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MG MGA - Front damper studs

I've discovered that one of the threaded studs that fixes the front damper on has broken off flush. Any suggestions on how to get it out? No residual stud is sticking up. Short of removing the body, I can't see a way to get a straight shot at it.
Kemper

I had the same issue with a stuck stud. Lots of heat and a drill to get an Easyout into it was the only way to remove it. If the engine is out, it is JUST doable
dominic clancy

If you have the equipment put a nut over the broken stud and weld it to the stud thru the center of the nut. The heat will loosen it and the nut will give you something to turn it out with. Easy outs are usually nothing but trouble, and if you break one off you are in for some real fun.
John H

That's what I was thinking, John. I've done that with stuck/broken SU screws. Unfortunately, my mig welder won't fit, or more accurately, I can't see where I would be welding. I was hoping there was some secret access from the underside.
Kemper

Kemper,
There may be at least some of the stud showing from the inside of the crossmember. This will require you to remove the suspension and the spring cup inside the crossmember. To remove the shock you are almost to the point of removing the suspension anyway. Worth a try.

John
John Progess

I don't use easy outs ever! When they break they multiply the problem. A piece of hardened steel in the hole is hell. Snap-On sells under their bluepoint line, part # 1020, extractor sets that are not tapered. Drill all the way through and if these break you just drive them all the way through. I won't use or allow my mechanics to use tapered "easy outs" they cause more headaches than they solve.
That said I don't understand why you say there is an access problem. The two inner studs can be reached easily with a normal drill and 12 inch bits. the outer ones need an angle head drill to get under the fender. Both have lots of room. Use a SLOW speed on the drill it is easier to control and cuts better without burning up the bits. Keep it under 1000 rpm. No air drill.
The trick in getting out broken studs is centering the drill. Start with a center punch. Use a small bit to drill a pilot hole before using a larger one. The kit listed above comes with drill guides to help center.
This is one place where the factory got it wrong. The shocks should be mounted with bolts so you can slide the shock off. With the studs you have to lift it up and the body is in the way.
R J Brown

Once you get it out don't forget the antiseeze when you put it back together.
John H

This thread was discussed between 19/04/2007 and 20/04/2007

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