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MG MGA - Fitting Rebound straps
|I have my frame on jackstands and today I tried to fit the rebound straps. The straps are 9" long but the mounting studs are 11" apart. Do I need to wait until after I re-install the body to attach the straps? Thanks|
|Leaf spring spring rate is 125 lb/in, x2 springs. You need to apply about 500 pound load on the frame to lower it 2 inches.|
|New springs Joe?|
|Boy, that brings back memories. I had my dad stand on the frame a push his hands up against the ceiling joist to compress each spring on one at a time. I think we also piled a bunch of cement blocks on top for extra weight.|
|Are you implying the rear body should weigh about 500 lb?? I have the same issue using original springs (over 50 years old and was thinking the aftermarket straps are wrong size or that my new straps were possibly off an MGB...are they the same size?|
|Not just the body, but all body panels, rear bumper, fuel tank, fuel, spare tires, tools, batteries, carpet, rag top, and everything else that makes up curb weight. In the end it weighs about 1000 pounds on each axle. If you were curious you could weigh it as is, but the bare frame does not provide much of a load on the springs.|
As a side note, for at least 15 years now replacement leaf springs have been notorious for being too tall.
|Mark, the straps are different from MGA to CB MGB to RB MGB. Rubber bumper MGB straps are the longest, and chrome bumper straps are close to, but not the same as, the MGA. Moss has the technical info for their straps on their website, which lists the length for each application. |
My rebuilt springs were slightly too tall - 5/8"- which was causing the axle to lift in hard cornering. I tried an experiment: I installed shock links and rebound straps from a rubber bumper MGB. They result was positive: I eliminated the negative effects of having the straps run out of travel, and they still perform their job of stopping the axle before the shock arm runs out of travel. In the upward direction, the rubber bump stops the axle with over 1" to spare between the shock and frame.
So in summary, fitting longer straps does you no good, but longer straps and links as a pair will solve the problem.
|Mark J Michalak|
|This is interesting . My A since restoration bangs really loud from the rear axle area when going down potholes. Is it just possible it has B shocks and or rear links and this is cuasing the rear lever shocks to bottom out?|
You might check that the mounting bolts on the shocks through the chassis are tight. Sometimes they come loose and can make a knocking type noise.
Also check the U-bolts on the springs are tight. The rubber pad can compress over time.
|Longer rebound straps and shock links might allow the rear axle to hit the exhaust system on full drop. To check for this condition, raise the rear of the car, place stands under the frame, and let the rear axle drop full down to hang on the rebound straps. If it hits the exhaust pipe you need shorter straps, of maybe some custom hangers to lower the pipe a little.|
|I posted recently regarding the totally ineffective check straps that I bought from Moss Europe and I finally got a response from Moss:|
"...have spent a fair amount of time investigating the various issues involved in manufacturing this part and also the alternative options available.
I think you will probably agree that most if not all of the alternatives available in the UK perform either the same or worse than those sold by Moss Europe. Moss are exclusive on the ones we sell as we do not buy them from our competitors.
There are alternative styles available from around the world ,but not mass produced only made to order out of seat belt type webbing and my feeling is that if they didnít rot out in a relatively short time they would rip out the mountings on the body as they have no elasticity at all.
We are currently in discussion with an alternative source as to whether they can supply an improved product over our current stock."
I assume he means "chassis" not "body" and I am not sure I agree with that paragraph anyway... ...But I would highly recommend anyone who has not checked (whether your check straps function or not) to do as Barney describes in the post above.
|The rubber ones are useless.|
Soak the daylights out of the lower strap stud with kroil or Liquid wrench, use heat if you are the least bit suspicious, you really do not want the issues of trying to fix a broken one.
Rusty sells a great strap lots of people will attest to though I have not personally used his it is my intention to do so next time. About $30 USD a set if I remember correctly. Made in the USA.
here is his link
|Easily resolved. Don't fit the re-bound straps until you get the body back on.. I broke a couple of sets of straps before I learnt this...|
|If rebound straps break during installation with body off, then will also break when driven, first time you get it airborn on a big bump and the axle goes to full drop. The rebound strap might also break during hard cornering with conditions that might lift a rear wheel off the ground. If the rebound straps break under any circumstances, don't bother trying to use them on the road.|
This thread was discussed between 02/11/2012 and 08/11/2012
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