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MG MGA - Engine installation
|I am about to load the engine and gearbox combo into the chassis. Do I need to remove the gearstick or the rear extension, or do I just need to tilt the motor more? See pic.
|Will be much easier with the gear stick removed.|
And it is pretty straight forward to refit the stick once the gearbox is in place.
If you leave the stick in place you will have to probably raise the car further off the floor than is practical and even then you may not have enough clearance.
|The gear stick will have to come off. It's no big deal to remove the stick, under the large rubber grommet there is a large circlip, pull it out and the gear stick is pushed up by the spring under it. There should be a small ball bearing on a spring right at the very bottom of the stick. This stops the lever from wobbling. Watch out for it when you lift the lever. In all probability, the spring and ball will be missing. When the gearbox is in situ, refitting the stick is straight forward.|
|OK guys the stick is coming off.|
|Remove four bolts to lift off the remote shift extension assembly. That way you won't lose the spring loaded anti-rattle ball from the lower lever (assuming it was there in the first place). If the anti-rattle ball and/or spring is missing the hand lever will vibrate enough to drive you batty right at highway cruising speed, about 3500-4500 RPM engine speed.|
|Oh, I forgot. You have to remove the tunnel top cover to service the extension assembly bolts.|
|Thanks Barney. The top cover is not on yet, so I have a fair amount of room to play with. The spring ball is in the rod and it was a tight fit. I think the extension removal will be easier - the lever circlip was a bitch.|
Remove the extension as indicated by Barney, but be careful that the ball is properly located in the selector rod when refitting. The four fixing bolts can exert a lot of torque on the rod if the ball is not in the socket, and lead to cracking the gearbox casing. Guess how I know this!!!!!!!!
|Thanks Peter. I am aware of what you say.|
|Aaarrgh! Just got the motor all snugly in and all 9 mounting bolts tightened, then find that the access to the front two extension mounting bolts is really tight, no room for my 1/2" socket set. Should have mounted the extension while the engine could be slid back another 1/4". Plan is to cut a clearance pocket in the tunnel, which will be hidden by the top cover.|
|Art, Your comment, |
"Should have mounted the extension while the engine could be slid back another 1/4" --
That is correct. I have a bent spanner that makes it a little easier but it is difficult.
Cutting a little from the tunnel will not be seen once the cover is replaced.
|Art, it is tight but possible with the right spanner. If I remember rightly, I used a fairly flat ring spanner when I did mine.|
|I replaced those two bolts with socket head allen cap screws. Then all you need is an allen wrench to tighten them up.|
This thread was discussed between 20/07/2010 and 26/07/2010
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