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MG MGA - Lowering

I want to lower the A an inch or so. I have checked the archives, but has anyone had experience with Moss' mid-range MGB lowering springs (264-395)? Results?

Also, any current recommedations for lowiring the rear? Thanx.
Steve
Steve Meline

Hi Steve. I've just been reading the archives, too. I recently discovered that one of my front coils is broken . Roughly 1 coil up from the bottom. I haven't really driven the car, other than around the yard. I was surprised at my find as I hadn't noticed the car sitting lower on 1 side.

From what I read in the archives, it seem that if a 'B tourer spring is used the car will sit higher than standard. Seems the free length is longer. The only 'B spring anyone seems to recommend is that for the 'B GT. Moss lists this (264-390) as the same as the 'A Twin Cam. I don't see any mention of it lowering the car. Just a bit stiffer. There's not any choice from Moss anyway, as the standard MGA coil (264-100) is listed as NLA. Victoria actually has 3 front springs listed. Early 'A, later 'A and TC. The TC is cheapest @ $30. They also have 5 different 'B springs listed (3 for GTs). They give the same part number as the TC as suitable for GT' up to '73.

I'm curious, given my situation with roughly 1 coil broken off, what would happen if I removed the broken bit of coil and then cut the same amount off the unbroken coil on the other side. I know this will have the effect of lowering and stiffening the front. Not sure by how (too?) much, though. But since I'm faced with sourcing 2 front springs anyway, I might try it to see what happens.

Since I once again didn't have the winning Lottery numbers, I have certain budgetary constraints. However, I do have a couple of 'A rolling frames around that I could "borrow" springs from. The trouble is, I think I've read that with all the extra weight missing, I can't remove the front spring using the normal "jack-under-the-springpan" method. Not enough weight to compress the spring, I believe. I don't think that a spring compressor can be used either, even with the body off. I guess I could pile a load od boulders on the frame where the engine should be. That's probably what Fred Flintstone would do.

I've also got a few old 'B Tourer springs around that I could experiment with.

I look forward to input from others.

TTFN


Derek Nicholson

P.S. I know there's a single, used MGA spring on eBay at the moment.

Derek Nicholson

Thanks for your response Derek, Moss does offer non-stock springs under:
-MGB/C
-Preformance & Handling
-Suspension
I think I also heard about the BGT spring lowering the A (I didn't go allll the way thru the archives). Mayby sobody out there has direct experience. Good luck with your broken spring.
Steve
Steve Meline

Derek

The trick is to run a loop of chain under the jack and over the chassis.
John DeWolf

Steve, the Moss springs for B GT are not what you want - higher than stock.

Try the 264-395 which are higher rate and will lower it at least an inch.

I am using them on two of my street cars and wouldn't advise much lower except for competition.
Bill Spohn

I think there's more to lowering an MG than getting shorter springs. I remember a discussion I has with Dick Leuning at MG Limited. He's been racing MGs and building race cars for hundreds of years. I wish I could remember the details, but to make a long story short, he makes special kingpins that lower a car 1" and maintain the correct geometry. His number is Ph. 414-529-3200.

Here is his site and a pic of the mgb spindle.

http://www.mgbracing.com/pages/2/index.htm
Fred H

Thanks for your help. Anyone know a current source for a lowering device for the rear?
Steve
Steve Meline

You could save money and make your own but they are avaiable. Any MGB lowering kit would also work on an A. Here is one source.
http://www.mgbmga.com/tech/mgb31.html
R J Brown

Steve, if you use MGB components for the rear be sure to order the kit for use with a banjo axle. The housing diameters are different between the banjo and tube type axles, so the u-bolts and spring plates don't match.
Bill Young

Steve,

Are you racing?

I think to do it right one really needs to go for 2" ft and rr. For the front the best method I have heard is to switch to B components and then get dropped spindles and use much stiffer springs along with a 7/8ths anti roll bar (sway bar) from Addco (inexpensive). Also use derlin/nylatron suspension rubbers (all around). For the rear get the springs de-arched and remove a leaf to soften a bit.

If not racing then go with the med springs (red? 1" lowered) and lowering blocks for the rear. I would still go with the 7/8ths sway bar. If you've got disks wheels, toss them (they crack) and get mid 80's Saab wheels shod with Kumho KH11's (DOT tires). The thing will corner like nothing else!

My 2c

Have fun
JohnB

John, the 3/4" bars work well on street cars. The 7/8" are on the stiff side for non-slalom use, IMHO, but I agree with everything else you said.

Too many people lower just for looks and introduce unwanted bump steer.

I've gone for about 1" lower than stock on the last couple of street cars I've done but wouldn't go any lower without modifying the suspension to eliminate the bump steer (WAY overkill for a street car)
Bill Spohn

Just by using 155R15 tyres instead of 165R15, my car sits noticeably lower than other MGAs when parked in a line, otherwise it's all stock 1600, including new rear springs (which have settled considerably since first installed)
dominic clancy

This thread was discussed between 12/08/2006 and 15/08/2006

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This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGA BBS is active now.