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MG MGA - Front fender bolting

I noticed last night that two bolt mounting holes are still empty on my front fenders. They are not accessible from under the fender because of the inner splash guards. I suppose I put the splash guards on before mounting fender and did not see those two holes. One on right and one hidden behind that metal flange on right are still empty, and also on the other side. any ideas on how to correct this without pulling fenders off again?
Thanks,
Harley

Harley Johansen

I don't see why you have to remove the fenders, just take off the splash guards, fit in the bolts, tighten them and fit the splash guards in place. You're done.

Frank
F. Camilleri

You will possibly have difficulties getting the wing piping to stay in place.

Yes you have to remove the splash plate to fit those bolts. The splash plate is simple enough to remove and refit without removing the wing. As you are no doubt now well aware the splash plates have to be fitted after the wings (fenders).
N McGurk

OK, thanks. i was fearing that whole process of fender piping again.
HJ
Harley Johansen

One end of the bonnet latch rod return spring (AAA 788) is attached to the more forward bolt. It may need to be a little longer bolt than the others as a washer and nut are needed.
David Werblow

Can someone post or email me a picture of the way the bonnet latch rod return spring is connected please.

I have been living without that for years now.
S P Rossetto

Perhaps other owners are ahead of me but I bolted the fenders (called mudguards here) too tightly with the result that I pulled small creases into them. They do not have to be super tight, they have no structual role and the bolts are there to stop the fenders falling off!
Barry Bahnisch

SPR,

This is the best I can do, as the engine is in the way of getting a descent photo.

David Werblow

I would think the spring should be attached one bolt farther forward, to be more in line with the rod for better latch return action. I know the SPL calls the spring "anti-rattle" (in parenthesis), but the rod has a bending preload on it so it can't rattle even without the spring. I've been running mine without the spring for decades, and it doesn't rattle. I'm pretty sure the factory would not spend the money to install the spring if it wasn't needed, so it must be exclusively for the return action Also the SPL does not call for the flat washer or nut. With the spring being always in tension, it should hang onto the thread nicely without the nut.
Barney Gaylord

Guys,
Thanks for the info on that spring, which is news to me. A side benefit of my question about fender bolting. Now something else to look for in the boxes.
HJ
Harley Johansen

That's what mine looks like:

A.M. Kunz

Now there's a thing, my 'Anti-rattle' spring is long and hooks in a hole adjacent to the left-hand air intake duct. Have a look in the archives under 'Anti-rattle spring'.
Lindsay Sampford

As Lindsay Sampford said my anti rattle spring is connected to a tiny hole on the flange for the air intake duct. My car is a 1956 MGA.
c vassallo

Thanks guys I had no idea where that went, now I guess I better get a spring and attach it
S P Rossetto

Hi Barney,

Thanks for the info. I will move the spring to the next forward bolt. But I'm not throwing the nut & washer a way--the rust on the spring clearly shows it's OEM. ;-)
David Werblow

Oh, I dunno. Small springs go rusty pretty fast. Maybe it's only 20 years old. Your picture makes it look like the spring was R+R'd during a repaint, so no telling where it was originally.
Barney Gaylord

This thread was discussed between 29/03/2012 and 31/03/2012

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