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MG MGA - Hood catch

The top plate of my hood catch, although a bit scarred, is supposed to cover the sliding part below it. However, it is barely wide enough to do this. When assembled it does hold it, but not by much in my opinion.I could order another as it is listed, but would that be the same? I need to add about 1/16 of weld each side - PITA!
Next question, why is the top plate asymetric, and do the cutouts face fore or aft, or does it matter?
Third, why are there 3 holes in the slider for the connecting rod?
And last, I have the bellcrank mounted and the long end can knock against the bottom of the bridge piece where it is mounted. Should I a) bend the end down out of the way or b) adjust the operating position to be aft or fore of the aforementioned body member?
I think the hood was jammed at one time, which would explain why I had to weld a crack where the bellcrank mounts and the handle end of the release rod is bent backwards. Almost every bit of this car has had to be repaired!


Art Pearse

Silly me, the top plate mounts above the body mount! So ignore my first para!
Art Pearse

Isn't there a distance piece on the pivot screw that goes between the crank and the cross member so that the former clears the latter? I suppose the three holes give you a choice in case of length variations in the two control rods. I seem to recall that doing up that crank screw was a nightmare.
On mine I replaced the two original (1/4"?) hex screws that fix the catch with much longer ones so that they would protrude from the underneath side. In the event of a stuck catch and inability to open the bonnet you can then put a couple of nuts on each screw from underneath and loosen the screws...........................Mike
m.j. moore

Mike, there is a distance piece and its in place, so the crank is at its lowest position. It rocks a bit so it can catch on the X member but not always. Is it normal for the motion of the crank to cross that posiyion?

I agree about the difficult position
of the crank centre bol.
Art Pearse

Art,

It looks like the tip of the long end of my crank rests against the down flange on the cross member - see pic. The crank plane clearance from the flange is about 3mm.

Also I've used the hole nearest to the centre of the car. I guess if I had used one of the two more outboard holes the crank end would have been further from the body..................................Mike



m.j. moore

Art, if you need any more photos in that area while I've got the grille off let me know. It will be going back in a few days............Mike
m.j. moore

Art

As usual, when I see threads like this I go and have a look at my car. I did the rebuild back in 1996/97 without the benefit of this forum and the likes of Clausager. I only had the benefit of recording the strip down on paper, ensuring things went back more or less the same. I did not even have a digital camera then. Anyway, I am forever finding differences.

For what it's worth I have shown a photo of what I believe to be the correct orientation of the top part of the latch. Not sure it makes any difference to operation though. My bellcrank at rest position is as shown in the lower picture.

Steve


Steve Gyles

OK, thanks Steve and Mike. If I'd have known it would be 20 years getting to this stage I would have made better documentation!
One further question re the catch. The very bottom plate, with the captive nuts, has a piece of metal which droops from the hole on one side. Which side does this protrusion go, to the crank side or the other?
(2 more questions) - is it not better to install the connecting link so that the washers and pins are on top? Otherwise the bend in the rod does not enter the hole cleanly, unless the holes are countersunk.


Art Pearse

Art

On mine it is installed the other way up with the lip pointing down and on the crank side. I presume it stops sideways movement of the bonnet pin when the sliding plate is pulled by the bellcrank. I cannot see a reason for it if it was the other way round. May be that is why some owners get stuck bonnets if it was that way round.

Steve
Steve Gyles

OK Steve, I'll do it that way. Thanks.
Art Pearse

Steve, on Barney's site, http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/body/bd101a.htm the photo shows the bottom piece with the drooping bit on the spring side, contrary to your arrg't. Do you think it matters?
Don't want a stuck latch!
Art Pearse

I've got that lip on the opposite side to the crank because I thought it was to prevent the strong tension spring pulling the bonnet front when closed towards the lhs of the car (looking from the front) and out of alignment...................................Mike
m.j. moore

Art & Mike

Seems we have started something here! I only based my view on what I found and then tried to understand the reason for it that way. It was the way the car came to me. I'm totally open on this. Mike's view never even crossed my mind, but I understand his reasoning and it makes sense. That said, in the 50s/60s, I would have thought that MG would have been more concerned with the the bonnet actually opening rather than going for perfection on gapping. I remember buying a new car back then and saying to the salesman: "I hope this lasts me a good few years." to which he responded: "we hope not, we want you back next year for another."

Steve
Steve Gyles

I have just done a forensic examination (looked at it) on my car and my conclusion is that Mike is absolutely correct. There is wear (rubbing) on the bonnet lid where it has been pulled across by the spring; and the lip on the bellcrank side on mine has no wear whatsoever. Thank you Art for raising the questions. And thanks Mike for the reasoning. Now to turn mine round. May be there are a few other owners out there having a quick look at their installation.

Steve
Steve Gyles

Great! In an earlier thread, I was asking what tasks were best done with the body off, and I must say that installing the bonnet release rod has to be up there. esp. on LHD cars with the wiper motor in the way.
Art Pearse

Steve, There may be another reason for the lip being on the left (looking from the front):-

Normally when the bonnet is closed the conical end of the striker pin latches on the slider catch. If, however, after latching, the bonnet is pushed down even further there is a chance that the pin will latch on the bottom plate. If it does do this then the bonnet is permanently locked and cannot be opened by the control rod. The only way to release the bonnet is by slackening off the two 1/4" screws. I think this may be why there is that lip on the bottom plate to prevent the possibility of this 'second' latching. And as the tension spring tends to pull the bonnet to the left this is where the down turn should be.

Ever since this 'second latching' effect happened to me I've been extremely gentle in closing the bonnet. It made me think about adding another rubber buffer or two near the bonnet front...................................Mike

m.j. moore

Mike

You would have thought that it would have been an easier bit of engineering to have the lip fully round the circumference.

Steve
Steve Gyles

I have my bonnet latch mechanism out of the car so that I can turn the bottom plate round. I have blasted all the bits and am ready to repaint. Looking at Clausager I notice that the top bracket is body colour on some cars and what appears nickel plated on others. Can someone confirm which is correct. Also the bottom bracket with the lip. I could not see an obvious sign of the original paint, if any.

Steve
Steve Gyles

I have my answer having just spoken with Bob West. The entire lock assembly came out of the factory body colour. At customers' requests for show cars he zinc plates the top plate and sliding plate as an 'eye catcher', also to avoid chipping of paint if it had been body colour. See page 54 in Clausager.

Bob was not aware of Mike's reasoning for having the bottom plate lip on the spring side, so we all learn something. Probably loads of cars driving around with it incorrectly fitted.

Steve
Steve Gyles

This thread was discussed between 27/03/2013 and 02/04/2013

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