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MG MGA - Eezibleed

I have just replaced a failed clutch slave cylinder, but haven't been able to get any fluid through when trying to bleed it - just air.
Reading the archives, it looks like eezibleed is the way to go but it seems that it comes with 4 plastic caps that are all metric sizes (i.e. 25, 27, 44/45, and 46mm). Does anyone know if one of these will fit the MGA standard master cylinder please?

Thanks
Graham V

Hi Graham,

I'm pretty sure that I have the original "raised" master cylinder reservoir & cap. The 25mm cap that was supplied with my eezibleed fits perfectly. Hot tip: don't forget to remove the pressure before removing the cap.

Richard
R A Evans

Yes, I have the same experience as Richard. Make sure the seals are all in place and that the ferrule is tight on the cap
Dominic Clancy

Thanks Richard and Dominic.
That’s good to know. Since my post, I actually managed to get the fluid flowing through, by reverse bleeding (connecting the brake bleed valve to the clutch slave valve, pressing the foot brake, and forcing fluid in to the slave through its bleed valve.). I think I learnt about the technique from Barney’s site.
But I think it still has some air in it as the pushrod doesn’t move too far, I’m guessing just about 2cm. Should be double this, shouldn’t it?

So I think the eezibleed will still be the way forward, so thanks.

Graham V

2cm is quite a lot.

Ive just finished bleeding clutch and brakes. This is what my Eezibleed kit contains. I dont know if newer ones are different.


Dave O'Neill 2

It also helps if you can push the piston back into the cylinder to get rid of any air within the cylinder itself. Use some strong wire to hold it there while bleeding.

I only use my Eezibleed to pressurise the system. I don't fill the bottle with fluid, having had a leak from the cap, once, and also, on another occasion, my brake master cylinder had a pin-hole in the top, which resulted in a jet of fluid spraying all over the wing. It does mean that I have to keep stopping to refill the m/c, but it's safer that way.



Dave O'Neill 2

My way to clutch bleed is to fill M/C, press clutch and hold down with concrete block weight, open bleed screw a tiny amount, leave overnight with small jar catch underneath...hey presto, next morning a fully bleed clutch.
Gary Lock

I can hold my hands up also for an under bonnet spray job. Easily done. At least with my silicone fluid no damage was done and I have the bonus of a rust protection covering. Also a good soak of the wiring loom in that area to keep the Lucas smoke slippery.

Steve
Steve Gyles

Thanks for the posts.
Gary I really fancied your idea, but in the end was nervous I would come down in the morning to a pool of brake fluid.
So I took the advise from th eothrs and bought an eezibleed. Very reasonable price, just under £20.
Had a couple of problems as the rubber seal didn’t fit the cap properly so had to cut it down. Then the tyre valve connector wouldn’t lock on my spare, as the wheel’s protruding valve wasn’t long enough. Took a tyre off my other MG which worked fine.

Strangely when I set it all up (didn’t bother to fill the bottle with fluid) and opened the bleed valve, I had a stream of fluid into my jam jar, but no air bubbles to be seen. So I thought it a complete waste of time, but when I tried the foot pedal, what bliss, it was as hard as a rock!
So I am now a convert to eezibleed.

Thanks for the help everyone.
Graham V

I always 'reverse bleed' the clutch slave by pumping the slave cylinder push-rod in and out (still attached to the clutch actuating arm). No hassle, no mess, done in under five minutes.




Lindsay Sampford

Lindsay
Out of interest, as you say reverse bleed, I assume you are saying you do that without even opening the bleed valve but by forcing the air upwards?
Graham V

That's right Graham, just push all the air up and out through the master cylinder. Air rises easier than trying to push it down and out. It is unbelievably easy!
Lindsay Sampford

So how does that actually work Lindsay?

Does the action of pushing the slave cylinders push-rod pump fresh brake fluid through the the system?

I am only curious because I have had major problems bleeding the clutch cylinder in the past and your method sounds like it could save me a lot of time.

Cheers
Colyn.

(good to see you on here again)
Colyn Firth

Colyn
I am sure Lindsay will be along soon and clarify, but as I understand it, it is not a case of pumping new fluid through the system, more a case of pushing/squeezing the air up into the master cylinder and hence out through the top.
Graham V

A while ago I had the same clutch problem and Lindsay answered my plea. I tried his solution and got a good working clutch after pushing the rod until the noise of air escaping through the uncapped m/c stopped. Thankyou Lindsay.
Brian
Brian Paddon

Apart from an installation bleed in 1997 I have never had to bleed the clutch. This is despite replacement master cylinders, new seals etc. I have always simply connected everything up, topped up the MC and let it stand. Mind you, it has not been the same with the braking circuit. Frequently bled that over the years with Eezibleed for one reason or another.

One thing I learned with Eezibleed not mentioned above is to deflate the tyre to about 10 psi before connecting up (as instructed). Much higher than that leaves you liable to leaks around the cap.

Steve
Steve Gyles

Steve
That reminds me of a forum posting, maybe on this site, I cant remember.
Someone asked for help - they bled their brakes using eezibleed, which resulted in a good firm pedal, but asked why their brakes were pulling.

The answer?............You're probably ahead of me here, they forgot to top up the tyre after using the eezibleed!

Graham V

Graham

I use the spare wheel from the boot that I keep only partially inflated anyway. Fits in and out of its cut out much easier with little air in it. Just have to remember to keep a pump in the boot!

Steve
Steve Gyles

Hi Colyn, pumping the slave cylinder in pumps the air out and up and the fluid comes down (aided by gravity) to replace the air on the out stroke. If I remember, it only takes about four strokes (in and out) to do it. Believe me, it is easy!
When doing it the 'traditional' way you trying to defy the nature by forcing air to go down and fluid to rise.
Lindsay Sampford

Haven’t had a reason to do it for a long while but my trick has always been to have a bit of a go bleeding it conventionally and then leave it for 24 hours Another wick bleed and it’s fine. I had never really thought about why this works but it is as Lindsay says gravity doing the job.

Paul
Paul Dean

This thread was discussed between 23/11/2019 and 02/12/2019

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