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MG MGA MGA - Purchasing - Part 2a. BBS discussion at MG-Cars.net
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MG MGA - MGA - Purchasing - Part 2a.
| Gonzalo. We haven’t heard from you in quite some time. Just wondering, did you drive an MGA and then decide that it really is not for you? |
| David Werblow |
| Well, the fast answers are NO and NO. I went to see an MGA locally, but it was not in driving condition so I was not able to try it. I am still waiting for the guy in north Florida to send me the pictures (in fact he had a car accident and broke his arm so he was delayed). So I keep reminding him... On the other side, I keep reading the forum to understand the technicalities of the car, and also keep looking out for MGAs advertised at the usual places. However I have still not seen any car worth going to see, either the price is to high or the condition too bad, but I am sure it will come up. So I am still very motivated to find an MGA right for me. I also registered at NAMGAR and got the list of people who own MGAs in the area, and contacted a couple to see if they know of someone selling an MGA in the area that I can go to see an try. I am going to meet some of them in then next weeks. In parallel I also went out last weekend with the British Car Club of Miami on a trip to meet the guys. Unfortunately none of them brought an MGA ot the trip. My big hope is a couple of shows that are coming up here in South florida. There is one in downtown miami this saturday and a big one in West Palm beach (Gold Coast British Car Club Car Show). I am hoping I will meet some of the owners and might even see one for sale there. So I keep looking out for one... I am not posting because I don't wanted to write rubbish on the forum until I have something really concrete and serious. I a way I am more confident that I can actually do the first filtering of potential cars on my own. I have now read a couple of books and like half of Barney's MGA GURU site so lets say my knowledge is better. As soon as I see something interesting I will post it. If any of you guys are coming the Miami way let know, I would love to meet you. Take care, Gonzalo |
| G Ramos |
| IAM INTRESETED IN SELLING MY 1961 MGA IF ANYONE IS INTRESTED IN THE CLUB THEY CAN REACH AT 352 860 0855 THANK YOU ALEX CATANIA |
| SANDY SANDERS |
| Sure, I am Sandy, I will give you a call tomorrow so we can have a discussion. Thanks! Gonzalo |
| G Ramos |
| By the way I have been talking to a guy in Who has send me though some pics and description. I have the impression this car could fit my bill, what do you guys think? Any comment welcome. From the pictures looks like there is no visible rust. The guy is asking for $11k, probably could go down slightly, but I still need to get if to FL from NC. See the pics here; http://picasaweb.google.com/gramosgarzon/MGARedOnBlack3February101106PM?pli=1# I am personally not a big fan of black interiors...but I guess this is not the most important thing. What type of cylinder cover is that? _________________ I have had this car for 7 years, I use it as a weekend toy. The car is an older restoration, so the last few years I have been working on a few things on the car. The engine runs great, the carbs have been rebuilt, It starts fast hot or cold, Idles very well. Have done basic tune up. Points, etc. transmission shifts and works perfect, Moss motors replacement parts were added new master cylinder, wheel cylinders and slave cylinder, new braded brake connections. new disc brakes front and shoes rear, stops great. All the chrome on the car is in very good shape, a few dimples in the grill. the paint as you can see from the pictures is showing its age, my guess the paint has been on the car for at least 10 years, right on top by the windshield you can see the spider cracks in the paint, only in that area, a few spots on the hood have minor issues. the dent on top happened when a shelf in the garage fell on the car OUCH, other than that the paint looks pretty good, After a few hours of run time the clutch starts to slip. It's been on my list to replace but have not had the time, everything to replace the clutch New Moss Motors parts come with the car. I have never been happy with the generator, It's new as well as the voltage regulator. Included with the care is the moss motors complete alternator conversion kit purchased last year ,have not installed. The carpet shows wear, easy replacement, The convertible top well it's back there have put it up when caught out in the rain, not in the best shape but works, always leave it down it stows behind the seat, In the trunk it has a