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MG MGA - It lives!!

We hooked up the final bits to the engine today and started my 1962 Chariot Red MKII DeLuxe today for the first time since 1980. Drove her inside the shop forward and back numerous times and it was sweet. Two problems need to be sorted out.
1. Front end is too high. The car sat with just the tub on the frame since 1990 but the springs were compressed during that time. For the past 12 months as the latest resto was taking place the car had the springs installed without being compressed. The only change to the suspension has been the addition of an original style sway bar installed in the notches located on the frame. I expected the front end to lower once all the weight was on the car.

2. clutch. The clutch was bled (silicone fluid) 3 times and is still not very stiff. (seperate MC) The clutch will work after about three pumps of the pedal, otherwise it wants to grind the gears.

Any suggestions?

I will post pictures next week after I return from a sail up lake Michigan for the normal critique fron the people on this board about what is right and wrong with my restoration!

Mark
M Gannon

Mark,

Did you replace the rubber bushes at the inner pivot of the lower suspension A arms (lower wishbone)? If not, did you ever loosen the nuts that retain the A arm and the bushes?
These nuts must be tightened when the A arm is level, with the weight of the car on the front suspension.
With the clutch, the first thing is to see how much travel there is at the slave cylinder pushrod.
During the bleeding process did you you push the pushrod fully back into the slave cylinder each time you released the pedal?

Mick
Mick Anderson

Mick is right if you tighten the nuts on the ends of the lower control arm upper bushings while the car is in the air you put quite a twist on them when on the ground. Makes the bushing wear out almost immediatly.
A tool that sucks the fluid out from the bottom makes bleeding the slave easier.
good luck and congrats
R J Brown

Bleeding MGA brakes when using dot 5 fluid is a lot faster with a power bleeder. I made one for $22.00 http://www.bmw-m.net/TechProc/bleeder.htm .. and would never go back to doing it without.

With the power bleeder, clutch and front brakes were fast and easy to get fully bled. For me, even with power bleed, rear brakes were challenging to get all of the air out of.

Steven Loe

Mark,
When you look at the slave in it's installed position you will see there is ample room for some of the air in the lines to collect at the top of the casting. the bleeder is on the bottom which is the issue. I find it easiest to remove the slave, clamp the piston so it does not move and then hold it in such way to have the bleeder at the top of the unit allowing the air to pass.

Good luck.
JohnB

The clutch slave bleed nipple is not at the bottom, but at the side part way down and pointing down at an angle. The driled fluid hole goes along side of the cylinder bore to emerge inside at the top. So it will release the air, and no need to dismount the cylinder for bleeding. See cylinder picture and bleeding discussion here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/hydraulics/ht106.htm
Barney Gaylord

This thread was discussed between 22/07/2006 and 29/07/2006

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This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGA BBS is active now.