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MG MGA - Dash starter cable

I installed a new starter cable; replacing one that wouldn't pull the starter switch enough to make contact & start the car; the end of the old cable connection to the starter switch was pretty chewed up.
Now that the new starter cable is installed, the dash starter cable knob pulls out about a quarter inch from the dash with absolutely no resistance to pulling it. When doing so, it does not affect in any way the tension of the cable that actually is connected to the starter switch. The knob just pulls & pushes in and out freely without affecting the cable tension.
It is only by pulling beyond that quarter inch, does the knob begin to actually pull the cable itself, allowing the car to start.
It drives me a bit batty; I'd like to eliminate that quarter inch free movement.
Any suggestions, comments?
Thanks..
Rick deOlazarra

Rick, see attached pic and circled area. Starter cable end should be inserted into a bracket that holds it in position and the braided wire inside the shell then attaches to the coupler, which then attaches to the starter switch. The cable shell itself can be shortened by carefully cutting it to length, but do not cut into the inner twisted wire or you will ruin the cable; pulling the inner cable out before cutting will prevent this. Clean up the cut end and insert it into the bracket. Then reinsert the inner cable and measure off how much needs to be cut so that once inserted into the coupler, there will be no play at the knob. Do be careful to not shorten the cable too much as this may start to pull back on the switch to make contact even when its at full resting position.





Nick Kopernik

Nick, looking at your photo makes me a little concerned. It may be the angle the photo is taken, but at least in the photo it looks like your oil cooler line is fixed to the inner wheel arch very close to its union with the engine. Does this not stress the line and union with normal engine rocking and movements?
The original MGA lines use rigid pipes from the oil cooler into the engine bay, which are secured to the inner wheel arch, and then unsecured flexible lines.
The MGB Mk I (which of the MGB's I am most familiar with), used flexible lines throughout. These were secured to each other with a couple of figure-8 like straps, and, on the very early MGB's, there was also a metal strap running between a rear generator bolt to one of the lines.
With radiator hoses there is one fixed end and one moving end. But there is enough of an arc in the radiator hoses to allow for this movement. The corrugated style radiator hoses allow for still more movement.
It looks to me, as it appears in your photo anyway, that your oil line should have a longer length between its clamp and its union.

Please do feel free to correct me. I am always very happy to be corrected.
T Aczel

You do have eagle eyes, but the photo I attached is not that of my car; its just one stock image where there was a fairly clean shot of the starter switch & bracket. As it relates to the oil cooler lines, I agree, original style would have consisted of rigid steel lines from the oil cooler to the inner fender area, and then short flex lines attached to the engine. The challenge is that original steel lines are no longer available so replacement is typically with all flex hose.
Nick Kopernik

Actually Nick, the original style MGA oil cooler hard lines are still available, or at least they were a few years back, from MOCAL.
My MGA still had its original 10 row oil cooler when I bought it, (standard for our Australian market locally assembled MGA MK II cars), but the pipes and hoses had been lost. I tracked a set down from MOCAL. Subsequently an acquaintance who restores MGA's full time bought several more sets, including in his case with 10 row coolers. In the end we bought so many he obtained a modest discount on the purchase price!

If you scroll down this page you will see what I bought.
https://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/of105.htm
T Aczel

Nick;
Thank you for the time & effort put into your response.
I have to admit, though, that I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around the logic; it would seem that it'd only serve to lessen, in a miniscule way, any curve in the cable from the dash to the starter switch.
I don't know; the older I get, the harder it is to visualize things in a logical manner.
It's an approach that hadn't occurred to me and I'll be keeping it in mind.
Again, thanks for your help..
Rick deOlazarra

Nick;
I didn't alter the outer shell, but instead just cut the inner cable to the right length to insure the dash knob is flush against the dash. It's just the way it should be now & works perfectly. Sometimes the most obvious solution escapes me unless someone else points it out.. ;)
Rick deOlazarra

This thread was discussed between 28/11/2022 and 04/12/2022

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