new set of side curtains, perfect shape with storage bags put on the car one time. Tonneau cover in pretty good shape Rust, everything underneath the car is in pretty good shape, no issues. you can see that panels under the doors were replaced you can see where that has been done from underneath the car, one battery box is pretty much gone, the other I replaced just after I bought the car. The car seems pretty much origional electrical works well all lights turn signals, horn works but not that great. windshield wipers all 5 inches of them work, ____________________ I know that again this is a car that I haven't driven either nor seen in person, but I thought it is worthwile posting as it seems an honest car. Regards, Gonzalo |
| G Ramos |
| Gonzalo. I am not the one selling the MGA. I just forwarded the info that was in a news letter. Sandy |
| SANDY SANDERS |
| My 10 pennyworth says its looks a basically sound car for the money. In the UK that would be about 7K and would probably sell quickly. The main issue is the paint work as it is flaky and crazed in places. The trunk and engine bay should also be red. Difficult to tell from the pictures but one of the floorboard rails looks like it may have rusted through. If I was looking for a renovation project it would be quite a straight forward one. As an immediate daily driver for you it would probably be okay, but I guess it would not be long before you started renovation work, either out of choice or necessity (clutch). There are a number of non standard items, all of which are easily sorted and should not be show stoppers. One thing worth noting if you have a test drive is that it is fitted with a smaller than standard steering wheel. This is not necessarily a problem ( I have similar) but expect heavier steering than standard at low speeds - good biseps developer. I actually like the smaller wheel as I find it gives more feel and makes me part of the car. Steve |
| Steve Gyles |
| Gonzalo, Where in NC is this car? There are a few of us owners here and if it isn't too far I'd be willing to take a look for. I just finished a ground up restoration on my MkII. I also know of a couple other owners in the state that would probably lend a hand, so there is a good chance you can get someone to give it a first look. Cheers, Christopher |
| Christopher Wilson |
| I think this is your best yet Gonzalo and it seems quite fairly priced at $11k to me. It's a pity the shots from underneath were not more revealing but it may be he doesn't have access to a hoist. If I were you I would ask him for a few more pictures e.g there isn't one for the RHS of the car at all and the one for the LHS is at an angle and you can't gauge the door gaps and cill work too well. I would like a photo of a completely empty boot which is usually a bad area on these cars. Note that the steering rack gaitor (LHS) has perished and presumably the oil will have disappeared. A very trivial thing is the radio blanking plate being the same colour as the dash. It's surprising how few you see like this and to me it shows a PO has shown more than average care and attention. Also note the 'optional extra' style steering wheel which are certainly not cheap (about $400) and again shows the pride the PO had in the car. I would take up Chris Wilson's kind offer before you make any travel plans But I really like it......................mike |
| m.j. moore |
| Gonzalo, That car does look like it is worth looking into. Ask Chris if he'll look it over for you! A photo of both bottom sides, including the doors should be posted. |
| David Werblow |
| Gonzalo, I too agree this is one of your better candidates, given the price. However, ask about the top and side curtains even if you don't plan to use them. Also, note that the door seals are missing, carpet is incomplete, there is some kind of odd piping on the hood (bonnet)lip and the underside appears (from the photos at least) to have been painted over rust. There are enough things in need of fixing that I still think you can get the price down by a couple thousand. Use them, and please, get an MGA guy to look at it. Happy hunting! Gerry |
| G T Foster |
| Gonzalo, One more thing, (I missed the edit window) about the dent, find out what type of paint is on the car. That dent and missing paint will need to be fixed ASAP. GTF |
| G T Foster |
