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MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MGA - Odometer Gear Availability

For all of us whose odometer (or trip odometer) is nonfunctional due to a broken gear, there may be hope. I just talked with Jeff Caplan at Odometer Gears, Lt. in Newport News, VA ( www.odometergears.com ) He would consider adding the MGA gear to his product line if he has a sample to work with. I'm at our vacation home for the summer and won't have access to my car until October. I didn't ask if the example gear had to have ALL the teeth, but I'm sure he would let you know. Jeff is very responsive and comes well reccommended by the Porsche and BMW community.

Anyone out there have a gear they could loan Jeff for a model? I'm sure you would get it back.

Any chance the gear is used in other MGs?

Perhaps an email to Jeff from potential buyers would be encouraging, as well. sales@odometergears.com
FJ Bruns

Scroll seal dimensions are here: http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/care/csm/mg212.pdf

If the rear main bearing goes bad the scroll on the crank can touch the block and bearing cap, and both will be damaged. Building up the metal on the crank and re-machining the scroll groove is likely to be more expensive than a good used crankshaft.

The block can be saved by shaving the bearing caps a bit (typically 0.010") to reduce the bore, then line boring the journal cradles a little higher (typically 0.005") to restore original bore size. In the process the seal surface on the block and bearing cap is restored, but pay attention to the fact that the seal diameter is not the same as the bearing cradle diameter. Line boring is relatively expensive. A replacement block might be a cheaper option, but then you may get into cylinder boring and new pistons.

A shortcut (cheaper) alternative is to fit a rubber seal to the back of the engine. I do not recommend this for minor leaks, but it does well for stopping the gusher resulting from a damaged scroll seal. http://mgaguru.com/mgtech/engine/cs202a.htm
Barney Gaylord

Oops, sorry, I posted that last comment into the wrong thread, so please ignore it.

I do have a couple of the 25 tooth odometer drive gears for the 1450 and 1325 TPM speedometers (4.30 and 3.91 final drive). I would be happy to send along one with a few sheared teeth for the model, and I might be the first customer to buy a new spare part. Since these things are scarce as hen's teeth I am not going to give up the good one, but I might be pursuaded to lend it out temporarily for a good cause if it was necessary.

Odometer reduction gearing for MGA is:
1450 TPM = 25 x 58 (4.300 final drive with 5.60-15 tires)
1440 TPM = 30 x 48 (4.300 final drive with 5.90-15 tires)
1380 TPM = 30 x 46 (4.100 final drive)
1325 TPM = 25 x 53 (3.905 final drive)

If someone would make a new 25 tooth gear they should also consider making a 30 tooth gear.
Barney Gaylord

I would be a customer also.
R J Brown

This begs the obvious question. What gear should he do first to get the most bang for his buck? Reading the web site, making the mold is not a trivial process and he is obviously in the business to make a buck. Is there one that stands out?

Or maybe I should ask "which one is in my 1960 1600"?
FJ Bruns

The turns per mile from the list that Barney posted should be printed on the dial of your speedo. For your 1600 it is most likely 1450 TPM which was standard for the 1500/1600.
Jeff Schultz

The gears are fairly easy to make on a lathe using nylon or delrin.
Berry Price
BTP Price

Fixed mine (two teeth missing) with araldite and a needle file. Let the araldite go off for a bit and then used the other gear to press a rough form in it, then finished off with the file. Working fine now.

Chris.
Chris C

This thread was discussed between 23/07/2008 and 25/07/2008

MG MGA index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGA BBS is active now.