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MG MGA - Engine Rebuild Parts
I'm getting around to finally getting our Mk II Coupe in running order again.
A sheared #11 head stud was what took us off the road several years ago after a fresh rebuild. The oil pressure had always been high after the rebuild and after opening everything up I found tell tale signs of oil starvation to the main bearings. Brand new crankshaft and new bearings all out the door. Back then I was in high school and wasn't quite as knowledgeable (or maybe I should say confident) about putting a lower end together properly. I'm going to do it myself so I only have myself to blame if it goes wrong this time!
I'm sure I'll have more questions before I actually get things started next month, but right now I'm just trying to get a few questions answered regarding parts suppliers.
The last rebuild I did, I had Moss supply everything except the tappets. Folks here recommended a British supplier which I did wind up using. I would reuse the tappets but when I was pulling things apart they all got scrambled (AH!). So I don't know which one went where. So, my question is if you folks are still recommending the British supplier. If so, who is that supplier?
The next question is that since I'm replacing tappets, I'm thinking of running a hotter cam. Is there something out there a little sportier than stock and what's the tradeoffs of the hotter cams?
I replaced the valve springs <500 miles ago. If I replace a cam with something hotter is there guidance to go with stiffer springs or valve train items? I'm not looking to go too crazy here, but figure if I'm going to pony up for a new camshaft, maybe we can pick some low hanging fruit.
Thanks for the help. Like I said, I'm sure I'll have some more questions to ask soon enough.
|Don't know who your British supplier was but your are in Califorina, speed capital of the world. |
I would give APTfast a call very helpful. http://www.aptfast.com/ They grind cams using new blanks anything from mild to wild and can supply hardened tappets (later 18V type use with longer pushrod) along with uprated springs.
The only guidance you need is an experience engine builder. There is so much you need to know when you get to messing around valve lift and duration, alot depends on what you want to do with the engine and RPM it will be running. Good thing is these engines have been around quite awhile and there is a wealth of information out there. Since you are not going too wild a phone call to someone such as APT can steer you right.
|I updated my info prior to posting to show I was in Ohio now, but for some reason I can't shake the California off my info or my desire to live there and not in Ohio...!|
Anyway, I completely agree with the idea that there is lots of homework already done and that that needs to definitely be referenced unless I plan to reinvent the wheel for myself.
My thoughts right now are to just throw Moss' hot cam and "uprated" pushrods and tappets and call it bueno. Was curious if anyone has gone that route for their Sunday drive-mobile.
|I went down exactly that road with my 1588 engine.|
Fitted a Piper 270 duration fast road cam and the 18v tappets and pushrods. I used the original valve springs and rockers.
It all came as a kit with a vernier cam sprocket, cam card and duplex chain from Piper in the UK
The only other thing I did was to have the crank, flywheel, rods, pistons and clutch balanced. The best thing I ever did to that engine. It goes like a rocket and is as quiet as a mouse.
This thread was discussed between 22/08/2011 and 25/08/2011
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