| The car is located in Fayetteville, NC. Any of you guys close to that? Let me know, if so you can go have a look, but only if you are close. The Guy is called Wayne Amstead (910-818-9118 910-868-1726) just call him. I was not able to get hold of him today, I can't be sure if that car is sold yet or not, but I don't think so. I say that the paint was in good condition, but it is part of my plan to respray it. I love the back with red or tan interior, so the fact that the engine comp. and trunk are black may not be such a bad thing. ; ) My wife doesn't like the black interior at all not the red exterior. Do this happen to all of you? Does you wife also have an opinion about your car choice even if she doesn't know anything about cars? I will ask him to take some shots of the areas you suggested and about the paint and other questions. |
| G Ramos |
| By the way, I call the Alex guy in florida, and he also has a red 61 MGA with black & red interior. We talked a bit, but all he really told me is that it was in very good condition. He could not send me any pictures per email cos he is no good with technology (sounded like a pretty old person). He said he was going to FAX me tomorrow an artible in a newspaper in which his car featured. He is asking for $14k. I'll keep you posted. |
| G Ramos |
| Gonzalo, This is about 2 hours from me and I have other business that takes me down there. The weather is keeping me put right now, we got another covering last night, but perhaps one day soon. I will give him a call and try to set something up. If there is anything particular you want pictures of let me know. My email is christopher(at)30seconds.org Thanks, Christopher |
| Christopher Wilson |
| Ok, thanks, I appreciate your offer. I just spoke to the guy and he said you are welcome to come see it. (apparently as soon as it stops raining!) He is also going to get me some more pics. He reminded me about the clutch issue. Do you guys know how big of a job in terms of $ or Manhours it is for a mechanic to change the clutch if he is given the parts? Well see what happens! Gonzalo |
| G Ramos |
| Gonzalo It's an engine out job. Depends how familiar the mechanic is with an MGA. About 2 hours to remove if you are reasonably familiar. So probably a 5 to 6 hour job. I have done it in a day at home without rushing. Others may have a view. Steve |
| Steve Gyles |
| Gonzalo, I agree with Steve on the clutch. Not a big deal if you've pulled the motor before and know what to expect. It will take longer for someone who is doing it for the first time. You would do well to buy a clutch alignment tool if the mechanic doesn't already have one. It will pay for itself. Cheers, Christopher |
| Christopher Wilson |
| Replacing the clutch is not a big deal; something that most of us have done themselves. As for wives, you’d better believe it! I have two MGs one a TF that she is always trying to sell out from under me and an MGA. She has made it very clear that I am to will the MGA to her—not one of my sons. |
| David Werblow |
| I just go the pic of the car in North Florida (Homosassa), and I am kind of disapointed. I think it is not in such good condition... http://picasaweb.google.com/gramosgarzon/MGAFlorida6February10214PM# Not sure it is even worth going up to see it. I asked the guy to send me some pictures of the underside, but judging by some of the shots, I think there will be some serious rust on the underside. What do you guys think? I think for the moment my best bet is the one in NC that I posted earlier in this thread. Enjoy the superbowl weekend! Gonzalo |
| G Ramos |
| The shot of the fender welting by the left rear tail light is a little scary. The chances are real good that there is rust in the joint between the fender and the body tub. That fender also looks like it has a dent or two in it. The chipping paint will have to be addressed even if you are planning on panting it black. |
| David Werblow |
| Prior paint over dirty surface equals blisters and peeling and rust under the paint. All of the outer body paint will have to be removed, at least as far down as the underlying paint coat, followed by proper cleaning, sanding, and repaint. Of course while you're at it you might end up doing lots more restoration work. Fenders and piping need to be removed to clean up underlying rust along the joint lines. One photo shows a large crack (break) in the aftermarket fiberglass front valance panel (easy enough to repair). Another photo shows severe damage to the rear valance, possibly from a towing chain being connected to the leaf spring (hammer and welding job at least). As noted, a couple of minor dents. Muffler in wrong orientation. Body lower trim strips not painted. Driver door not latched, (may be nothing, but suspicious). Wrap over steering wheel implies possible cracked phenolic. No side curtain stowage bag. No sign of side curtains or original tool kit. Tatty seats. Incorrect door seals. Missing door pocket edge bars. Missing grip on hand brake. Rusty shift lever. One detached control cable and loose wiring under dash. Nice carpet and floor mats (makes me wonder what they're hiding). A variety of non-original bits and a few missing parts in the engine bay. Engine bay not restored implies that the body has never been off the frame for under body restoration and repaint, so if you buy the car you get to do it. The Car No. plate is an aftermarket repro part, definitely not original type (could mean nothing else, but may imply lots of other things). Significant omission of any pictures of underbody and inner body sills, so if you would assume anything there, assume that it needs body sill replacement, meaning a full body restoration. |
