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MG MGA - Filling the steering rack
|I had one of the gaiters split and leak the oil out.|
This weekend I'll be reassembling everything.
The last time I filled it, I had the radiator out, took out the zerk fitting and slowly poured oil in.
I don't want to take the radiator out this time. So what's the trick to this? The good news is that the zerk had a 45 degree angle and appears accessible if there is a long enough pipe from the grease/oil gun.
Thanks as always,
|Tysen, the way I normally fill the rack with oil, (gear oil remember), is by using a medium size syringe and pumping the oil through one of the rubber gaiters. You can insert the needle between the gaiter and the rack itself. Make sure you pump the oil from the top of the rack so that the oil doesn't leak back out again. This is a very simple procedure.During the oil pumping you can turn the steering wheel back and forth so you can hear the oil gurgling inside the gaiter.|
My system is well documented in the archives and not for the purists. I used an MG pre war concept and installed a self oiling system. I drilled out the oilers and attached tubing that runs up the side of the radiator. I just pour oil down the tubes as and when.
|I attached a long pipe to an oil can that reaches down to the zerk (grease nipple). See pic
|Some great ideas on filling the rack however, how do you know when you reach the correct level?|
|George that is a good question. If the rack is completely empty, you can measure 6 fluid ounces of oil in a container and pour or pump it all in slowly. But, if there is some oil already in the rack, you won't be able to know the quantity, unless of course you drain it all out one way or the other.|
|I do as intended and put the oil in grease gun.|
|With correct amount of oil in the rack, when you swing it from lock to lock you can her the oil gurgling in and out of the boots on the ends.|
|Supercheap Autos sell an ideal oil can for this job in Oz for a few bucks. |
|Steve Gyles, going back to your post on this subject, you say that you drilled out the zerks and attached a length of pipe. You then pour the oil down the pipe straight down to the rack. My question is: does some oil pour out again from the zerks, or do you block the system somehow?|
Thanks, I am now off to my local Supercheap. Been trying all different methods.
|S P Rossetto|
No leaks in last 15 or so years. I modified one of the zerks by soldering a brass extension tube before putting the tubing on.
Nowhere for the oil to leak to other than into the rack. Gravity then keeps it there. Does not come back up the tubes.
If there are no leaks then why do you need to keep pouring oil into the rack. Thought that once the rack is charged with the correct amount of oil then that is it. By constantly pouring oil in you must be liable to over fill as you have no way of knowing how much oil is still in the rack.. Probably a good idea to stop any leaks then you would not have to keep pouring in more oil !!
|A J Dee|
|Frank and others who use the syringe method through one end gaiter - just a little more detail please. Picture of this syringe and its "needle"? Also, presumably you undo the clamp around the larger diameter end of the rubber gaiter and go in at its top edge? Must be a slow process? Just curious. I have used the method of unscrewing the two nipples and pumping oil in both via an oil gun with long flexible tube. Also messy and slow!|
|I use just an ordinary oil gun with a thin rigid pipe and slide it in the narrow end of the boot.|
|Chris at Octarine Services|
|This sort of oil can
|Chris at Octarine Services|
I was trying to address Frank's comments. I was assuming he was talking about leaks around the zerk and nipple of which I have none. I only top up like everyone else. Just a different method.
|I do the Samens Chris|
|Ditto Chris and Dominic except I don't get dirty.|
|Chris - just final dumb question on this. So, to be clear, you undo the outer small gaiter clamp and simply shove the oil can's spout into the gap? No problems splitting the rubber? Thanks. |
No problem sticking the oil can spout in, just use a small flat screwdriver to open up enough to get pipe in. Rubber boot stretches without tearing - put 125 mls in each side if empty that way it doesn't flow back out around the pipe (put it at the top).
Remove the screen in the suction pipe of the SCA oil can as makes pumping 90 grade oil easier.
Using a syringe of medium size will be a rather slow process, only if you are filling an empty rack. The rack is usually filled with oil, or should be. I only use the syringe method to top up the oil, which will only take a few minutes. Filling an empty rack will take a little longer, but considering the amount of oil to put in, (6 fluid ounces), the process will normally take about 30 minutes or so.
Simply loosen the gaiter clamp just a tad, insert the needle and tighten clamp again. This method is not messy at all.
I was looking for the syringe to send you a picture, but I have misplaced it or possibly ended up in the thrash. But you can buy a syringe easy enough. Get a medium or even a large one.
|Thanks everyone for the responses. All now clear so I will try it. |
This thread was discussed between 07/04/2017 and 11/04/2017
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