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MG MGA - exhaust mount

Hi all
I am in the process of rebuilding my chassis. The rear exhaust mount on the chassis is broken off and I need to make another. I am hoping that someone has a pic or drawing of the mount that I can use. I need the part of the mounting that is welded on to the rear of the chassis, not the rubber mount.
M S Randell

Matthew, these people could probably help you, give them an E-mail.
Lindsay Sampford

Here is a picture. Width is the same as the rubber mounted attachment. The bracket stands about 1.5 cm proud of the tube. Do you need height dimensions of the holes relative to the bottom of the tube?


PS. Bit of a clean up and paint required. Just done the front end.

Steve Gyles

Get hold of a piece of card and draw a rectangle ABCD on it with AB horizontal and 2.25" long and AD vertical and 1.75" long (A is on the left). Draw two 0.25" diameter circles approx. 1.5" apart horizontally, one near point D and the other near B about a half inch in from the edges of the rectangle. These are the two exhaust mount fixing holes which you can easily get more accurately from your mount.
From point A draw a line 30 degrees from the horizontal to the left roughly 2" long. Do the same from point D. Repeat this with 2" lines from points B and C to the right at the same 30 degree angle. Cut this out of the card and fold the left hand 'wing' forward (towards you) by 90 degrees about AD. Likewise fold the right wing forward about BC.
This is your bracket pattern which you will have to cut from 16 gauge mild steel and weld to the 2" diameter tubular cross member (TCM). Take note of the following:-
1. When welded the bottom side AB will be horizontal and approx. 7/8" below the TCM. Also it will be approx. 7/8" to the rear of the TCM. You may have to adjust the 30 degree angle to achieve these two measurements.
2. You will of course have to cut out 2" diameter portions from the outside of the 'wings' so that they will conform to the TCM. If you do this on the card you can then transfer the pattern to the 16 gauge plate.
You've probably got witness marks on the TCM giving the position but if not weld it so that at its closest it is 2" away from the frame side.
When I get my camera battery charged I'll see if I can take a picture. Mike
m.j. moore


I think you deserve your Blue Peter Badge for that.

Steve Gyles

Blue Peter Badge? There are SO many ways that could be taken out of context here in the States.:)
Pray tell...whatever does it mean?

G T Foster

OK, I couldn't wait...looked it up myself..

Blue Peter Badge..a much coveted award for Blue Peter viewers, given by the children's television programme for those appearing on the show, or in recognition of achievement.

Gotta love that there Internet....

G T Foster

You have got it GTF. Our Blue Peter is famed for making things out of paper, cardboard tubes, sticky tape and glue.

Steve Gyles

Or as John Noakes would say:

"....for making things out of paper, cardboard tubes, Sellotap...oops! almost said it again - STICKY tape and (get down Shep!) glue"

They don't make them like that any more!
Neil McGurk

I'll claim it only if it fits, Steve!
Actually I also still have my cardboard patterns for the front duct panel brackets which are very similar if anyone is interested. Mike
m.j. moore

Gerry, whatever were you thinking of ;) BTW, happy New Year!

G Goeppner

Thanks Lindsay, Steve Mike et al.
Very useful info. Helpful pic Steve. Tells a great deal.
Mike, great instructions (I think) reminds me of the Tamiya plastic kits I used to make in the 'seventies.
I'll follow the instructions carefully. Should be an easy part to make.
I'm doing a complete rebuild of the car. I've welded in new sills (thanks Barney) and removed the body from the chassis. The later is now stripped ready for the sand blasters.
If anyone's interested, here's a pic of progress so far.

M S Randell

Looking good Matthew! We love pictures! The body looks good too. You probably know, but whatever you do, do not blast the doors, bonnet and boot. Also take great care with the wings.

Neil McGurk

Don't allow the use of sand to blast any part thinner than the frame. There are special media for bodies. Never blast any Aluminum as Neil states. I used a company that GLASS bead blasted my body with no damage. SAND blasting stretches and warps the body panels.
R J Brown

neil and Rob
thanks for that info. Yes I know sand blasting is tricky. I have restored three vintage cars in the past and learned that lesson the hard way. Still a reminder is always helpful. Might try soda on some body panels but most of the body, certainly the aluminium, will be hand stripped. Hard work but worth it.
M S Randell

This thread was discussed between 05/01/2010 and 06/01/2010

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