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MG MGA - MGA Mods

I know there are more people interested in keeping their cars stock. However I'm sure there are those who have made improvements to help keep things more reliable. I would like to hear from you if you have done any mods. I am not interested in BHP or engine swaps just Mods that make sense.
You people are great and I don't want to offend the purists. But we all can't afford a concours car.
L E Marchand

electronic ignition (pertronix)
Ed Bell

A hidden power brake booster and cruise control, wiper delay, alarm system, hidden radio in the dash, plastic fan for the heater, elec ignition, larger raditor, elec fan on rad for cooling, 5 speed for lower RPM's, a lot of insulation in the car for noise and heat, shoulder harness for seat belt,emergency flasher switch, ( to turn on to protect OTHER CARS when they break down), under dash heat pad, halagon lights, heat sheild under seat for exhaust pipe to name a few. My car is built to be a daily driver and not a trailer queen, The other thing I kept in mind was that every mod could be reversed to put the car back to original conditon if it was wanted.
JEFF BECKER

"""But we all can't afford a concours car. """

Not only that L E M but many many of us don't want a concours car!
Jeff's mods sound great and I would choose his over a concours car any day.
Standing in a field having people look at your car is great but touring the open country side day after day with out a care in the world is far better. IMO.
Bob (robert) I am turning? yes I once owned an MGWasp!!

Hi. This is a response I have given to others who have asked the same question. Hope it helps. Glenn



