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MG MGA - Prepping New Floorboards

I have the replacement set from Moss, which is actually made in my own town. So they were made here, packed, sent to California and then sent back to me. I open the box and find the packing meterial is my own local newspaper...but I digress.

What is the best way to prep these for installation.

As they come they are only bare wood.

Thanks for any advice.


Christopher Wilson

See here:
Look 3/4 down the page, last 3 or 4 paragraphs.
Barney Gaylord

If they are anything like the set I bought from Moss be prepared to do some serious whittling to make them fit. I had to remove material from the edges, reform the corners and re-locate mounting holes. I probably could have made a set from scratch in the time it took. I just used good quality primer and black enamel to paint them.
Good luck,
G T Foster

I took my floorboards and painted them black with a good quality sealer paint. Then I brushed on 8 coats of Verathane epoxy letting it dry really good between each coat. Then you'll notice that after they are installed, there will be a gap of varying width between the wood and the side of the frame. I used black epoxy caulk to fill in the gap, running my finger along it to make a good edge. I did this top and bottom. My floor is now 15 years old and the wood still looks like new. It seals out a little road noise and it makes the floor stronger for the seat frames. I don't know how thick the Moss boards are, but I used 3/4 inch plywood. That way it makes the floor even with the crossmember so the bump in the carpet disappears.
Dick Wallrich

First I soaked the floor boards in Thompsons water seal. I made shallow trays out of plastic sheet to soak the boards. I then mixed a quart of black paint into the remaining 2- 3 quarts of Thompsons water seal. Using a roller I rolled on about 10 coats of the mixture. The finish closly matched the original translucent black look of the floor boards. To install and seal the floorboards I used DAP waterproof roof sealant, an asphalt based product. (roofing tar that comes in a caulking tube) The roof sealant remains flexible and could be removed with any thinner if needed at a later date.
R J Brown

Great info, thank you.

I'm concerned about this fit issues though. The lastime I made the passenger side boards myself (about 8 years ago) and I only added these to my order to bump it over the free shipping and discount amount from Moss.

I hope I have not made more work for myself there.

Christopher Wilson

Just make sure that you test fit them and make any adjustments before painting.

Rich McKIe

I used West Expoxy with black colouring powder to protect my floor boards. I was particularly careful to ensure the edges were sealed perfectly. All the bolt holes were drilled prior to the coating & I worked the epoxy inside. I used marine grade plywood.
And finally, I fabricated a heat shield fastened to the floor board bolts to protect the bottom side of the floor boards from the heat from the exhaust pipe.
back in the 50s the wooden floor boards in my 57 MGA would occasionally catch fire on long hills on hot days. My exhaust pipe was not equipped with the stock heat shield.

Chris, I made my own and put 3 coats of Thompsons outdoor water sealer on them prior to prime and paint.
It was a lot of work getting the ole rotten ones out and I don't want to do that again. I got a new set of floor bolts from Clarks Spares.
Good luck,
Robert Peate

This thread was discussed between 24/03/2008 and 28/03/2008

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