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MG MGA - Flasher indicator light

My car is missing the flasher indicating light.
I ordered the Jewel only from moss thinking that is what I needed. Does anyone have a spare one lying around I can buy off them?
Moss's assembly is $32, which find quite steep for just a light bulb holder!
G Ramos

But then the new jewel from Moss does not fit the original housing thread. Original parts have 9mm thread. Replacement parts have 8mm thread.
Barney Gaylord

The jewels can be bought on eBay UK:

http://is.gd/a12vF

I bought one to try and it fits both the dashboard and the original holder perfectly.
Neil McGurk

G Ramos,
I used to have several extra aluminum bulb holders. I will check my spare parts stuff and let you know. Have a good day!

John
John Progess

Ok, Thanks John. Let me know otherwise I will continue my investigation.
G Ramos

Scarborough Faire sell just the bulb holder/w wire, part number (SS 53W) for $5.75! That's where I got mine.
Robert Maupin

Ok thanks. I have ordered a catalogue from them so I will look for it there.

G Ramos

Hey GR,
The MGA designers fitted the green lens perfectly so it is obscured from the driver by the steering wheel rim. You might see its reflection at night!
Is the delay working on your turn signal swtch?
Peter.
P. Tilbury

Yep the turn signal switch moves slowly back to the vertical position after turning it. However it does last more than 2-3seconds.
I just wanted the light to complete the dashboard so it doesn't look like there is something missing.
G Ramos

You can adjust the time it takes to return. In the back of the switch you will find a small slotted screw, in the centre. Under the screw should be a wad of cotton, or similar material. Put a little oil on this, and refit the screw. Adjusting the screw in or out will adjust the time - the tighter the screw, the longer the time. You are restricting the air going into the switch, and the return time of a leather piston inside it, by screwing the screw in.
These switches are quite expensive, so be careful.
Have fun.
Peter.
P. Tilbury

Ok, I will give it a go and try to set the delay to make it slightly longer.
G Ramos

Dear G.
Be careful how tight you turn the screw in the center. The housing is some type of ceramic and too much torque will crack it. I found out the hard way.
Lmazoway

If the time delay is still too short with the adjusting screw tight, the internal leather packing cup is likely dried out and leaking. This is fairly easy to fix as well. See here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/ts101.htm
Barney Gaylord

Hello,

As said above, be careful not to over tighten the screw, better to add some oil at the cotton wad, or if that doesn’t help, a bit of grease on the leather seal. As far as I remember from when I had my turn signal switch in hand, it’s made of Bakelite. More or less the first synthetic material (± 1908). A mixture of Phenol and formaldehyde. Very commonly used halfway the 20the century for all kind of casings. This because of its electrical isolating ability’s and easy way to produce in large quantity’s. However, it’s not so strong as we would like.
When I got my MGA, the turn signal switched off almost immediately. I found out that the leather sealing on the piston was dry and hard. (As suggested by Barney above) After soaking in turpentine, for quite a time, to dissolve the hardened oil, it went soft again. I did put a thin layer of tape underneath the leather seal to enlarge the circumference a bit and supplied plenty of silicone grease. The spring was still able to move the piston in its housing, and there was a good airtight sealing. After assembly, I added a new cotton wad, and after some adjusting, it worked perfect again.
I don’t know if the silicone grease was the best choice, (that’s what I had on hand at the time, and You will probably find the best way to do this on Barney’s site) but 10 years later, the switch is still working perfect.
R de Krom

Thanks Barney, I will follow the instructions...I'll see if the leather strip is the problem.
G Ramos

G,
When you dismantle the switch be careful not to drop any of the parts, especially some the screws. As we have heard on this site, all floors, and especially garage floors, will eat screws and other small bits! The screws go all the way through the switch, and the terminals can drop off the back of the switch. Also some of the small nuts will be loose in the housing.
Enjoy.
Peter.
P. Tilbury

Hi I always dismantle the turn signal switch over a cardboard shoe box, so any parts that drop off get caught! Replacementthreaded pars are almost impossible to obtain. Cheers, Glenn
Glenn Hedrich

When you get your aluminum sleeve for the turn signal indicator, I recommend that you drill and tap a hole in it. I did mine on the side. Then run a ground wire from that tapped hole, to the chassis.

In the factory design, the indicator relies on the flat surface of the sleeve contacting the unpainted back of the dash panel for an electrical return path. This electrical connection requires tightening ( and keeping tight) the plastic jewel. This is not a very reliable electrical connection.

By adding a dedicated ground wire, you may save yourself from stripping out the jewel.
Chuck Schaefer

Ok, I will see if I can do that as soon as get the part. I am still waiting for the Scarbourgh faire catalogue.
G Ramos

Hi Gonzalo,

Epoch compliant, this kind of flasher unit may fit on an MGA:
http://cgi.ebay.fr/2cv--Centrale-clignotante-Scintex-203-4cv-Traction_W0QQitemZ280468685963QQcmdZViewItemQQimsxZ20100223?IMSfp=TL100223136001r18431

A straightforward swap. But you need to insert a serial resistor to adapt supply voltage to 6 Volts.
Guy RENOU

Yesterday I took appart the Flasher switch and overhauled it as per Mgaguru's instructions, it now has to soak in oil for a big, but I am confident it will work fine when I put it together. The casing an even the little felt dot were in perfect condition.

NOW.
I have question regarding the cable that should go to the flasher indicator light.
The obvious cable which is detached is a Green with White or Green with Brown (I have a doubt now). When I measure voltage accross I will give like 2V the first time upon flasher start and then dies down progressively as it continues. I guess that voltage should be closer to 12v right? or is the bulb a different rating?

The wiring diagram specifies a 'GL' which is a light green but that one currently plugs to the bottom of the flasher switch.
I have not traced all the wires yet back to the flasher unit but that is the next step.

Any ideas welcome.
G Ramos

For 1500 diagrams see here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/circ_f2.htm
For 1600 diagrams see here:
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/electric/circ_f3.htm
Wire colors are different for the switch, but always light green for the lamp.
Barney Gaylord

Thanks Barney. Got it!
G Ramos

This thread was discussed between 09/03/2010 and 18/03/2010

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