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MG MGA - Gearbox Removal-In a Parking Lot!

Hi All,

I have confirmation that all but one of my many parts will arrive within the next few days. Its the rainy season here and a perfect time to pull the engine and gearbox for some updates and freshening.

Did I mention that this has to take place in a parking lot?

So, I can pull the engine in a couple of hours without too much hassle. Now, what about the gearbox? How much room will I need to get it out? I will be able to get the car raised on standard jackstands, but thats it.

Mind you, normally I would work in a garage with all the space I need, but that's just not possible this time. This is Japan. It has to be done this way.

Any useful tips from those who have been there done that?

Fortunately, once out, I have access to a local garage with everything else I need, including shelter.
Tommy

Are you installing a Five(5) speed trans?

either way pull the engine & trans at the same time.
Jones

Hi Cliff,

No, no need for a 5-speed here. Hardly ever get a chance to get going that fast. I'm not sure if I have room to pull both at the same time. From past experience, pulling the engine alone is pretty easy. Never really had to pull the gearbox.
Tommy

Tommy

I have only ever put my car on axle stands, or it might have been just a trolley jack, when I removed the gearbox. That should give you enough room to crawl underneath to undo the bolts. Obviously, axle stands are a safer option than an unsupported jack.

I have never removed the engine and geabox together so I will let others comment on that. I removed mine separately and do not recall any undue problem pulling the gearbox forward. I worked on my own and I seem to recall using my engine hoist to assist. That said, it's an awkward shaped and weighted lump of metal that wants to tilt towards the rear, so a second pair of hands could be quite useful.

Steve
Steve Gyles

Hi Tommy. I have pulled my engine/transmission combo out many times in my driveway. Outdoor engine pulls arent much different than a shop engine pull, just be sure the weather will cooperate! It's no fun working in the rain. Nosey bystanders can slow up progress! Make sure you have all tools and parts you will need. I would suggest using a mobile hydraulic engine hoist, which makes the job much easier. The car can likely remain stationery, then moving only the hydraulic engine hoist away from the engine bay as the engine is removed. Alternately, the engine hoist can remain in place, and the car can be rolled rearward, if space permits. You will need a couple of feet free space on either side of the car, in order to work. The rear end of the car may need to be raised, so that the engine clears the front sheet metal. A good hydraulic trolly jack can be very useful. A length of rope can be useful for raising the rear of the transmission on reassembly. The rope can be lowered through the shifter opening, and looped around the back of the tranny, making it easy to lift the tranny up, and onto it's rear mount. I prefer pulling the engine and transmission as a unit, and putting them back the same way. I find engine/tranny alignment to be a pain doing them separately, but others seem to have no issues doing this . You might want to check/replace any worn clutch components while the engine is out, unless you LIKE pulling engines in parking lots. ;-) I dont like rushing this type of work. It usually takes me a few hours to get the power plant out, and about 4 hours to get it back in, assuming that only the clutch is being replaced. Other mechanical repairs could take longer. Best of luck, Glenn
Glenn

If you have enough space to get under the car, that's all you need. Pull the engine first, gbx second (otherwise you need a lot of height on the lift and under the car to get things out.

When the engine is out, I either lie under the car with feet towards the rear, and lift the gbx out onto my chest, or I stand in the engine bay and pull it forward so that the mounting eye comes over the tubular bar Which is a bit easier). It then comes out through the bonnet opening. Reassembly is easier.....
dominic clancy

Steve, Glenn, Dominic,

Thank you for the info. I remember about 17 years ago working on my B. I had completely restored her and she was really, really nice. On the maiden voyage, the clutch slipped. So much so that I had to investigate.

I decided, since I had a lift, to pull only the transmission. Big mistake as there was just no room to work to get the gearbox back into the car. The next time, years later, I pulled everything as an assembly-but I recall being very cautious and frustrated.

The best option for me given space, equipment, and tolerance level, is to pull each unit separately. I completely forgot about the tubular crossbar. That would be a great place to rest the gearbox as it comes out from the engine bay!

Thanks again!

Tommy

You may find , when pulling the engine, that the crank pulley will touch the steering rack and pinnion. You may wish to remove the pulley before lifting the engine to gain extra space. Gordon
Gordon Harrison

When I was disconnecting the engine from the gearbox I put a length of 1"X1"X@14" hardwood under the front of the gearbox to support it. Once the engine is out use about 2 - 3 feet of chain or rope and bolt to two of the bellhousing mounting holes and loop around the hook on an engine hoist. (Be sure you have disconnected the rear mounting AND drained the oil first.) I got my gearbox out by myself by slowly pulling the box forward and upward with the hoist. At some point when it comes past the 1x1 or crossmember, the tail will swing down and might hit the ground so be prepared for that.

Good luck!
Steven B

This thread was discussed between 12/06/2007 and 13/06/2007

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