| Barney Gaylord |
| About the first car mentioned, clutch slip after some running time implies oil on the clutch coming from significant leak at rear of crankshaft. That will also leave a puddle on the ground, and it is a significant pain and expense to repair. |
| Barney Gaylord |
| Well Barney, it looks like you have everything under-control! Thanks for the great analysis. The comments on the florida car confirm my first thoughts which are - Stay Away! Since I am not psycologically prepared to start a frame-off restoration, nor do I have the space or tools at home. I asked the guy for pictures of the underside to which he responded that he couldn't send me any. ; ( So that to me is just poor effort. Regarding the other car you may have well spotted something that I was wondering about. To me when the clutch is bad, it will slip from the beggining and not after 1h or running, so indeed it must have something to do with an internal leakage. He mentioned that many things have been rebuilt but not the Engine...which makes me wonder what the actual state of the engine really is. Seening that these two prospects are not looking too promising, I will just have to inject myself with some more patience and see what else comes up. |
| G Ramos |
| The guy in NC just send me though some additional pics of the trunk and door gaps which I have uploaded. http://picasaweb.google.com/gramosgarzon/MGARedOnBlack3February101106PM# Again, main concern would be the clutch/possible internal leakage issue. I told him that someone might contact him to go down to see it soon. |
| G Ramos |
| The boot area looks great to me, probably paint coated over surface rust but no sign of any holes. Door gaps on the RHS look excellent. Little bit of door sag on the LHS which when corrected might improve the bottom right gap but the sill flange looks as if it has been bent upwards for some reason. Maybe someone trying to jack it up there!! Still you're never going to get a perfect car at that price and I think I'd go for it. The clutch wouldn't worry me. If you can get it for $9-10k I think you would have a bargain. It's a long way to go and view but I guess you guys over there are used to the distances. Over here that would be like going from London to Glasgow and back just to see it and an overnight stay in between! Quite costly travelling. A lot more than the six miles I went to buy mine.........mike |
| m.j. moore |
| Gonzalo....I agree totally with Mike Moore ..it is a very good value car and much better value than the others you have looked at todate. There are things to do and the clutch will cost but if you get it for order of $10 thou or less you will have got a sound car.a small point to check amongst many other items...I cannot see any breather pipe connecting the alloy rocker cover to the carb intake filters. Neil |
| Neil Ferguson |
| Get the NC car, and maybe Chris in NC can help you by suggesting a mechanic there where the car could be delivered to be assessed/repaired. Then it would be all set when you made the trip to collect it. Not sure if you'd want to fly up and plan to drive back down in a car you've not driven before and with a suspect clutch. JIM in NH |
| AJ Mail |
| Guys, I appreciate your advice. But I was scared a bit about this clutch and possible seal issue. This is the email I got today from the guy so I guess I need to make an offer now or never kind of thing and take the opportunity; ------------------------------- The clutch concern had also occurred to me, this can be easily be remedied with a simple replacement of the rear main seals and a reassembly. These cars inherently leak and the clutch needs to be replaced. This is a consistent concern for everyone, if you are not seriously interested in purchasing this car - let me know now. If I have not sold this car on 'craigslist' by this weekend I am going replace the parts and re-list it for a new price. With a new clutch and paint job this car could easily be listed for a far greater value - this car has been listed at a fair price and accurately represented. I am open to additional inquiries about the cars condition and I look forward to hearing from you soon. ---------------------------------- So, I should go for it? Make him an offer and cross my fingers? If I do purchase this car I would not come to pick it up. I was planning to just get a transported to send it over (like $500 should do it). I guess I can have it repaired before shipping or once here. I will give the guy a call today to have a last discussion. Any final comments are welcome. Gonzalo |
