MG-Cars.net

Welcome to our resource for MG Car Information.

Recommendations

Parts

MG parts spares and accessories are available for MG T Series (TA, MG TB, MG TC, MG TD, MG TF), Magnette, MGA, Twin cam, MGB, MGBGT, MGC, MGC GT, MG Midget, Sprite and other MG models from British car spares company LBCarCo.

MG MGA - Oil Change Frequency

For the 11 years of my MGA ownership I have always changed my oil annually. For 8 of those years I used mineral 20-50. The next 2 years I used semi-synthetic 20-50. This time last year, at great expense (£32 or $60), I went fully synthetic 10-40. I have only done about 3000 miles this year and the oil on the dipstick still looks brand new.

Is it necessary to change the oil so frequently now?

Steve

Steve Gyles

Steve, I raised this very topic on the Triple M website just recently and there were many replies, albeit qite a few dealing with Castrol R. I finished up consulting the (major multinational) oil company technical office who (probably predictably) advised annual oil changes(even though my cars only cover nominal mileages). Interestingly they advised that using fully synthetic oil would make no difference to oil changing frequency.
Barry Bahnisch

Barry

Was the advice from the oil company aimed at classic car engines specifically or cars in general? My previous car - a new 3-series BMW had its recommended first oil change after 2 years or 19000 miles whichever came first! In my case it was the 2 years, having 18000 miles on the clock at the time.

Steve
Steve Gyles

Steve, The advice was really to do with "classic" cars and, more particularly, elderly cars that spend a lot of time standing around. Condensation and moisture are an issue which result in contaminants being carried around in the engine oil (I have read that up to 90% of engine "wear" is due to corrosive contaminants rather than friction). The better-quality (and more expensive!) engine oils (that I use and are also recommended by the oil company) contain additives that combat, to some extent, the effects of potentially harmful contaminants and apparently are better at holding them in suspension. That said, it is all somewhat academic since it is highly unlikely that deteriorating engine condition is ever likely to be an issue with my "toys".
Barry Bahnisch

I would think that it would make a difference how your car was stored. If it is inside an even temperatured garage there would not be as much oportunity for condensation in the engine. On the other hand, in an enviroment with large temperature swings, there would be a lot of condensation. If bare steel rusts where your car is stored, then I would change the oil more frequently than if stored where bare steel doesn't rust. This is just a crude way of telling if you could have a condensation issue.
Ed Bell

Steve that recommendation on the BMW is from those who are bragging about how good their car is and who want to sell another soon. Oil does not know what car it is in it just obeys they laws of physics and breaks down due to heat and contamination, it can't read your owners manual.
Oil WILL NOT last that long it will turn to sludge, even the best. I see the inside of engines every day. YOURS WILL FAIL prematurely if you continue with this recommendation.
The longer I have been in the car business (34 years) the shorter the oil change interval has become for my own cars. I keep cars for a long time, Over 150,000 miles sometimes longer. I never want to open up the engines on the cars I own. To that effort I use full synthetic (NAPA brand 5-30 $4.89 per qt. made by Ashland/Valvoline) and change it every 2500 miles in my daily drivers. It looks cleaner than the oil in your car will EVER look again WHEN I drain it out. Oil kept in 5000 mile has already started to turn to sludge, a thick waxy smelly mess.
My collector cars, motorcycles and boat get yearly oil changes no matter the mileage. I changed oil in the airplane I used to own between 25 and 50 hours, max 3 months.
Change oil every 3000 miles or less and change EVERY other fluid every two years and the vehicles will last longer than you would care to keep them.
I have had a customer accuse me of being a thief because I recommend a 3 month 3000 mile interval as opposed to believing the manufacturers recommendation. So be it my stuff never breaks!
PS
I just read BMW recommendations. Oil change 16000 mile interval. No severe service recommendations. Arragant FOOLS in my opinion. They are advertizing here in the US free maintainence. Big Nothing! through 50,000 miles the only reccomend parts replacement is 2 oil chamges and 2 sets of brake pads.
R J Brown

Thanks RJ. This is the sort of gut feeling comment I was after. I am servicing the A this weekend and you have made my mind up to spend to save. It was the general clean look of the oil and synthetic oil qualities that I was guessing may give it much longer life. I run the car about 20 miles a day now minimum all the year round so I don't think condensation is my big issue.

Have no worries about the 3-Series. I did use the past tense in my 2nd post. It's been gone 5 months - since being shunted up the rear on our M6 motorway. Running a new C Class Merc at the moment with a 12 month servicing cycle. Nice motor with the AMG Sports Upgrade package.

Steve
Steve Gyles

Interesting - not really considered synthetic until now - and the post by D Sjostrom implies synthetic has an extra cooling effect as well - have you noticed it Steve?
Cam Cunningham

Not too sure that I would go as far as R.J.'s condemning of motor manufacturers, but I do however change the oil in my classic cars very frequently.
I believe that one of the biggest problems for oil is cleaning the carbon residues from the engine. It collects this residue hour after hour and keeps it in suspension until the next oil change. The longer it is to the next oil change the more residue is in suspension and the more "tar like" the oil WILL become.
I think it is safe to say that our old engine designs tend to create more carbon residue than modern day equivalents. Thus I think it would therefore be easy to understand that our cars would benefit from a shorter period between changes of oil.
Regarding my new car, a BMW Mini, I am more than confident to accept that the engine being fresh will produce very little carbon and so on this occassion I will trust the manufacturer and follow their advice. That said I also do worry about who is benefitting from the advice I am receiving and can understand Randy's concerns.
Bob (robert) Midget Turbo

Cam

I was wondering about posting a temperature comment on Doug's Oil Observation thread, but since you have asked me the question I will say something here.

In short, no, I did not notice any change. That said, I went from mineral to semi-synthetic to fully synthetic over a 3 year period. Any changes have been lost in the mist of time. Also, I have done too many other changes to the car in that time to be able to point a finger with any certainty.

However, in the last 2 weeks my normal running temperature has suddenly jumped 5 degrees to 190. This had me puzzled until my son expressed surprise that I had put a certain supermarket's fuel in my Merc. He declared it was common knowledge that it was crap fuel and gave poor MPG. I had averaged 38mpg in the Merc on the journey down to him in London. While there I refuelled with Shell and, using identical driving techniques and speeds, I averaged 41mpg on the way back. Realising that he may have a point, I then recalled that my MGA's jump in temperature coincided with filling up with the same supermarket's 98 octane fuel. I normally use Shell 98.

Could this account for my temperature jump?

Steve
Steve Gyles

Jolly Good Conversation. Here's an added thought. Fuel (Petrol) with alcohol added will give less MPG. If I remember correctly alcohol also burns hotter, but I must wait for someone to confirm that. So, it may be possible to run hotter and get less mpg with fuels that have alcohol added. Alcohol increases octane rating. These same comments may apply to other fuel additives that are used to increase octane.
One more point, some will note that alcohol is a cooler fuel because it evaporates better than petrol. This is true and does affect the incoming charge but I believe the burn temperature is greater. So, if there are any chemical engineers out there, jump in and let's get this settled.
Once settled we can get back to more important subjects, such as the value of jacks and other tools.
James Johanski

Steve, My son has also slagged off supermarket petrol and I always argued that they were the same. But he still buys the top Shell stuff for his 300BHP Nissan and I always go for the bargain stuff - maybe there is something in his ( and your son's) argument after all ! cheers Cam
Cam Cunningham

This thread was discussed between 01/05/2008 and 03/05/2008

MG MGA index

This thread is from the archive. The Live MG MGA BBS is active now.