enough to sell me just the crank which I brought to have polished, checked, and have the inserts remove since there is really no need for them"|
Who says there is no need for them? Without them, you would starve the adjacent rods.
|PS - see http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/cs101.htm|
|Hey Bill, Yes I have read (and respected) Barney's option on this. But after reading it several time I concluded what my machinist has determined. That is that this 1950's technology was not neccessarly needed! As I looked around his michine shop at blocks from Lotus, Mg's, Austin Heally, and on and on, and his reputation as one of the premier vintage Race engine builders, I came to agree with his conclusion that these inserts were never needed and should be removed on re-builds. I think even Barny's comment kind of supports this. If it can't be proven to help, why risk the chance of failure! Just my opinion.|
Call me about the crankshaft.
|Hi WMR Bill|
I have a spare 1500 crank that has been Magna-fluxed and turned to .020 under. I have all the paper work from Crankshaft Supply that did the work. If you are interested email me at gary krukoski at yahoo dot com.
This thread was discussed between 07/08/2008 and 11/08/2008
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