| G Ramos |
| If it has the original engine in it, there is no rear seal on the crankshaft. |
| Ed Bell |
| I just spoke to the local mechanic here in Miami. He quoted me $650 for replacing the clutch, and $40 for resurfacing the flywheel (if needed). He said it is about an 8h job. He also said that if there is no oil leak out of the engine there should be no other issue. Just the clutch heating up, expanding and slipping. you guys agree with that? |
| G Ramos |
| Buy it, you can screw around forever, spend lots of time and $$. and never get one. This one is good enough, subject to a basic inspection. I have to disagree with Barney's raising of the oil leak issue; I've taken clutches out of cars with oil pouring out and there is no oil on the clutch - there's no way for it to get there from a main leak. Oil on clutches is usually from the transmission 1st motion shaft, and a result of either overfilling or a very bad gearbox, which will be evident on driving test. The clutch is slipping because it's worn out, and driving it slipping will eat the flywheel. Figure on getting the flywheel faced & possibly a ring gear, tighten all external engine bolts, replace all hoses & fluids, probably engine mounts. This car may or may not have a seal on the first motion shaft, I forget where the change was, Barney probably has the change point. If it has a seal and there is oil on the clutch you might want to replace it. It probably makes much more sense to fix it in NC than in Miami, I expect prices are a lot higher in Miami, and you can drive it home. You might want to go over to the MGExperience board if you don't get a shop recommendation here - there are a bunch of guys in the SE I know of who are both knowledgeable and helpful who are not usually on this site. FRM |
| FR Millmore |
| Gonzalo. Check for transportation on Ebay autos. I got prices from several transporters ranging from $385-$1000. For shipping an MGB-GT to Denver from west central Florida. You tell them when you wanted it shipped and a huge pile of bids will come in. The slipping clutch is just that,there is a seal on the front of the transmission that does leak. 6 hours is about right for the clutch change. Refacing the flywheel is strongly reccomended. Sandy |
| SANDY SANDERS |
| Reminds me when I bought my first car, a ten year old Riley in the early 1960s. Knew nothing about car mechanics, traveled 50 miles to London to see it, fell in love at first sight, took it for a test drive - perfect. Drove it home and the following sunny day we went for a 30-40 mile spin along the Channel coast - magnificent. On the way back,about 5 miles from home and doing a steady 40mph along a flat road I noticed the car perceptibly slowing down and yet my accelerator foot had not eased off. In fact the engine revs seemed to have no effect on the speed of the car. It came to a standstill and we all had to walk home - the clutch had gone. As I had no tools and little knowledge I got a garage to replace it - it cost me more than a weeks salary. I resolved never to get a garage involved again if I could help it. Which is just as well because no sooner had I resolved one problem with the car another one cropped up. British cars of the 1950s were not very reliable, especially ten year old ones. So Gonzalo, unless your space limitations are really dire I would spend the $650 on a good set of tools, buy a workshop manual, hire an engine hoist and away you go. You’ve got oodles of technical support here at the touch of a button which us oldies didn’t have decades ago. You’ll have to get your hands dirty sooner or later so why not start with the clutch. If you don’t fancy the prospect then I’m afraid you shouldn’t be thinking of buying a fifty year old car…………………mike |
| m.j. moore |
| Gonzalo What are your negotiation skills like? Why not make him an offer subject to him replacing the clutch for you. Cash in hand for him without having to respray and relist may be too tempting for him. Steve |
| Steve Gyles |
| Good call Steve, thats what I would do also. most dealers just want to move the car on so even if he is not willing to change the clutch, you may be able to talk down the price a little instead. Colyn |
