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MG MGA - Moto-Lita wheel revarnishing

I got a very good deal on a less than beautiful Moto-Lita steering wheel. After lots of steel wool rubing down the aluminium, and removal of lots of old varnish from just about everywhere, I'm now putting on plenty of coats of new yacht varnish on the rim.

If someone has a newer Moto-Lita wheel (the standard aluminium disc, with wood sandwich on the rim) ... does the varnish also cover the aluminium visible around the outer edge of the wheel, between the layers of wood, or is that metal kept clean of varnish?

It's hard to tell from pictures, and I haven't been able to check on a real one.

Thanks. Richard.
Richard Ross

Richard

I am running a 13" Moto-Lita on my A (You should see my biceps!). I will check when I get home in an hour.

Steve
Steve Gyles

The advantage is if you paint it, it will stay shiny, if you paint the alum in the center it also will stay shiny and not dull. I did this on my alum trim around the cockpit and it still looks new. Otherwise you have to continullaly polish it to keep it looking new.
JEFF BECKER

Richard,

I'm also refinishing an old Moto-lita. Two questions:
a) where did you obtain the hub/mounting hardware
b) any secrets to getting the wood in shape before applying the varnish?

I've been using plain old sandpaper and elbow grease to remove the original varnish, and I'm not finished yet.

- Ken
Ken Doris

Richard

Yes the varnish covers the aluminum round the edge in the sandwich.

Steve
Steve Gyles

Same here, the varnish covers the aluminum anywhere it shows through the wood.
Steve Simmons

Thanks Steve ... very useful - that certainly makes for an easier varnish job.

Jeff ... my problem with even the clearest of varnish is that it has some colour to it - which I'm not sure is consistent with a metal finish - but I'm happy to be proved wrong.

Ken ...
a) it came with a hub attached ... but you can buy the hubs separately from Moto-Lita - abut £40-50 in the UK. MGAs take the standard hub, I think, so it might be possible to pick one up on e-bay, etc.

b) I've been using very fine steel wool on the metal, after using a bit of aluminium cleaner, and fine sandpaper followed by steel wool on the wood - fortunately what little varnish was left on mine seemd to come off fairly easily. I don't think there's much alternative to elbow grease. Maybe Steve's biceps would be better suited to this task!
The wood looked fairly pitted and sad once the varnish came off, but after three varnish coats so far, it's starting to build up that depth of colour etc that you hope for.

Richard.


Richard Ross

Comment:

As someone who spends a lot of professional time thinking about electrochemistry: It is a bad practice to use steel wool to clean aluminum. In the presence of moisure and oxygen (air) the imbedded iron particles set up tiny corrosion cells which will irreversibly pit the aluminum. (Plenty of both in a normal MGA cockpit.) When it is necessary to remove heavy oxidation or surface coatings, it is MUCH better to use the fiberglass scouring pads (e.g., ScotchBrite) when cleaning aluminum or other soft metals. If sanding is necessary to remove deep scratches and pits, it's also best to use Al2O3-based abrasives, for obvious reasons.

Steve
Steve Brandt

Hi Richard. I have found that, generally speaking, varnish is not a great finish to use on wood rimmed steering wheels! Varnish, even high quality, UV protected spar varnish seems to deteriorate quickly with constant use. Polyeurethane varnish seems to be no better. I suspect that a clear coat of automotive epoxy or eurethane would likely be much tougher, and last much longer. I intend to strip my wooden steering wheel this winter and re coat it with clear epoxy. Cheers! Glenn
Glenn

Looks like I might have to start again! ...

the steel wool advice does make sense now you explain it ... however, I have also used metal polish on the aluminium after using steel wool - which should add a form of protective coating, hopefully preventing any further pitting.

As for the varnish - I think I'll see how it goes this time ... will let you know how long it lasts. Not sure what Moto-Lita use themselves when they first make the wheels.

Richard.
Richard Ross

According to an article on restoring Moto-Lita wheels in the June 1990 issue of 'Your Classic' they are finished with hand brushed lacquer and a picture clearly shows the aluminum edge being coated. It further states that the spokes are not coated. I could scan the article if you wish.
John DeWolf

A scan of the article would be interesting ... much appreciated.
Richard Ross

I also have a Moto Lita wheel but a question...
The scew heads around the central hub have square recesses (Robertson)... is this original or were they Phillips head at one time ?
Thanks
Al
Al McMillan

When polishing aluminun start with a 320 or 400 grade wet sanding paper and proceed through the less abrasive grits of 600, 1000, 1200 and 1500. Finish with a polishing paste and then wax. In my opinion painting a clear coat over a polished metal surface in an effort to protect it does nothing but cheapen the look of the item. -M.S.
Martin Straka

I guess it all comes down to personal preferences. For me, since I plan to drive the car rather than put it on display, I am taking advantage of 50+ years of materials and coating research and development to make my current rebuild more trouble free.

I recommend using DuPont Chroma HC clear coat for the wheel. It is one of the hardest clearcoats available and will stand up to years of sweat and sun. It can be formulated in both a gloss and semi-gloss/satin finish and I see nothing wrong with coating both metal and wood with it EXCEPT that aluminum requires a chromate primer for paints to tightly adhere to its surface. Usually, for a clear finsh, aluminum is hard coated by anodizing - an option that is unfortunately not possible in this case without disassembly of the wheel, which would be a mistake if it is in good shape.

All in all, it might be better just to finish the wood with HC and keep the metal poished with SemiChrome - an excellent polish that is available at almost any motorcycle shop.

Again, just opinion,
Steve
Steve Brandt

Al

I can't speak for all Moto Lita steering wheels, only mine. I have just taken a bolt out of the centre hub to give you my answer. It is a normal counter sunk round hole. The bolt is a semi-domed flat slot, taking a 2BA nut.

On the other issue of varnishing, all I can say to John's comments about hand brushed Lacquer coating is that I wish I could paint like that. Absolutely flawless finish on my wheel.

Steve
Steve Gyles

Didn't the original moto litas have a machine turned finish?
mike parker

This thread was discussed between 11/08/2005 and 13/08/2005

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