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MG MGA - Halogen Headlamps/Headlights
I notice in Barney's site that he mentions using Halogen headlamps/lights but doesn't mention any changes necessary to use them. I thought that upgrading to an alternator and/or using heavier wire was necessary before you could use the Halogens? Any one with experience? My eyes suck at night and the more light I have the safer I am. |
Gene Gillam |
I have H4 Halogens with the pilot lamps; only needed to add one relay as I kept burning-out the dash light switch. Still using a generator (dynamo). |
David Werblow |
I've been using the cheap sealed beam H4 halogen lamps since the early 90's. I ran those with the standard generator for 15 years before switching to an alternator. My car has never had relays, except for the 1500 type turn signals. |
Barney Gaylord |
Thank Barney, David...upgrading soon then. |
Gene Gillam |
Before changing back to some Lucas lamps I came across I had used Cibe Z beams for years. Did not upgrade anything other than a new wiring harness when I restored the car. |
gary starr |
Gene- More experience than you want to hear! "Halogen" does not mean it uses more power, you go by the wattage on the bulb, The "standard" bulb in recent years has been 60/55W, as are the usual halogen bulbs; earlier bulbs were often less, and depended on market, but you have likely had 60/55 for years. Halogens do make more light for the same power, BUT - NO bulb works well without correct voltage AT THE LAMP. By all means fit halogen bulbs of some sort, but MEASURE and FIX the wires first.The MGA wires are good if they are good, but fused relays feeding headlamp circuits is highly recommended. That not only fixes the headlamp problem, but it helps the rest of the system, as David relates. Maybe most important is the by reducing system losses, it makes the REAR lights a whole lot better. All of you: Who has actually MEASURED DELIVERED VOLTAGE AT THE LAMPS? As I have been suggesting for years? Give me your numbers and test procedure. FRM |
FR Millmore |
The problem with the old sealed beams is that if you are travelling at speed then they don't even light up the braking distance adequately on low beam. I switched to H4 units years ago, first Bosch, then when they went cloudy I switched to Lucas units. The wiring loom is standard but relatively new, and the rear lamps are Brian's LED boards, which are excellent. I have no problems with switches or fuses, and have bright lights all around. Next step is to go LED on the front sidelights. |
dominic clancy |
I thought that MGA's have semi-sealed beam units. I have quartz-halogen bulbs in one of my MGA's (given to me as a publicity move) but they seem to make little difference. |
Barry Bahnisch |
As an alternative, I have LED headlamps - origninally for the Hum-Vee military jeeps - and the are VERY bright and pull very little current. See them at www.truck-lite.com. No need for a relay. The new ones are 2-LED and look better than mine (the old 10-LED), which are a bit ugly, I'll admit. JIM in NH |
AJ Mail |
Holy cow, Jim...for $500+ those had better light up my world, much less the road in front of my car. There's no way I could justify that kind of money...but I'm glad you're able to. |
Gene Gillam |
Gee, Jim, If I knew that you had that kind of money, I would have charged you a lot more for those parts. :) |
David Werblow |
They are a customer of mine. The lights kind of found their way into my briefcase during a tour when I told them I had an mga... Jim |
AJ Mail |
I've had H4 halogens in my car since it was restored 10 years ago. Still positive ground, generator, no special wiring. Never had a problem. I've even tried it with the lights on high beam and the heater blower running, and never a flicker from the generator light. Do these lamps pull any more watts than the tungsten lights of the day? |
David Breneman |
Well, yes. The original Lucas headlamps were 50/40 watts, or 45/40 watts, depending on destination country (from the Workshop Manual). H4 halogens are usually 60/50 or 60/55 watts. The extra 10 watts on top end for two lamps is less than 2 amps current increase (1 amp per lamp), and original wiring is adequate to handle that well. If the headlamp switch runs a little warm, soak the whole switch in CLR or precious metal cleaner to clean the copper contacts. I have on occasion driven through a long light with rain or snow, lights blazing and all accessories on full tilt. As long as the generator is working and the regulator is adjusted correctly, the generator keeps up okay. I also run 10 watt halogen bulbs in the larger dash instruments for an additional 1 amp draw. I used to run a 50-watt radio with about 5 amps current draw, and ever had a problem with that either, but maybe I didn't run it much with everything else going at the same time. |
Barney Gaylord |
Is it possible to fit zeon bulbs on my rebuild on an A Roadster? |
c allen |
I put Halogen bulbs in my MGA years ago replacing my PFB's. Great improvement but the lights lost their beam effect and light 'washes' everywhere. I put this down to the filament no longer being at the focus of the parabolic reflector. Been thinking for a while that I might resolder the circular positioning flange on the bulb to better effect but this would have to be experimentally. |
J H Cole |
This thread was discussed between 11/02/2013 and 24/02/2013
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