| Colyn Firth |
| Well, guys I spoke to the guy and closed the deal at $10K. Wohhoooo! I guess this is as perfect as I will get of a car at this price. I am sending him $500 deposit today and the balance when he sends me a bill of sale. I guess I will used the money I negotiated to replace the clutch and pay for part of the shipment. I also spoke to Chris from NC for a while and he gave me some hints on what to look for while the engine is out of the car. To be honest I had not thought about buying the tools and doing the clutch myself, since I don't have the space at home (I live in a condo) and I still need to develop my skills. My thought is to ask the mechanic if I can watch him while he does the replacement so I know for next time. The other option is that I find an enthusiast around Miami that is interested in helping me do the job and lets me use his workshop.... I am going to order the workshop manual right away. Cheers guys! I will keep you posted on the next events! Big thank you to all. Gonzalo |
| G Ramos |
| Well done Gonzalo and welcome to the MGA world. I hope you get as much pleasure from owning your new car as much as I do from mine. My first MGA was 15 years old when I bought it, it needed the odd thing fixing here and there but it was basically sound. Yours will probably not have had the salted roads to eat away at the metal work like mine did. It certainly looks in far better condition than that old car of mine was but it was still great to drive. Changing a clutch is no big deal, I knew nothing about cars and fixing them back then but I figured that most workshop manuals were written not for mechanics but for their apprentices who did most of the work. So if you read the manual and follow it carefully, you will have no problem. It is easier to have someone to give you a hand with it as MGA engines and gearboxes are heavy, but to be honest, that is probably the only problem. I remember using a long 1/2inch socket on the end of a piece of wooden dowell to centralise the clutch plate, but that was the only technical difficulty I had. Just contact us again when you get that far. I would ask at your nearest MG club meeting and like this forum, you will soon find someone who would like to help you. All the best with your car Colyn |
| Colyn Firth |
| Gonzalo Many congratulations! I have followed all the positngs with interst but being a bit of a novice myself, I didnt think I was experienced enough to offer advice. Welcome to the club. You wont be disapointed! |
| Graham M V |
| Gonzalo...really chuffed for you...you have got a good car at a good price ..irrespective of how you go about fixing the clutch ! Congratulations...and you will find this car becomes a member of your family... Neil |
| Neil Ferguson |
| Thanks guys, I am pretty happy too! And more when I have sorted the clutch thing and I can hear the engine ticking next to me. I realise there are several MGA workshop manuals available (just looking on amazon). Is there any specific version you recommend than another? There are also ones calle MGA & MGB Workshop manual. I guess the classic one is the one with the with the white cover and the MGA drawing in black. I remember some people talking about some errors sometimes found in these manuals and I wonder if the later versions are more 'corrected'. I will also ask the seller as hey might have one he wants to through in. |
| G Ramos |
| gonzalo, As with Graham, I have also followed this thread, but couldn't comment on value or otherwise. When you talk to the seller, ask him what else he has for the car, and is he getting rid of that with the car. Sometimes it works, and you wind up with a good deal of stuff he would have thrown out. |
| Mike Parker |
| Just talked to him a while ago. He does have a load of junk including the manual that he will throw in the deal. That is some good value! |
| G Ramos |
| Well done Gonzalo! Welcome to the world of MGA! We are all looking forward to more pictures and your road test report!!! Neil |
| Neil McGurk |
| Excellent Gonzalo. I find that the original workshop manual is helpful (I have several copies and the later copies are exactly as the originals with no "corrections" but updates on later models) but that the "Haynes" Owners manual to be the easiest to understand with details of doing all the small maintenance jobs( I have 2 copies - one covered in greasy finger prints and a clean copy!)- it is still in print in UK and selling at around £20 on ebay. Hope you have a lock-up garage attached to your condo in Florida to keep your car safe - there are some amazing electric storms over there that will flood out your MGA ( been there twice). welcome to the club - cheers Cam |
