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MG MGA - Handbrake sticking on

Recently I have had a problem with the brake shoes sticking to the drum when I park my MGA for a few days. It seems to be on one side (offside) only and I have been able to break it free with plenty of revs and start attempts.

I'm a bit worried that one day I'll end up bashing the car in the garage while breaking out!

What causes this? is it just the wet?

Are there any suggestions about how to avoid this? I'd like to just leave the handbrake off in the garage, but there is enough of a slope for this to be impractical.

thanks

dan
Dan Smithers

Dan

I never like leaving the handbrake on for any length of time. My garage floor is flat so no problem like you have. However, I have previously often left it in a gear facing the 'open' end of the garage.

Even with my Merc, I never leave the handbrake on. I just leave it in 'P', regardless of any slope.

Steve
Steve Gyles

Dan,
I'm with Steve and don't lock the handbrake in the garage. Suggest you invest in some plastic tyre chocks from Halfords.

regards
Colin
C Manley

With conditions being as they are condensation is everywhere. I try to keep my garage dry by not opening the door for any longer than necessary but inevitabaly at this time of year cold steel parts become wet.

Thus braking surfaces become rusty and rear brakes will stick if left incontact with the handbrake on

My advice is to leave a bit of wood behind/infront of the wheel to stop the car rolling away.

I don't even leave the handbrake on during summer in any of my cars that will be standing for a few days or more.
Bob Turbo Midget England

Dan, if as you say your handbrake is sticking on one side only, it is unlikely that the cause of your problem is winter dampness, although that cannot be excluded entirely. I would suspect that a piston or possibly a deformed rubber inside the wheel cylinder is more likely the cause. With the drum off get someone to press the brake pedal very slowly and check if the wheel cylinder is functioning as it should. Do this check after the car has sat for a few days, and before you try to move anything.

Frank
F Camilleri

Don't use the handbrake, just leave it in gear.

But check too that there isn't an issue inside that drum to cause it to stick like that.

The best way to avoid damp problems is a lot of air circulation, even if it wet outside. Condensation only forms on surfaces where the surface is colder than the damp air it is exposed too. If the garage is unheated, it should be the same temperature as outside unless it has suddenly got warmer outside. Then a good blast of fresh air will dry it out quickly enough.
dominic clancy

Oil on the shoes can cause this problem also.
R J Brown

If the compensating lever on the axle is seized, it will keep one brake on. Common problem, take it off/apart and lubricate everything.

FRM
FR Millmore

Dan

I just picked up the following comment by Neil Cairns. He was talking about the MG Metro rear drum brakes, but the same applies to most cars:

"WARNING - if one rear cylinder is leaking, you can bet the other one will soon. A good sign of a leaking cylinder is the hand-brake sticking on as the shoes grip the drum with the soggy brake dust."

Steve
Steve Gyles

The cable itself can lock up inside the outer housing due to age, rust, and or lack of grease ect.
HCR

The grease can get old and dry in the handbrake cable, causing it to stick. If it is stuck; reach under the back and pull on the cable on either side. If it moves (comes out of the housing) and releases the brakes; it's the cable. Remove the cable and soak it in WD40 until it frees up, moving it back and forth until it is free. Grease it with red grease. Or replace the cable.
The cable on my A used to stick; I eventually replaced it (years ago). I grease, it with red grease, while moving the handbrake lever, until the grease comes out of both ends, it hasn't stuck since.
Russ
Russ Carnes

should it be grease or heavy oil ? i use the latter & have no problems!! at least with the hand brake!!

Colin Branscombe Devon
c daly

WITH THE CABLE REMOVED, you can run a propane torch along the length to melt out the old grease. Works great.

George
G Goeppner

George, why didn't I think of that?? Good idea. Especially removing the cable from the car first. I guess I'd better let the WD40 evaporate before hitting it with the torch...

Dan, It goes back to the question: are the shoes gluing to the drum or is the hand brake sticking?

If the cable is free, remove the wheel and drum and tell us what you see.

Russ
Russ Carnes

I had a go at the weekend. First I tried to get the car out and it couldn't brake the wheel loose. Fortunately nothing got damaged in the skidding and sliding that ensued and it wriggled the wheel a bit further from the wall.

So I jacked the car up but couldn't turn the wheel by hand. Next I took the wheel off thinking "If I can't turn it by hand with the wheel on I'm not likely to be able to free it with the wheel off."

Checked the handbrake cable was slack - thanks for the suggestion I wouldn't have thought of that - and it was. I wiggled the handbrake actuator on the wheel cylinder - still stuck firm.

I got out the screwdriver to take the drum off at which point the drum started rotating instead of unscrewing.

When I did eventually get the offending screw out (with chewed up head - now in the bin) the drum was dry and slightly rusty. No sign of brake fluid leaking out.

I gave it a good wash and put it back together and (when I remember I'll try to leave it in gear with the handbrake off).

Thanks for all your suggestions.

dan
Dan Smithers


"I wiggled the handbrake actuator on the wheel cylinder - still stuck firm. "
That tells you the problem is that the HB lever and/or associated parts in &around the wheel cylinder is sticking.

I recently posted this on another forum, re a Z Magnette, same thing.

"The rear wheel cylinders slide in the backplate. When the brakes are applied, the cylinder pushes one way, and the piston pushes the other. The handbrake does the same thing, but does it by pushing only the outer part of the two piece piston. In either case, when the brake is released, the cylinder has to slide back to rest position, and so does the outer piston. It is essential to clean and lubricate both sides of the backplate AND the slot in the cylinder. Also both inner and outer pistons must be free. I couldn't begin to tell you how many times I've found newly replaced cylinders stuck on filthy, rusted, dirty backplates, nor how often the outer pistons are stuck. It is particularly a problem on cars that sat a long time immediately after rear cylinders were replaced/rebuilt. Typically, a cursory cleaning removes all lubricant but not the crud/corrosion build up, and no lubricant is applied. Take the cylinders off and clean everything, and remove the pistons and clean up the bores AND the piston bodies. Check for build up of crap at the end of the outer piston under the shroud - a common place for the kind of crap that causes this. Trial fit to be certain that the cylinder is absolutely free on the backplate. Some brakes of this type, but I am not certain this is one of them, have a spring shim welded to the back side of the backplate, to keep the cylinder from rattling. Dirt and rust build up under this, and cause binding. Since it is welded on, it is v difficult to clean, but lots of penetrating oil and taps with a hammer, and probing with a thin thing followed by air blast, will usually rectify. Use antiseize on the slot and rubber grease in the bore.

FRM
FR Millmore

This thread was discussed between 06/01/2011 and 18/01/2011

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