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MG MGA - Garage lighting
| Following on from the thread on garage flooring and the general interest in garages and workshops, I thought I would seek your views on how best to illuminate the garage. I seem to recall Bob (Robert) midget Turbo made the point in his MGA diary that the most beneficial improvement anyone could make to a garage was to improve the lighting. But was is to most effective way to do this? Over to you guys Regards...John |
| J Bray |
| I just have several fluorescent tubes with standard holder/reflectors fixed to the horizontal roof beams. You need several different fittings (the more the better) to eliminate shadows when working on your car. A word of warning. If you have rotating machinery such as lathes, milling machines, drill press etc. they will need separate filament type lamps. This is to avoid a stroboscopic effect which could make revolving machinery appear to be stationary. You also need a portable lamp to see under the car. Mick |
| M F Anderson |
| And don't forget if you are using florescent lamps to get the cold start type if you live in a cold climate. Have a good day! John |
| John Progess |
| I have several 4-foot twin-tube fluorescent fixtures hanging on chains, powered by long cord plugged into switched outlets in the ceiling. I can lower the fixtures or move them around as needed to put light in the best places. Luckily there are enough lamps so they don't need to be moved very often. 5 fixtures @80 watts = 400 watts of fluorescent, plus 200 watts incandescent in center of ceiling, plus a couple of 75-100 watt incandescent drop lights. It's hard to have too much lighting. Pictures of my work space gutted and washed down just before final painting of my car. see here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/restore/rt628.htm The gas wall furnace with sealed fire box is nice for cold weather work, keeping my toasty right through the winter restoration work last year. In-floor heating would be even better, but slower to react. |
| Barney Gaylord |
| I have the tube lights mentioned above. Thanks for the comment about the lathe light - think I am ok there. In addition, I have found a converted desk lamp most useful. See attached image. Steve  |
| Steve Gyles |
| My contribution probably fits with the currently running threads on both flooring and lighting - I have standard red garage floor paint (which does lift here and there over time as others have said), six large double fluorescent tube fittings in the ceiling of the double garage and, most importantly, five incandescent up-lights in the MechMate pit fitted last year. The latter, a real godsend, makes even the dreaded Twin Cam engine oil filter change a lot more do-able. And all accomplished in a civilised sitting down position! Bruce  |
| B Mayo |
| Bruce I envy you. Just altered my wish list. What sort of cost? Steve |
| Steve Gyles |
John, I would add one thing. A Good quality torch or other battery powered source of light. A pro once advised me that if ever you are messing about with petrol eg fuel lines, fuel tank , carbs, fuel pump etc , never to use a mains hand lamp just in case there was a spark particularly if the bulb were to get broken. Just a thought. David |
| D C GRAHAME |
| I'm using a 8'commercial refridgeration flouresent. It uses two bulbs and puts out enough light to take care of my 2 car garage and about half the driveway. I think it cost me about $75 about 5 years ago. |
| J Bries |
When I built the current shop I had 4 4' light fixtures placed between each bay and 2 4' fixtures at the front of each bay. There is an air reel and a drop light for each bay also. The fluorescent lights use the new T4 bulbs for energy savings. More light is always better. Though the ceiling and doors are higher the lights are 1 foot above the hoist tops at 11 foot. White walls and ceiling make a big difference light wise. Body work requires even more light than here.
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| R J Brown |
| Something I have found very useful, is a head lamp, when working under the TD. It leaves your hands free to do the work, while allways being directed at what you are working on. Having to constantly adjust a trouble light, as you move around under the car, and never able to get it where you need it, was not the way to go. I have found it to be very handy when working on top of the car to see into places that are in shadow from the overhead lighting. Merry Christmas and Happy New Year to all. George Raham TD 4224 |
| G. L. Raham |
| At my age (60) there is no such thing as too much light. Having been plagued with poorly lite shops for years I went overboard and put 9 100w can lights in (10'ceiling) and then added 4 1000w metal halide lights on a seperate switch. The majority of the time I use the cans but when I need more light, I put on the MH's and the place lights up light a roman candle. Randy |
| Randy Myers |
I placed dual tube 4' flourescent fixtures two at each corner of the shop and two across the middle (20X24') with the walls and ceiling painted white I have a pretty bright area to work in. I still have some flourescent drop lights for under bonnet or under car jobs.
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| Bill Young |
Another view,
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| Bill Young |
| Steve The MechMate pit (presume that's what you were referring to cost) is an obscene price! I think with the jacking platform, sliding seat, etc. it was something like £1000. But, worth every penny as you get older but still want to work on the car. No water leaking in like an old concrete pit! Have a good Christmas. Bruce |
| B Mayo |
| Bruce That seems an okay price, but I presume fitting is extra? Steve |
| Steve Gyles |
| Seasons greetings one and all, and thank you for all the replies and photographs. For Christmas I received a book called the 'Ultimate Garage Handbook' very interesting but nowhere near as practical as this site, although it does have chapters on both flooring and lighting. Following on from your comments, I've decided to fit new fluorescent lights with reflectors and also at a much lower height than the existing ones to encourage the light downwards as shown in Barneys pictures. I will also be painting the rest of the garage walls and ceiling white to make best use of the available light. The fluorescents will be supplemented with some task lighting in selected area's. I have a Metal Halide light which although very powerful once it warms up, I'm unable to fit high enough to make it usable. Regards...John |
| J Bray |
| Steve Indeed, fitting is extra but I had a local firm doing a job nearby who dug the hole for me and concreted the fibreglass shell in. You could do it DIY but it's a bit of a slog. Call by and see it sometime - Sussex? Bruce |
| B Mayo |
| Bruce Sometimes down your way. Where in Sussex? Steve |
| Steve Gyles |
| Steve Shoreham-by-Sea. Give me a call when around. Bruce |
| B Mayo |
| Bruce I have family in Rustington, so I know my way around that part of the world. Steve |
| Steve Gyles |
| Working in Texas, another indispensible item is the "rollaround" air conditioner ! Sits on wheels, with a flexible hot air exhaust tube. It sits next to me (blowing cool air my way, of course) with the exaust tube out the window or garage door. 78F today here in Houston, so we're whining about the heat. -Chuck |
| Chuck Mosher |
| Steve I guess we should should stop hi-jacking this thread for our personal comms! So, last one - you can get me on 01273 454022 anytime. Best wishes Bruce |
| B Mayo |
Three skylites help with a bit of daylight.
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| John DeWolf |
| J Bray......this site might interest you ..it has a great section on lights for garages. When you get to the site go to the Board....Tom (Garage Junkie) http://www.garagejournal.com/ |
| Thomas Koch |
| You can see mine here. Lots of fluorescent with 6 skylights for daytime and several windows. Most of the picture were at night. Make sure you get cold weather lights. LaVerne http://www.mgnuts.com/garages/page3/ |
| LED DOWNEY |
This thread was discussed between 23/12/2008 and 29/12/2008
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