| Cam Cunningham |
| Thanks for the advice. I will get a haynes too in that case. They sell them on amazon. Regading the storms, I agree...streets get flooded fast here, however my parking is on the 10th floor, so I should be ok. : ) |
| G Ramos |
| Great stuff Gonzalo. In the time until it arrives make the most of your evening and weekend spare time because it will be like a child and need lots of attention !................mike |
| m.j. moore |
| Hooray! If you decide to do it yourself, it wouldn't be the first time someone rebuilt a transmission on their dining room table in a condo. My wife is still mad about me rebuilding a Honda CB750 engine on the table a few years back before we built a garage. We want lots of pics of the car and the engine out, and the tranny, and the clutch, etc. after you receive it. JIM in NH |
| AJ Mail |
| Good job, Gonzalo, I know you'll have a lot of fun with it. I'm sure you know there's a NAMGAR gathering in Key West April 19-23. Try to talk the wife into going! |
| David Werblow |
| Definitely if the car is in good running order I will definitely come. It will be good to meet you guys. One thing in this forum is that you see a lot of car parts, sometimes a hand or two, but never the people in the pictures! So definitely will be good to meet you in person. My wife doesn't need convincing for any plan that involves going to Key West, i.e. the beach... ; ) |
| G Ramos |
| Some of us may not be in Key West--too far! But many of our photos are on this web page. Hope to see yours here too. <http://users.telenet.be/mga/MG-Owners-Gallery/MGA/album/MGA.html> |
| David Werblow |
| Gonzalo, Congratulations and welcome. Go to the NAMGAR gathering even if you don't drive the MGA. I've been to a couple of NAMGAR GTs without my car. You'll meet lots of great folks, and learn lots about your new car. Ken |
| k v morton |
| Well, the car will ship towards Miami towards the end of this week. Should not take more than a couple of days so I should have it next week at latest. Open carrier, so I hope it does not snow on the way to Florida. Its going to be the longest wait in a long time. Like a kid waiting for xmas! I was trying to make a list of things that I would like to do to the car once I get it go get it in basic running condition; - We talked about the clutch - I spoke to the local MG club and we are going to sort something out for them to help me...lets see how it goes. I am definitely going to invest in some good quality handtools and some of the recommended stuff on Barney's site. - I would like to clean the engine compartment and underside of the gunge and dirt. Any ideas how best to do it? Steam cleaning? Where should I take it? Maybe not a good idea until I take the engine out for the clutch replacement? I guess I can clean it properly once it is out, and I have removed all the electrical components... About the underside maybe it is not a good idea as the grease/dirt protects it from rusting? - The local MG club guys also suggested I take the car to the local mechanic for a full inspection, mainly they commented on the brakes....just to make sure they are good, even if the previous owner claims he re-did them all. - Suggestions for removing the dent at home? otherwise I will take it to a Dent-specialist. - I will perform a full inspection upon my first test drive and I will post it. - Any other suggestions of things I should focus on first? BTW I had a long chat with Chris, from NC and that was really helpful. Thanks Chris! |
| G Ramos |
| Hi Gonzalo You can download all the workshop manuals you need here, plus the parts list and the owners handbook: http://www.clancy.ch/Owners_Pack.html |
| dominic clancy |
| The link from David shoud be http://mg-owners-gallery.eu/ hope to see you here serge |
| serge |
| Thanks a lot for the info Dominic!. I will study the manuals! I will post a picture of myself with the car soon... |
| G Ramos |
| Guys, One last question. Any specific insurance you recommend? I guess I want to have an 'Agreed Value' insurance? What should I say the value is? I tried hagerty, they quote $359/year, but I understand it could be cheaper... Let me know your thoughts. Gonzalo |
| G Ramos |
| I also got a quote from American Collectors insurance of $225/year, which seems more reasonable. That is for no deductibles and 5000miles/year. How many miles do you guys drive a year with your MGAs if you consider them as 'drivers'? |
| G Ramos |
This thread was discussed between 28/01/2010 and 16/02/2010
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