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MG MGA - Float chamber vent pipes – Divine design?

When I acquired my car I found the float chamber vent pipes on the carburettors (SU H4s) were terminated about 4” down the inboard side of the chamber directly above the heat shield. I thought this was a bit strange being so close to the exhaust manifold, but knowing as we do that MGAs were designed by God and how he design the female anatomy, I thought this was the way it was meant to be!
I eventually twigged after looking at a couple of well restored cars in our club that this wasn’t right! Thanks to Barney’s post on the subject,
http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/carbs/cb109.htm
I have now modified the copper vent pipes so they run down the outboard side of the float chamber and have extended them using silicone tubing 2.5 mm ID, 5 mm OD (that model planes and cars use for fuel lines)slipped onto to the pipe about 1/2" (holds firm).The silicone tubes go down the outside of the chassis rail and terminate behind the bottom wishbone. Maybe not concours or divine but I now feel safer! I hope this helps others.
Regards
Mike
Mike Ellsmore

Mike,
Be advised that silicone rubber will swell considerably when exposed to gasoline. You should ask the hobby dealer for the fuel tubing specifically used on larger gasoline powered models.
BOL.
Doug
D Sjostrom

I just installed 2 Moss # 251-250 on the coupe. They come in copper and need bent and cut to length. Easy job.
For my other car I am making new ones by unsoldering the broken pipes and soldering in 3/16 copper A/C line from the hardware store $1.10 per foot. I bought 10 feet, enough to do 4 or 5. The A/C line is soft and easier to bend than the Moss part. I am sure if I looked hard enough I could find 30 inch lengths of 3/16 hard copper tube.
For $5.00 worth of copper line you can repair both lines permanently and if you paint them it will look factory as the original line was steel.
R J Brown

RJ

Is it a problem bending the tubing without it creasing?

Looks like a job I should do on mine. When I rebuilt my car 10 years ago I exchanged my carbs for a refurbished pair and they came with the pipes chopped to about 2 inches. Had I had the knowledge at the time I would have insisted on the correct lengths.

Steve
Steve Gyles

I used copper line also, but when I was done bending them,I tinned them by using solid solder with brush on flux,then wiping the excess solder off with a damp rag and reheating where necessary. To do this you need a propane torch as you need alot of heat, but the results are worth it.Looks just like steel lines when done but won't rust or come off. Gary
gary starr

Steve- Over here you can buy benders that look like springs.You get the one for the size line you use,fits over the pipe and won't let the pipe kink when you bend it.They look like this- http://plumbing.hardwarestore.com/52-301-pipe-benders/tube-bending-spring-set--617785.aspx I'm sure you can get them there,but I think if your careful you can bend them by hand. Can't remember how I did mine,I have the benders so I must have used them.
gary starr

If you use "Hard" copper tube, like Moss does, you need a bender or a lot of care to not kink the tube. It can be done by hand but takes practice, patience and care.
The tube I bought from the hardware store today is flexible and easy to bend without kinking. I made two sets of tubes today in about 30 minutes.
The second set came out of the box of carburetor parts that I thought were original to a 1962 MK11. The ones off a 58 coupe had steel lines the ones I thought were original to the 62 were copper. Does anyone know for a fact if copper was ever used or not?
For safety's sake making them out of soft copper line is easy and cheap.
The front one is 24" the back one is 30".
R J Brown

This thread was discussed between 16/10/2006 and 17/10/2006

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