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MG MGA - How to remove a seized stud

I have to remove two seized studs, one each side of the car. They are the ones used to mount the shock absorber, both ar inboard, which hinders access a bit. engine is out, and shocks are out too.

So far I have tried heat, penetrating oil and drilling to try using an extractor. All has failed to budge either stud, even using a stilson wrench.

Any ideas?

dominic clancy

I would keep drilling, increasing the bit size each time until I arrived just at the limit of the stud exterior diameter. Then I would I would use a tap to cut a new thread into this hole. At this point chances are that the tap would break away what ever remaining parts of the stud are left. Failing this I would continue to over bore the hole and add a helicoil insert with maximum strength locktite. This would allow you to repalce the stud with the origional size. good luck Gordon.
Gordon Harrison

One other way is to remove the entire front suspension and weld a bolt to the underside of the broken stud. If I remeber, there is the spring cup that also needs to be removed. the stud should extend thru the metal and be visible. The heat of the welding should loosen things up. Then remove the stud/bolt out the bottom. I have done this but the car was completely disassembled at the time. Not sure if it can be accomplished with teverything together.

Every time I have tried extractors, it has been a dismal failure. Drillin ght e exact center of a stud is virtually impossible using a hand drill. Even if you do succeed, the remaining threads will be comprimised. If you want to continue on your current path, Heat.... lots of it.... cherry red... is your friend. Heat the frame member not the stud. If you can grab the remains from the underside. pull it thru rather than trying to back it out.


Chuck
Chuck Schaefer

Unless you know the car's history, it might be worthwhile to check and see if a previous owner had welded in replacement studs by removing the spring locating pan and checking from below. A Stilson wrench should have removed them if you have good leverage.

Steve
Steve Brandt

Hi Dominic. I dont think I have ever encountered a seized stud that didnt finally come out with the application of enough heat. Having worked on old exhaust systems, where studs get almost welded in place by years of rust and heat, I can honestly say that repeated heatings with oxy acetelene, always got the seized studs out. Often, one or two applications of heat are not enough. You may need to heat and cool the offending parts numerous times before things finally let go. Try heating the metal plate surrounding the stud. Doing this essentially enlarges the threaded bore fractionally, which breaks the rust bond between the plate and the stud. Then try removal. If that doesnt work, try heating the stud until it turns a dull red. Let it cool some, and while still hot, try removing it again. A couple of jamb nuts on the stud is preferable to using vice grips. Vice grips can repidly remove lots of stud metal, eventially leaving you with nothing to grab onto. If numerous attempts at heating, cooling and removal fail, then the other methods suggested are likly your best bet. Drilling is tedious, but if done carefully, can work out well. Cheers, GLenn
Glenn

Heat wrench is just about the best,but with a twist...heat up everything red hot,stud and surronding area, then douse it with water continuously until not hot to the touch. Double nut it then try to tighten it just a tiny bite, then undo, the rust and crap is now ash/carbon mixed with water is a kinda graphite,works 99 out of 100 times. I have used this on rusted paper thin sheetmeatal caged nuts to trailer hitches.Also works on studs in alloy thermo housings,just be REAL careful. Just twisting red metal is a sure broken piece of metal.
wc wolcott

Dominic,
Also, you can get left hand drills, which will drill out in reverse direction. If they loosen the stud while drilling, it will usually turn out during the process.
mike parker

Dominic;; Try heating the stud not red but very hot and then rub an old candle all around the stud. The wax will draw into the threaded area and help lubricate it's removal.
Sandy
Sandy Sanders

I have has some success by pushing the heating process one step further and using freeze spray. Heat the outside piece and then freeze the stud with the spray. Normally used to press bearings and sleeves. Available at most bearing suppliers. Worked for a couple of studs in an exhaust manifold... If not, there is always drilling... Best of luck.

Karl

K Leclerc

This thread was discussed between 03/02/2007 and 04/02/2007

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