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MG MGA - new oil leak

After a long day's driving day before yesterday, I've noticed a new oil leak. I haven't done a lot of diagnosis yet but it appears to be right under where the transmission connects to the propeller shaft.

A quick glance at my workshop manual indicates there is indeed an oil seal at that spot.

Is this something that wears out frequently? Any quick descriptions of the work involved to replace such a seal?

Thanks,
Tysen
Tysen

Tysen,

The first thing to consider is what type of propshaft and gearbox output shaft do you have?
See Barney's site:

http://www.mgaguru.com/mgtech/propshaft/ps101.htm


Mick
Mick Anderson

Mick,

I'll climb under to verify but I suspect its the later third one as this is a 1960 Mk I
Tysen

Always verify that the trans is vented, (diffs also) if not vented properly both force oil past good seals.
To replace the seal on a flange type trans. Remove 4 bolts from driveshaft at both ends and remove it. Remove big nut in center. Pull off flange from trans. Replace seal and reassemble.
R J Brown

Any tips out there as to how one can check the vent on an MGA gearbox without removing the trans tunnel or engine/gearbox ! I can only get one finger on mine from below.

Cheers

Steven
Steve Hill

Tysen,

This may help http://www.mga-register.org/

Dave
Dave

Tysen,

The seal shown on the MGA Register site is for the early 1500. As your car is a 1600 the procedure given by R J Brown is correct.
However, I don't know why you would remove the propshaft at each end, undoing the front joint should suffice.
Just one point, if you remove the splined section from the rest of the propshaft it must be replaced correctly, as shown in the Workshop Manual. It may have arrow markings to give the correct alignment, otherwise mark both pieces before separating to refit with the same matching splines (separation is not required).

Mick
Mick Anderson

On a 1500 slide joint gearbox, it's harder to remove the prophaft in this way than you think! The handbrake lever bracing pieces in the tunnel get in the way of dropping it, and the bolts for these are a pig to get to because the propshaft is in the way. Getting to the same bolts inside the car is also nearly impossible because the lower ones are at floorboard level, and are also obscured by the passenger seat frame and handbrake lever.

The prop can't be dropped far enough to retract backwards under the axle without removing at least the rear of these two bracing pieces, and by undoing the top bolts on the forward one to allow it to be swivelled a little out of the way.

I discovered all this the hard way when replacing the prop UJs a couple of years ago. In the end, having struggled with the rear brace, and then discovering that the front one also got in the way, I dropped the rear axle and spring assembly as a unit so that the prop could come backwards far enough to remove it.

It's possible that you have a little more space on a flange box, as what you have to get out is a fraction shorter - otherwise it's a big long dirty job that you are facing.
dominic clancy

This thread was discussed between 22/06/2006 and 23/06/2006

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