The original SU fuel pump can be troublesome, so replace it with a transistorized model. The original fuel line is made of mild steel, and rusts inside. Flakes of rust eventually reach the carburettors and cause no end of problems, so I recommend replacing the fuel lines front to back with either copper or stainless steel. The needle valves in the SU carbs wear and stick, causing flooding. I recommend replacing the needles and seats with Grose Jet valves instead. They use a ball bearing and spherical seat instead of conical needle and seat, and are fantastic! Use synthetic motor oil (20 W 50) in your engine but only AFTER it is FULLY broken in on regular motor oil. Use of synthetic oil prevents wear, and promotes easier starts. Use of synthetic racing oil in the transmission is also highly recommended for the same reason. Redline brand tranny oil is excellent. Use synthetic grease in the front end and U joint grease fittings also. Dont forget to occasionally oil the steering rack via the "grease" fitting. (Do NOT use grease use 90 wt gear oil), and oil the rear bearing in the generator (TWO DROPS ONLY) of 30 wt motor oil! MGA electrical systems are marginal because of the generator. If you need more power you can convert to a Lucas or Bosch alternator. I would go Non Lucas! (You do know that Lucas stands for Loose Unsoldered Connections And Splices, right? ;-) I would also install quartz halogen headlights, since normal sealed beam units just don’t give near enough light, particularly with a generator. Replace the thin battery cable front to back with thicker Arc welding or battery cable. It causes less electrical resistance in the starter circuit, so your starter turns faster and stays cooler. When you replace your plywood floors, you can either coat the new plywood floors with fiberglass cloth and resin, which will prevent the dreaded MGA floor rot, or you can fabricate metal floorboards from 1/8" thick (or thicker) sheet aluminum or stainless steel. When painting your car, use epoxy primer, and either 2 part enamel, or 2 part urethane paint (It is almost too glossy) , both of which are tough and durable. Stay away from clear coat finishes which eventually chip and peel, and are hell to touch up and even worse to remove. Replace all mild steel bolts, nuts and washers with non rusting stainless steel unless originality is important. Use ANTISEIZE COMPOUND on absolutely EVERY threaded fastener you replace, especially brake fittings and bleeder screws! This will make future work on your car much easier. Use MGB V8 bushings in the front suspension A arms, or alternatively eurethane racing bushings. These last MUCH longer than the standard rubber bushings. Be sure to drain and flush your rear axle and make sure that the vent is open, otherwise you will get leakage from the axle hubs. Use MIG welding for any patches in your body panels...You get less heat warpage. Use an arc welder for frame repairs, but tack weld patches in first, then go back and weld them in. This reduces warpage. Enlarge one battery bracket and convert to a single 12 volt battery. Two 6 volt batteries are lots of nuisance, and you have twice as many terminals and cables to corrode! Mix vaseline and baking soda, and smear this all over the battery box, and the battery terminals. It will keep your battery box and battery terminals from being eaten away by battery corrosion!In the transmission, second gear syncro ring is made of brass and wears out quickly. You can replace the brass synchro ring with a steel one, but you need a specially hardened second gear to use the steel synchro ring. If you have the money to spare, this makes your tranny more durable. The transmission layshaft also wears quickly where it rides on the 3 sets of needle bearings. It is possible to eliminate the needle bearings by custom machining a bronze or brass laygear bushing. The custom made bushing can be cross drilled to allow improved lubrication of the layshaft, and just about eliminates any wear. While expensive, these tranny upgrades make the transmission last much longer. I dont mind rebuilding my transmission every 15 years or so, and have not modified mine. Use copper nickel brake lines (from Moss) instead of steel ones. Cupro nickel brake lines are stronger and don't rust! Use nylon zip ties instead of metal ones to secure brake lines and wiring. They are easier on these components! Use Silicone brake fluid in your hydraulic system. It is EXTREMELY kind to rubber parts, doesn’t absorb moisture like regular fluid (NO RUST), and makes your hydraulic system last MUCH longer! Ignore people who say silicone brake fluid is bad! I have used Silicone for over over 15 years, and have not had to replace a single hydraulic component yet!! This stuff is miracle in a bottle! Use teflon based lubricant to remove rusted nuts and bolts. This stuff will usually remove the most rusted bolts! If this stuff wont take out the rusty bolt, then heat will be required.During restoration DO NOT throw out ANYTHING you remove from your car, no matter how bad it looks. Often, old components can be repaired or used for patterns to make new parts. Put all removed parts into suitably sized plastic bags, and label the bags with magic marker. Many parts look similar. Labelled parts eliminate guesswork. Order your replacement parts BEFORE you need them! Anticipate which components will HAVE to be replaced. eg, bearings, bushings, seals, and brushes. Take LOTS of digital photographs when disassembling your car. You WILL forget how it goes back together over time! Work SAFELY! ALWAYS wear safety glasses, and use solid jackstands to support your raised vehicle. Keep a fire extinguisher handy! If your car has wire wheels, use silver coloured anti seize compound on the splines. This positively keeps the wire wheels from seizing to the hubs, and the silver colour blends with the colour of the spokes, when it gets flung out onto the wheel! After all the time money and effort, PLEASE drive your car SAFELY and.LOTS. Cheers! Glenn PS learn to heel and toe, and to double clutch. These driving techniques are fun, and reduce wear on your transmission.



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Glenn

Best return-for-the-money mods I've done: 18V engine (w/ many mods), 5-sp tranny, cruise control, and canted the seat backwards to increase leg room. Long trips are a breeze.
Tyler
Tyler

The next time I build an MGA for street use I will use modifications that I have tested on the race car that work correctly all the time. I'm not into more creature comforts than the A came with originally so things like a A/C, radio, remote locks, automatic transmission, power brakes and power steering are out.

Cooling - Aluminim rad with pressurized expansion tank & 13lb cap.

Ignition - Pertronix Electronic Ignition, Delco Alternator conversion and Neg Ground.

Suspension - Derlin bushings all around. MGB front spindles hubs and brakes (I'll get flamed for this). 60 spoke wire wheels w/Khumo KH11 tires.

Fuel Delivery - Facet elect fuel pump. Filter before pump.

Electrical - New wiring harness and all connectors. Single 12 volt battery.

Hydraulics - Wilwood pedals and M/C's

Clutch - MGB pressureplate, front cover and throw out bearing and fork.

Engine - MGB timing chain cover and seal.

Final Drive - 4.11 gears w/orig gearbox ratio (twisty mountain roads).

Have fun!

