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MG MGA - Luggage Rack - holes Blanking

Hi there,

I am getting ready to repaint my car and I was wondering if there is any way I can 'blank' the holes where the luggage rack screws onto.
My case has a luggage rack but I wanted to be able to show the car without it (unspoilt lines).
Hence while I am painting it, maybe ask the guy to paint some blanking holes too the same color.

Any one of you has dones this?
Gonzalo Ramos

Gonzalo, do you want to re-mount the luggage rack at some time? I had my holes welded closed (won't ever use a luggage rack), but it takes a person good at aluminum welding to do this.

George
G Goeppner

Gonzalo,
Don't know about blanking plates (plugs) but you might consider obtaining a second boot lid with no holes. Get both painted, then, if you want the rack on or off just swap the lids. I have a roadster and a coupe which will (eventually) be painted the same color. The roadster has a rack. I intend to use the swap method if I want the rack on my coupe or off the roadster. Unlike Mr. Goeppner I definitely use a luggage rack :)
Gerry
G T Foster

Two boot (trunk) lids is the answer. Probably no more expensive than getting the holes welded (they have been readily available, and inexpensive, at the breakers over your way) and then you have the two alternatives. I had my coupe holes welded many years ago (by an expert aluminium welder) and two started to "show through" after a few years.
Barry Bahnisch

Gonzalo - I recently had my car painted. I was not happy with the looks of the luggage rack, so I had the holes welded closed. The result was a sleeker look on the boot that blends better with the curve of the rear fenders.

As George said, make sure you use someone that is very experienced in welding aluminum.

PS: Would you mind telling me what you were quoted for the re-paint?

Fran
F Valenzano

Well, I find the rack useful, so I wanted to just leave the holes and put in 4 red plugs the same color for when I don't use it.

Regarding the repaint, as I already discussed in a previous thread I am getting it re-sprayed for about 1000bucks.
I am taking the car with all the chrome off, and the guy will just take the fenders off and repaint them separately. So this is not a 'body off' / top notch re-sray, but suitable for me.


Some of you call it a blow-over, but given my tight budget and the fact that I will probably repaint it in 5 -10 years whenever I manage to do a body off restoration, it is not worth for me to invest more.

BTW, the guy will do two part paint, ie. base and then clear over. I know it is not original but I like the deep red that it produces!

If you want addresses there are several cuban body shops that do decent jobs for around this price.

Gonzalo Ramos

I'd be concerned for the appearance problem with the painted plugs, possible chipped paint, and the time it takes to R&R the rack periodically. I'm in the two boot lid camp, so here's a cheap and nifty trick for quick change boot lids: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/body/bd118.htm
I don't change boot lids, but I do a lot of engine work, so I use these on the bonnet.
Barney Gaylord

Hmmm...yes maybe I will have to consider your suggestion of getting an additional boot.
May have to wait until I move into a house... ; )
Gonzalo Ramos

Maybe this is worth buying even before you move into a house.

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/MG-MGA-TRUNK-LID-Very-Nice-Condition-/310255887833?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item483cb125d9
F Valenzano

Indeed it looks like a bargain... ; )

Will think about it!
Gonzalo Ramos

That lid also has four holes and looks like it may have been "stretched from blasting. If not too bad it will still be repairable though.
Neil McGurk

"That lid also has four holes"...well, I know my eyes aren't what they once were but I don't see any holes except the ones where the badge mounts.
Regards,
GTF
G T Foster

On the left and right edge. The upper ones are very clear on the blown up picture. They look like the fixing points for an Amco. type rack. One of my lids has holes in almost the same positions.
Neil McGurk

On the subject of spare boot lids, I have a spare one at home which has been drilled to take a boot rack. My intention is to fix a boot rack to the spare lid rather than drill a perfectly good one and fix it on the car for European tours etc.

The aluminium on the outside surface is sound but the inner surface is showing some corrosion.

Does anyone know of any surface treatment for ally that I can use to stop the corrosion and also the best way to paint it afterwards? (The steel frame is also showing some "slight iron oxide"discoloration too)
Thanks

Colyn
Colyn Firth

Aluminium can be soldered with a large soldering iron. Just cut out plates slightly larger than the holes and place them below the holes. solder in place and fill.
Sandy
SANDY SANDERS

Hi, back in 1980, I had 4 luggage rack holes in my trunk lid that needed filling. I used a large countersunk head bolt on top of the trunk lid, and a small diameter tube, underneath the trunklid, with a nut on the bolt
When I tightened the nut, the countersunk part of the bolt created a nice counersunk area around the hole. The 4 newly countersunk holes were ground down to clean metal, and were then filled with a high quality "aluminum body filler" This repair was extremely successful! When I repainted my MGA last year, I thought about removing the filler and having the holes welded, but the long ago repaired holes were still perfect, so I simply sanded the trunk lid wih 600 grit, applied 2 coats of epoxy primer, and then sprayed the colour coats. My "mickey mouse" repair has stood the test of time, and it saved the cost of aluminum welding. Just my 2 ceents worth, Glenn
Glenn Hedrich

Glenn,
I like it. Simple and effective...
Cheers,
GTF
G T Foster

Thanks, GT, Glenn
Glenn Hedrich

This thread was discussed between 27/09/2010 and 04/10/2010

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