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MG MGA - Easy Drainable Drip Catcher
|I got tired of changing the "Depends" (and throwing oil-soaked paper towels in the trash!) so I used an old 1 gallon can with a cap to make the drip tray. Used an idea posted here before and added steel wool to stop sloshing.|
Very period-looking effort. For me, it has more appeal to it than some of the purpose made trays that have been posted previously. 10 out of 10.
A classic example of how we treat the consequence of a problem instead of curing the cause. Although, of course, BMC did go on to eventually cure the problem on the 5-bearing 1800 with the rear oil seal instead of the scroll.
Don't forget the mga twin cam, it had a rear crankshaft seal in 1958.
See item 34 in attached image.
|M F Anderson|
|For Mick. |
That's very interesting! I ignorantly thought my Twin Cam engine had the usual "drip a bit" rear oil seal which has always done just that, for a short while when stopped hot after a journey. Not a lot but always. I believe the engine is in reasonably good condition, but it does it. Virtually every Twin Cam owner I have met has talked "affectionately" of this characteristic of the car, and Bob West has warned me of it also.
The question is therefore, is the TC engine rear seal meant to be effective? Or is it actually just mine that leaks?
Grateful for your thoughts.
there is an oil seal but if fitted the crank is jammed and will never turn.
Got it from B&G lately.
|Good job Steve from Solvang, Here is my proto type first try at something similar. It hung down too low and if you went over a speed bump the drain valve would begin to open. Not necessarily a bad thing mind you. Even though I thought this looked cool with an extra radiator petcock it was too risky with my teenage daughter driving the car. Not enough clearance.
|Here is what proto type two looks like in situ on the 1500. It attaches to the bottom two tranny bolts. Clearance is not a problem. I will need to use a wrench to remove the drain plug. So far it is working like a champ.
The crankshaft rear oil seal for the MGA Twin Cam is always supplied overlength as yours was. It must be cut to the correct length. If you fit the whole seal it will jam the crankshaft as you said. Worse stil it can crack the edge of the cylinder block when you tighten the rear main bearing cap. The skill of fitting these asbestos rope type seals was the hallmark of a top mechanic before the 1950's.
Yes, most MGA Twin Cams can have the dreaded MGA crankshaft rear oil leak. This is because the seals require skilled fitting, they wear with time, and if there is is a little too much clearance in the rear main bearing, the seal is pushed away from the shaft and tends to not recover it's shape. Neoprene lip seals recover their shape very effectively.
I have always complained that the MGA Twin Cam factory Workshop Manual does not deserve it's name.
Triumph Workshop Manuals show you how to fit this type of seal.
|M F Anderson|
|Now I need to add a fluid level indicator so I remember to empty it! (And take the handle off.)|
learned my lessons on XPAG engines.
The asbestos seal is NLA. The seal now available comes as a ring which needs to be forced in the groove - needs to be cut in the centre, but the inside diameter is at least 3mm to small and there is no way to work on the material.
I'm experiencing the bug that prevents seeing pictures if they are in the first comment in a thread. Can you post the picture again please....
|Great idea. is it just the two bolts we can see?|
|Dominic - Here is the pic posted again. (By the way, side curtains I bought from you worked out great!)|
Nigel - Yes, the "can" is held on by the two bolts at the bottom of the tranny bell housing/back plate joint. I had to use longer bolts and double nuts to allow enough space in front of the cross member.
This thread was discussed between 31/08/2008 and 04/09/2008
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