John





JohnB

I forgot the lighter MK2 or early B flywheel.
JohnB

Thank a lot for the great comments as I have a good idea of the things I would like to improve. I may be calling upon you for more tech info on specifics. Now I'm not affraid to move away from stock fearing a decline in value. From the sounds of things my value should be maintianed or increased by some of those mods noted. Once agian thanks to all.
Lawrence
Lawrence

The one thing no one has mentioned above is converting to negative earth - more compatable with modern radios etc. Also less likely to have a disaster if an unwitting mechanic works on the electrics.

Lawrence, if you are worried about value then just ask yourself if you are doing the work for your own enjoyment or for sell on. If it is for your own pleasure then just do it. Nine years ago I started out on my rebuild with originality in mind. Now I have just about all the mods listed above and I love driving the car every bit as much and more than when it was original. If I ever want to sell it I know I can get it back to original if needs be.

Steve

Steve
Steve Gyles

I have not gotten as far as those of you who have drivable cars already, but after browsing the boards, here are the mods I am planning to implement as I put mine back together:

* recline driver's seat with wedges
* electronic ignition
* modern plugs/wires (NGK and Accel)
* Grose jets (definately need to learn more about this)
* K&N carb filters (I have none now)
* Silicone brake fluid
* Synthetic engine oil (eventually)
* Modern fuel pump and filter
* single 12V battery
* negative earth
* alternator vs. generator
* chrome wheels (have them) with modern tires (TBD)
* windhshield washer bottle
* radiator overflow bottle
* modern radio & cd-player or iPod dock
* halogen headlights

I am sure this list could be improved, but these are the biggies.

AJ Mail

Steve I think John B suggested it!
He also suggested an aluminium radiator
Although an aluminium radiator is less efficient than a copper one but for a competition car it saves a lot of weight!
Bob (robert) I am turning? yes I once owned an MGWasp!!

Absolutely right Bob. I was still recovering from Glenn's mammoth list (must still be snowing in Canada) and missed it.

Steve
Steve Gyles

Forgot one...

I really like the idea of installing a cigarette lighter (12V power adapter) behind the driver or passengers seat to power iPods, GPS's, map lights, etc. This is a good addition, and should have been on my list above.
AJ Mail

AJ, skip the grose jets and order viton tipped needle and seat set from Joe Curto. Many have had mixed results myself included,with the grose jets, and from reading this board it appears they are getting worse. I have a set from the late 80's in my MGC with no problems. The set I installed in the A in the 90's have been thrown in the trash.
John H

I beat you all. I put a (modern) tall blonde girl in the passengers seat. Best accessory available. Not cheap but sure attracts alot of attention.
Gordon Harrison

Steve
I'm doing it for enjoyment but I don't want to cheat the kids out of their future inheritance. Hah
L E Marchand

"""I don't want to cheat the kids out of their future inheritance. Hah """"

In about 30 years time there will be no such thing as petrol, oil reserves will have ran out. Your car will be worthless unless fitted with some sort of hyperdrive. The best thing to do is get your money's worth now and enjoy it!
Bob (robert) I am turning? yes I once owned an MGWasp!!

Bob (Robert). Do not know if the oil reserves will have vanished or not. However, I like your ideas. These cars were originally intended to be fun to drive. That is what we should be doing with them. My daily drivers are two MGBs, one a GT and the other a roadster. My MGA is being restored for my younger daughter. (The older daugher learned to drive on her 77B, which she will receive ownership of on her wedding using wedding cars tunbridge wells day, next month. She also wants my 68GT when I "no longer need it".)

The younger daughter wants the MGA, when fully restored, as her graduation present from college. (Fortunately, she is going for a double doctorate which will give me time to do the work properly.)

My concept is the body should be pure MGA, 1961, 1600. The seats should be upgraded, as much as possible, to be comfortable for long distance driving. The engine should be and MGB 18V series to provide the increased performance that the MGB demonstrated. The rear end needs to be changed over to either an MGB rear end, or have the gearing replaced to give the 3.9:1 ratio. Brakes and suspension need to be modified/upgraded to handle the additonal power in this lighter vehicle. A five speed conversion is an excellent idea and will make it a much better road car.

