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MG MGA - Gearbox/Driveshaft
When I bought my 56 A project the engine and transmission was out of the car and most of the other parts came in boxes. I now see that the front of the drive shaft is made to receive a splined shaft but the gearbox has a flange. I am assuming that the driveshaft is correct because it is an early 56 model and the gearbox is a later model. I guess my only solution is a different shaft or does someone have another idea. |
C Tarr |
It looks like you will have to find a later type drive shaft. I recommend that you read Barney's article: http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/propshaft/ps101.htm Mick |
Mick Anderson |
If you have a mix and match drivetrain, you might make sure that your engine and its rear plate will match up with your transmission too. I'm not sure when they changed over to the flange output, but the 3 low starter (15GB) transmissions in my possession, all have the splined output shaft. The high starter engines I have come into contact with (both 1600s) have had the flanged output. |
Del Rawlins |
After reading the info on mgaguru I see that I have the correct shaft for the car but has the later flange type gearbox. I have the correct starter which fits. Does anyone know where I can get a later model flange to flange drive shaft. |
C Tarr |
Victoria British has them listed in their catalog. |
John H |
Any good driveshaft shop should be able to rebuild your current driveshaft into the later version for less than the VicBrit price. Check your yellow pages. Chuck |
Chuck Schaefer |
In order to rebuild my shaft I would need the front flange and also the front section of the shaft with the splines. I can get the flange from Victoria British but not the spline. I think that some of the 5 speed conversions also require that you change the driveshaft so maybe someone has one laying around. |
C Tarr |
Actually, the good shops can order the parts you need. I think the parts required are standard hardy-spicer parts that were originally used. Talk to a truck repair shop or a tractor repair shop. Both do build-to-order and they should not be very expensive compared to the VicBrit prices mentioned earlier in this thread. I had my u-joints replaced and the entire assy balanced for, I think ~125. I had originally gotten undersized u-joints from one of the usuals, I tought the cast fittings were bad. One of the possible solutions was to cut off the u-joint, reweld a new one in its place. I'm sorta glad I didn't have to go to that extent. It can't hurt to ask. Chuck |
Chuck Schaefer |
As well as having the driveshaft the correct length, do not forget yoke alignment. This is a factor not present in the early 1500 unit. With the driveshafts using a front and rear flange the centerlines A and B in the attached image must be parallel. Mick |
Mick Anderson |
For those language purists out there, I meant to say that the centerlines A anB should be in the same plane, not parallel (but of course they are also parallel). Mick |
Mick Anderson |
The flanged output is part of the later high starter gearbox used from January 1959 on (and also the Twin Cam gearbox). Those cars have a covered cutout in the tunnel to clear the high mount starter Bendix drive end. If you are installing this later gearbox in an earlier 1500 car you would need to modify the tunnel and toe board to later spec, or change to the later model tunnel front section. You might consider changing to the correct earlier model gearbox with low starter position to avoid the problem of modifying the tunnel and changing the propshaft. |
Barney Gaylord |
Driveshaft and transmissions both seem to go pretty cheap on E-Bay. A complete shaft sold for $25 + freight last week. A trans core is currently for sale. |
R J Brown |
I have the modified tunnel and the gearbox was rebuilt. This was pretty much a mix n match car . It is an early 56 #11019 and the engine was also rebuilt before I bought it. I bought it on ebay 2 1/2 years ago and it was listed as a complete car that had been dismantled for restoration. I figured there would be a few things missing but a lot of the pieces are from different cars. I think my best bet is to keep an eye on ebay. I don't plan on having it on the road for o few months yet. Thanks everone for info. Ron |
C Tarr |
C.Tarr. You have mail. |
Sandy Sanders |
This thread was discussed between 30/05/2007 and 01/06/2007
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