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MG MGA - Lower Radiator Hose
I need to replace the lower radiator hose. Is there a trick to do it? I can’t seem to get to the lower clamp. |
david kirkpatrick |
Hi David, it can be quite a fiddle if the clamp has been fitted with the screw in a difficult place. So, if it really is proving impossible, drain the radiator via the tap at the bottom and disconnect the top hose. Then disconnect the top of the bottom hose and release the six bolts holding the radiator and lift it out complete with the bottom hose. Removing the bottom hose clamp will now be easy and you will be able to take the opportunity to flush the radiator properly whilst it is out. |
Lindsay Sampford |
david, I always make sure the bottom clamp adjusting screw is accessible from under the mudguard (wing), using a very long handled screw-driver, with the road wheel on full lock. A tight fit but do-able. Barry |
BM Gannon |
Barry - The clamp is turned where I can't get to it from the wing. Lindsay - I guess I will pull the radiator. Mine only has 5 bolts so I might as well put it back in with 6. Is there anything special that I need to know before I pull it? |
david kirkpatrick |
Hi David, I changed my hoses a few weeks ago and took the radiator out to do it. Its an easy job but a good tip is to change the fan belt whilst the rads out of the way. Its not an easy job with radiator fitted. Belts are very cheap to buy. Paul |
p anderton |
Yes, don't spill coolant down your front! Flush the rad by connecting a garden hose to the bottom hose connection. Give the rad a good shake with some water in the bottom to loosen the sediment. Re-fill with clean rainwater or distilled water and antifreeze to reduce corrosion and sediment build up in the future. Don't forget to drain the block (the drain tap will probably be siezed and blocked, in which case, you will need to remove it and wriggle a small screwdriver about in the hole in the cylinder block to remove the rusty plug) and heater. The block and heater should also be given the garden hose treatment. It is very satisfying to see all the rusty muck pouring out. All this assumes that someone hasn't already done this to your cooling system and it is in pristine condition! |
Lindsay Sampford |
BEFORE you lift the radiator out, after draining, make sure the drain valve's lever cannot catch on the radiator duct panel on its way out. If this catches, you will think the radiator is a bit jammed. Giving it a good tug can distort and even split the panel's flanged edge. Been there! Not sure why you need the pull the rad at all though - I wouldn't. Its much easier to fiddle with the hose clips until you can use a hex socket driver from above. You might have to take the hose off once or twice to get it right. We know its about the worst thing to get at on an "A", but with a new hose and a bit of washing liquid it slides on and off easily enough. Good luck. Pete |
PeteT |
Well I have to pull the radiator! My drain is not a petcock but a bolt with a square head. When I tried to screw it out the entire assembly broke so I will have to get a new assembly braised at a radiator shop. I guess that it is a good time to have the entire radiator inspected. I do have a question about how to prop up the hood or do I have to remove it? |
david kirkpatrick |
Better to leave the hood in place. Place a thick wad of cloth in the channel, close to one of the rubber buffers, set the prop rod in the cloth and be careful not to disturb it as you work. Here in Aus. we have the radiators in and out regularly! Hot stuff -- high temperatures! Barry |
BM Gannon |
David I have used Barry's idea frequently. Works fine. The other option I have used over the years when removing the engine and wanting the strut out of the way is to tie a thin rope to the hood latch, raise the hood way up high and secure the other end of the rope to the luggage rack or even the rear bumper, with suitable cloth between the rope and paint work. Steve |
Steve Gyles |
I use a strap around the release catch, over the top of the screen and then around the base of the rear view mirror. I have used this trick on every cabrio I have worked on for the last fifteen years, and it gives a lot of room for every operation under the hood. Never had any problems with rear view mirrors after using this trick either. And I always remove any fender mounted mirror before working on a car, it is a mystery to me why anyone thinks they are anything other than a royal PITA |
dominic clancy |
This thread was discussed between 07/11/2014 and 10/11/2014
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