The MGA was a splendid design for its times. As such, it makes an excellent show car. However, for those of us who are "drivers" rather than "showers", modifications, especially those which keep to the British traditon (adaptive engineering with a stiff upper lip) seem to make sense.

If we should run out of petroleum to make "petrol/gasoline", I should like to think that I have taught both of my daughters sufficient that they might adapt their MGB and MGA to run on alcohol, propane, or whatever fuel is available.

There is a saying that, "Attitude is Everything". A world without being able to drive an MG, regardless of what the fuel may be, would be a world severely degraded and hardly worth living in.

Ken Purdy, an automotive writer in the 60's and 70's noted that there were more horses kept for pleasure usage than there were back in the days when horses were used as the primarly means of transportation. He opined that the day would come when other means of transport would provide the need of the population. At which point, the truly significant cars would, like the horse, be a valued rememberance of the past.

Should your prophesy come true and oil will no longer be used, I would hope that each of my daughters would find some way to power their MGs and would derive some degree of satisfaction from doing so.

Les
Les Bengtson

There will still be plenty of oil in 30 years, but precious few original MGAs.
David Breneman

Converted my 1500 to MGB front brakes with MGB dual master cylinder.
Lyle
Lyle Jacobson

Glen, I just read your long..long...long reply on this and I am very DISAPPOINTED on your reply. You had a GREAT chance to show us your stuff and you blew it!!!! After reading it NOT A SINGLE LINE RHYMED. This is not to say I would want the whole thing to rhyme, but some. I shall await to see how you do. Are you only able to do the rhyming in the cold winter when your MGA can't go out and you are snow bound and stuck in a house?
JEFF BECKER

Les

What do you have in mind for upgrading the seats?

Thanks

Larry
58A
Larry Hallanger

Headlights with a third filament for running lights and a LOUD horn
R. L Carleen

Would like to install a remote brake booster (servo) on my Mga. Can anyone tell me where would be the best place to mount it? There doesn't seem to be much room in the engine bay.
f camilleri

f camilleri,
Look at Barney Gaylord's site. He has information and pictures I provided It is mounted in the right front fender. This is on a left hand drive car.
JEFF BECKER

RL

Other than the Cibie H180 what other lights provide the third filament?

Anyone found a good source for the H180?

Larry
58A
Larry Hallanger

Hi Jeff. I guess I'm just a sorry excuse for a poet when nice weather finally arrives in Ontario Canada. Eight months of dismal weather take their toll on the psyche! Hot sunny weather prevails, and all thoughts of poery writing vanish, and thoughts of driving my MGA overpower my brain! Such MG cruising thoughts trigger the release of endorphins that create a drug induced high in the pleasure center of my cerebral cortex. Writing any type of poetry while on this pleasure trip is simply impossible. Of course, when cold snowy weather returns, brain chemistry returns to normal, and poetry is again not only possible, but probable! Cheers, Glenn
Glenn

Larry

A standard headlamp for a rubber bumper B or a Mini will provide the third filament
dominic clancy

bought mine through Jeff Zorn at LBCarCo
R. L Carleen

best thing I ever did was the 5 speed transmission from Hi-Gear. (Hi-Gear Engineering Ltd
82 Chestnut Avenue, Mickleover, Derby, DE3 9FS, UK
Telephone/Fax: +44 (0) 1332 514503) http://www.hi-gearengineering.co.uk

Easy to fit, completely undetectable from inside the car - allows high speed cruising without sstressing the engine. Worth every penny. Don't fit a gearbox from a scrap car - get a fully re-con one.

