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MG MGA - Frame painting by 'hand'.
|Hey all, I now have a bare frame with wheels. I am considering hand painting the frame, back to front, replacing the suspension and brake components as I go forward.|
My question is this: Which of the many primers and paints available would lend themselves to such an undertaking?
|I recommend an epoxy primer such as PPG Omni Au or PPG DP40. Both are similar, 2 part paints. The finish is very durable and waterproof. 2 coats will be good, plus 2 coats of black enamel. Are you sandblasting the old paint / rust? If so, apply the primer straight away.|
I recommend a product called POR 15. No primer is needed, apply directly to bare metal. A little light surface rust makes it adhere even better. Put it on with a foam brush. It flows out extremely well. This stuff is very hard, very durable, but very glossy. While it is still tacky, apply a coat of Rustoleum Satin Black. I think you'll be very happy with the result.
|G T Foster|
|I second the recommendation for POR-15. They also market an MG Maroon for the engine.|
|Look up "MasterseriesCT", for their Masterseries MCU silver primer. |
Better than POR by far, and you can topcoat it with anything, and much cheaper. They also have topcoats, but the primer is sufficient under nearly anything. Near as I can tell, everything he claims is true. If you clearcoat the silver primer, you get an excellent finish for MGA wheels.
Pay attention to the info on humidity and putting it in small containers when you are doing small bits at a sitting. I've had it last a couple of years on the shelf when sealed up as he says. DO NOT put a spray gun away unless it is surgically clean, or you will be buying a new one!
A good guy, and less than 50 miles from you.
|rustoleaum red rusty metal primer is great and sticks to anything - then topcoat with satin rustoleum black.|
I'd do two coats of each.
Mine is holding up well.
JIM in NH
|I've brushed on two coats of gloss black Rustoleum, twenty-four hours apart for all chassi parts. Has lasted quite well. Marvin|
|Thanks, as usual for the advice. If I choose good old Rustoleum, how does it hold up to gas, oil or brake fluid spills? Thanks again, Tom|
Rustoleum is decent, but certainly affected by brake fluid and battery acid, gas maybe, depending on what they put in the gas this week.
Epoxies may be better, but not great unless the piece is chemically clean.
MCU is totally impervious to all of these, and nearly all other known chemicals. Methylene chloride will dissolve it eventually, and 30 days in acetone will soften it, but it gets hard again once removed. The MCU primer also functions as galvanizing does, due to the metal content. There will be no rust creep under it, even if scratched through to bare metal. It is specifically designed for poorly prepared substrates, like hand cleaned bridges and MGA frames.
|Hey FRM, I am sold after looking at their website. Your knowledge base is impressive. Thanks again, Tom|
You are welcome. I am most impressed by this stuff, one of very few products I've ever found that does what it says, and very well. I tried it in some odd and vicious places, like underside of a lawnmower, and it is amazing. Got some overspray on something and had to grind it off. And the thick stuff at the bottom really does make a superb finishing putty/pit filler. I haven't tried it as gas tank sealer yet, but I will.
Don't even think about buying gallons, unless you are actually painting bridges - it will set up after you open the can if exposed to humidity. But in small jars as suggested, I've had it last a couple of years. Foam brushes are wonderful.
Guy's name is Chuck, and it was the only time I ever got a greater than promised price reduction for quantity (6 qts), which he then lowered some more when I talked to him on the phone about a not price related issue, and then the actual bill was for less still! Saved about 30%!
VERY different from POR, which starts at double and seems to always want something more, and doesn't work as well.
|Sounds impressive - wonder if you can get it over here in UK?|
|FRM- I just ordered 2 qts on your recommendation.|
|Maybe this stuff resists brake fluid? they sell a clear version and say it resists all sorts of solvents but don't list DOT4 specifically.|
|"After curing for 7 days at room temperature, MasterSeries coated panels were subjected to various solvents and found to be extremely resistant. After 30 days exposure there was no failure or noticeable attack by solvents such as xylol, toluol, or other aromatics. Alcohols and glycols showed no attack. Also, ester solvents such as ethyl glycol acetate had no affect. Acetone softened the film after 10 days, although it hardened upon removal. Methylene chloride destroyed the film in two days. Gasoline diesel fuel and JP.4 jet fuel had no affect on the coatings."|
The alcohols, glycols, ester solvents pretty well covers any brake fluid. AG111 (includes the clear) is specifically listed for master cylinders and brake components. And, I think I tried GTLMA on the silver primer and nothing happened.
Chuck is easy to talk to, ask him.
|I second everything Millmore says except it didn't store well for me. One unopened can had to be thrown away after 1 year. It hardened in the can.|
This thread was discussed between 25/09/2011 and 30/09/2011
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