I think the tall blond is probably the best of the other suggestions. Not sure about the phone sockets and the radio. It would be impossible to hear either with the hood (sorry you colonials - roof) down
Geoff
Geoff McGladdery

EL SYSTEM
I tosed the harnes and made my own. Using a fuse box from Nisan Micra (not sold in US) I used all ten fuses and 4 relays. I used spacers and plates to avoid drilling additional holes in firewall. It hides nicely behind heater. Now I know where to look, if my tail light does not work. Wiring diagram will accomodate next owner. Led light with appropriate resistor will brighten your directional indicator many times over without drawing too much power, creating heat and destroying your bezel.
Martin
Martin

Looks like we ALL will suffer when the cold winters return to Canada and have to read Glen's poetery ( I mean enjoy). May Canada have a long summer and a short winter!!!!
JEFF BECKER

Cruel Jeff, cruel. lol, Glenn
Glenn

Will there be anything left standard by the time L E Marchand incorporates all these modifications?!

Steve
Steve Gyles

Seems like he could save himself a lot of grief and just buy a Miata. I hope to add an mgc roadster to my "stable" some day, but after reading about some of the "personalizations", "interpretations" and "improvements" undertaken by folks in this and other forums over the years, I'm going to have to be extra vigilant to make sure the car hasn't been "improved" to a fare-thee-well. I'm not a fire-breathing purist - my car has an 1800 5-main engine installed by a PO, and a factory MKII grille added by another PO in the 60s after a slight collision, and the radio from my long lost MGB. But the changes are reversible with simple hand tools, and despite a little extra hosepower, when you're driving it, you're driving an MGA.

David Breneman

Hey I like keeping my car as original (or original-looking) as possible but two modifications I would LOVE to make:

- Upgrade the seats to competition-style buckets but with even better lumbar support (inflateable adjustment?) and foam elements

- Dash rear-view mirror to include anti-dazzle setting

I thought I saw a Healey or Jag with one of those mirrors that would fit our MGAs...anyone having any ideas please share.
Jim P

Jim P:
$7.50 at Wal-Mart, "It's a clip-on." Fits over the stock mirror. It's a whole new world!
Steve
Steve Meline

I've seen the clip-on "panoramic" wide-angle rear dash mirrors (NYC taxi drivers all have them) but never seen a polarized prism "anti-dazzle" adjustable day/night mirror.

Steve you are sure the clip-on WalMart mirrors are the prism day/night type?
Jim P

I'd like to suggest a couple more useful mods. My poor '58 MGA has been extensively modified in many of the ways listed above, in the 43 years we've lived together.
I recommend a third brake light. I mounted mine on a magnetic base which sits on the tonneau panel just inside the rear window (I have the hardtop on all the time). I think it protects from the dork in the Lincoln Agitator who might swear he/she/it didn't see my puny little 1500 brake lights.
I also recommend a rear fog lamp. I mounted mine, a trailer tail/brake/turn unit with both filaments connected in parallel, under the rear bumper on the left. I think it protects from the similar dork who is attempting to run over me in the rain.
Fraser Cooper

After reading all the mods done to many MGA's, what would the factory have done if it had electronic ignition, same for the fuel pump so it would not crap out, more powerful 5 main 1800 engines, 5 speed trans....ect. After visiting the MG factory a few years ago and talking with some of the old timers who worked in the old factory the one thing that sticks in my mine is BMC was always tight on money. Some might say they were tigher than a crack in the sidewalk. Why did MG come out with a deluxe model with left over parts. They did not make that many. They just did not want to waste anything. Just think of what our MGA,s would be like if the factory had funds to do these kinds of things. Would they added more padding to the back of the seats to make them more confertable, make more room between the gas and brake pedal, add 12v sockets ( not cig lighter!!). If the old factory could see what we have done today to make them reliable and enjoyable, I bet they would have done it themselves. Who knows, maybe they could have sold 200,000!!. I think most people make mods that can be removed to original if desired. Just imagine if a English person who has an old house wants to keep it original, no electricty, and lets not forget chamber pots or a nice cold walk to the out house, no running water inside the house, and that wonderful thatch roof full of bugs ect. That house has been brought up to modern times, but still has the feeling of a old house and style just like our MG's which still have the feeling of the old car but brought up to more modern times
JEFF BECKER

This thread was discussed between 25/05/2006 and 12/06/2006

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